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Thread: Project: Doitall Dodge

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Northern Utah
    Posts
    1,259
    Quote Originally Posted by Metcalf View Post
    I am still considering what locker to install. I have a lead on that eaton no-spin which would be next to nothing. I don't know if I want a detroit style diff or not. If its cheap enough I can always try it and if I don't like it change it in the future.
    You could run the No-Spin with the Eaton shafts, but why downgrade to a course 10 spline? I think the Eaton HO72's are cool in the fact that they have a drop out third member, removable rear cover, large R&P and are tons lighter than the 14 bolt that replaced it. Not sure on housing strenght, but it might be worth using the whole axle. In the long run you could just upgrade to 14 bolt shafts and the Detroit side gears and have a 35 spl. Eaton. Might get a few double takes with that under a Dodge

    http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...ighlight=eaton

    http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...ighlight=eaton

    http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...ighlight=eaton
    91- F350 CC - 7.3-IDI IH diesel - ATS Turbocharger - ZF 5speed - 1981 Four Wheel Camper
    79- Toyota Hilux 20R 4x4.

    My Gypsy wagon buildup: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=38047

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Northern Utah
    Posts
    1,259
    Quote Originally Posted by Metcalf View Post
    Heck, I can always just weld up the open carrier for a bit? I should just pony up and buy ARBs for it front and back but that might require a reckless night with to much sippin' Tequila and the credit card.
    I'm not against welded diffs, but with the wieght of those tires and a shell packed with gear it is going to be brutal at best
    91- F350 CC - 7.3-IDI IH diesel - ATS Turbocharger - ZF 5speed - 1981 Four Wheel Camper
    79- Toyota Hilux 20R 4x4.

    My Gypsy wagon buildup: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=38047

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwest Colorado
    Posts
    2,855
    I thought about going the eaton route. The biggest downside is the width. They are a little narrower than even the stock rear axle. You can make some SRW 14-bolt hubs work on an eaton rear end but it takes some machine work on the spindles. The bearings for the eaton rear ends are also getting to be pretty rare and/or expensive. Not that they go out that often, but if they did in the middle of nowhere you might be up a creek.

    The eaton should have 17 spline shafts if I remember right, and I haven't heard of too many people breaking those...so is it really that big of a deal changing from the 30 spline 14-bolt stuff?? The only reason why I would run the eaton shafts and locker is for the cost aspect....I might be able to get them for like $50 locally. Again...don't know if I want a detroit in the back but for that kind of cost it might be worth the test.

    The 14-bolt stuff is a dime a dozen. Parts are also super easy to find. They are also 67" wide which is perfect for my truck. The only real cost I am going to have in the thing is the 1410 yoke.

  4. #94
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Canada eh
    Posts
    10

    Default sweet project

    Heard of this project going on through dieseltruckresource.com, thought i'd register here and watch your progress. Props on all the hard work you've put into that ole girl, cant wait to see the finished result.

    Cheers

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    240
    Quote Originally Posted by Metcalf View Post
    . The bearings for the eaton rear ends are also getting to be pretty rare and/or expensive. Not that they go out that often, but if they did in the middle of nowhere you might be up a creek.
    you could buy a couple and keep one in the truck with you. The pics of your worked fenders look great. Does the rear look like you need tubs?

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwest Colorado
    Posts
    2,855
    The eaton bearing is like $250 a pop last time I checked. They are great rear ends, but I don't really see a huge advantage over the 14-bolt. Width being the biggest disadvantage vs the 14-bolt.

    Yes. It looks like the rear wheel tubs are going to need to be pushed toward the center of the truck a bit. I may go all the way to the frame and then have enough room to outboard the shocks with some kind of hoop tucked into the tub.

    Sadly not much going on this week. I am trying to get ready for moab. I did stop and get some poster board to make templates for the inner fender sections.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    240
    cool! I cant wait to see the fenders when they are done! are you going to try to make the rear tubs look "stock" too? it would be neat to see, but i dont want to make you work any harder than you planned.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwest Colorado
    Posts
    2,855
    I don't know what I am going to do with the rear tubs in the bed. Mine are pretty hammered an I am leaning toward just building some new ones. Depending on where I can cut them I may just add a section to them. Don't know for sure yet. I need to get the outer fenders done first, then I can do the tubs once I get the tires on and see how much room I need in the rear.

    The bed of the truck is getting a sleeping/storage platform so you won't really be able to see the tubs....

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    The Nanny State
    Posts
    5,756
    Shave some weight, hang the bedsides on a simple structure and toss in one of those plastic bedliners, also supported by a/the simple structure?

    This might be viable if carrying real weight (firewood, engines, etc.) isn't in the plan.
    I used to swerve around my hallucinations, now I drive right through them.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    2,080
    Sweet rig!
    '92 Range Rover
    '93 Range Rover LWB
    '71 Mercedes 220 Diesel - The daily Beast

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