Capacity of shell-mounted roof rack

[asteffes]

Hello. I ordered a 2006 Tacoma 4x4 recently. I ordered with the factory-option SnugTop SuperSport shell and have contacted a local SnugTop dealer about having Yakima and Thule-compatible tracks installed on the shell once it arrives with the truck (1.5 weeks to go! woohoo!)

The SnugTop dealer I spoke to is fairly well-known around here but they couldn't (or perhaps wouldn't) give me a very solid figure when I inquired about how much weight sucks tracks could safely support. They quoted me Yakima's usual number of 200 pounds maximum, including the weight of the rack assembly itself. While this seems safe enough for street use, I'm curious what your experiences have been when using these setups off-road. I would assume the additional vibration and shock could take its toll on a fiberglass shell and possibly lead to cracking or other problems. Could anyone share their experiences with this topic?
-Adam

[Scott Brady]

A good friend of mine has the snug top on his 2004 Tacoma. I have stood on the rack while loading gear (I am 230). BUT, unless you are going to use it to mount a roof tent, I would not recommend putting more than 100 lbs on ANY roof rack. I have seen many of them fail on the trail due to impact and vibration... The CG is effected, etc.

Just a few friendly recommendations

[Ursidae69]

If you wanta lot of weight up there, try a Kargomaster Rack. You can pretty much put as much weight as your side rails will carry. Kargomaster is a little pricey, almost 700 for a Tacoma. I'm getting a custom rack that is similar made for my truck to accomodate the ARE windoors. At least that is my plan...

[Nullifier]

I replied to you on the TTORA board.

[awalter]

I have a Yakima rack mounted on a Vista shell for my 2000 Tacoma. I was given a max capcity of 185 lbs, which is plenty for an axe, shovel, hi-lift jack, extra fuel and firewood. I would not hesitate to exceed this weight for a short trip requirement or hiway driving. I've had it for about 2 years without any problems.

Al

[mountainpete]

This is my setup... All Yakima hardware.





While it is very sturdy (I can shake the entire truck by grabbing the rack), I wouldn't go much more than 150 lbs up there. Which is more than enough for everything I would put up there (Firewood, Fuel, Water, etc). However, I have had 4 of those water cooler sized jugs up there. I believe they are over 40 lbs a piece.

My concern wouldn't be the straight down weight, but rather the side to side motion created off-road. You will get stress cracks with high weight.

Thanks,

Pete

[BajaTaco]

I have used a Wilderness roof rack, sitting on top of Yakima cross bars, fastened to the sides of a fiberglass shell, for about 7 years. I have had two shells, the first being a "Vista" brand, and the current one being an "ARE" brand. I have carried varying amounts of weight on a multitude of trips and expeditions, with the standard being a 32" spare tire, Hi-Lift jack and axe. Current "standard' equipment also includes some lights and a shovel. The equipment and brackets weigh in at about 125 lbs. and I think the rack weighs about 70 lbs. After adding the weight of the Yakima towers and cross bars, I'm sure that puts it at over 200 lbs. I occasionally carry a 70 lb. canoe, or a couple of mountain bikes as well. Sometimes I will carry some gear for extended trips up there as well.

• I have never had a failure of the fiberlgass shells.
• I have had failure of the Yakima towers. With my loads, they will fail after many years due to age (UV/weather exposure) or they will fail due to high-impact driving (rally course/jumping, etc).

Keep in mind that my Yakima mounts are vertical - mounted to the side of the shell. I am not sure if this provides additional shear strength where the fiberglass is concerned. I think all the new ARE and SnugTop shells have a honeycomb composite construction that makes the roof surface very strong, so I wouldn't worry too much if I were you if you plan to exceed the 200 lb. mark by a reasonable margin. Especially after seeing my Yakima towers fail, and 200 lbs. + of roof rack and gear collapsing directly onto the shell, after lots of bouncing and vibration, and the fiberglass still didn't crack.

[asteffes]

This is my setup... All Yakima hardware.
While it is very sturdy (I can shake the entire truck by grabbing the rack), I wouldn't go much more than 150 lbs up there. Which is more than enough for everything I would put up there (Firewood, Fuel, Water, etc). However, I have had 4 of those water cooler sized jugs up there. I believe they are over 40 lbs a piece.

My concern wouldn't be the straight down weight, but rather the side to side motion created off-road. You will get stress cracks with high weight.

Thanks,

Pete

Thank you, Pete, for your input and the pictures. I am interested in a nearly identical setup: a basic cargo basket or perhaps cargo box, a few lights (Hella 500s or similar size units) and the jack/shovel/axe holders. I probably would never put more than 100 pounds of firewood and water in the basket or box, but it is good to know that configuration can handle more if needed.
-Adam

[asteffes]

I have used a Wilderness roof rack, sitting on top of Yakima cross bars, fastened to the sides of a fiberglass shell, for about 7 years. I have had two shells, the first being a "Vista" brand, and the current one being an "ARE" brand. I have carried varying amounts of weight on a multitude of trips and expeditions, with the standard being a 32" spare tire, Hi-Lift jack and axe. Current "standard' equipment also includes some lights and a shovel. The equipment and brackets weigh in at about 125 lbs. and I think the rack weighs about 70 lbs. After adding the weight of the Yakima towers and cross bars, I'm sure that puts it at over 200 lbs. I occasionally carry a 70 lb. canoe, or a couple of mountain bikes as well. Sometimes I will carry some gear for extended trips up there as well.

• I have never had a failure of the fiberlgass shells.
• I have had failure of the Yakima towers. With my loads, they will fail after many years due to age (UV/weather exposure) or they will fail due to high-impact driving (rally course/jumping, etc).

Keep in mind that my Yakima mounts are vertical - mounted to the side of the shell. I am not sure if this provides additional shear strength where the fiberglass is concerned. I think all the new ARE and SnugTop shells have a honeycomb composite construction that makes the roof surface very strong, so I wouldn't worry too much if I were you if you plan to exceed the 200 lb. mark by a reasonable margin. Especially after seeing my Yakima towers fail, and 200 lbs. + of roof rack and gear collapsing directly onto the shell, after lots of bouncing and vibration, and the fiberglass still didn't crack.

Thank you, Chris. You might not remember but I emailed you awhile back about your front/rear locking differential page. Anyway, I really like your setup. For heavy-duty use like you see it makes a lot of sense. I'm not sure the shell I ordered with my truck will accomodate the towers mounted to the sides as yours are. It does sound like the top-mounted tracks will survive the use I would subject them to.
-Adam

[BajaTaco]

Thank you, Chris. You might not remember but I emailed you awhile back about your front/rear locking differential page. Anyway, I really like your setup. For heavy-duty use like you see it makes a lot of sense. I'm not sure the shell I ordered with my truck will accomodate the towers mounted to the sides as yours are. It does sound like the top-mounted tracks will survive the use I would subject them to.
-Adam

Hi Adam,

Ahhh, now I know who you are

Yes, I think you will do just fine with the top track system. In fact, I would have gone that route myself with the ARE shell, had it not been for the fact that I already had the Yakima tower system, and I knew the shell would be safe with the side brackets. I think the top tracks looks a lot cleaner, and save you from having to mess with drilling the shell, etc. They will also keep the rack lower (which is very good). The only possible advantage that the crossbars may have is ease of removal of the basket, ease of running straps and bungees under the rack floor, keeping softer items (like bags) off the painted roof, and allowing easy washing/waxing of the roof.

Pete's type of mounting towers still retain just about all of these advantages while still using the top tracks.