Project: Doitall Dodge

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Thanks, that is definately what this project is all about.

The other thing i like about this truck is that everything is rebuildable... wheel bearings, brakes, etc. Also, it uses parts that are common across a broad range of trucks. The np205, dana 60 front,and dana 70 rear have been used by all the big 3 through there 70s and 80s truck line. That makes finding parts in the outback of beyond a little more likely.
 

BlueBomber

Adventurer
ok, to answer a few questions. covering the jeep and lowering it on the trailer will help. i would get a cheap-o tarp from the hardware store and see if i can find some spare tires and wheels for the jeep. regular street tires could work. but i would look for the small spare tires that are usually on newer stuff. that would make the jeep much lower while you tow it, then when you get where you're going you can just swap wheels to your off-road tires (not the only way to lower it, just an idea i had). i was also looking into making a removable front air dam for my truck. just an air dam from the junkyard and a few wing-nuts. i think i could get a few more MPG's from my truck, and have it come off in a few minutes for clearence.
as for more power, i know nothing about diesels. sorry. keep the updates going, i love your truck.:drool:

edit.... i'm currently making a bed cover from a sheet of plastic, the kind you put on your roof when you have a leak (like this http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&productId=100651795&N=10000003+90327). im still working on how to secure it. and no i didnt pay $150, im using something alot cheaper that my dad had in his shed from when their rood did leak. like i said before, just an idea i had.
 
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Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Well its time to get going again on this thing....

The list of little things has been a long tedious one, not the fun make a huge difference in how the truck looks kinda stuff....

-I changed the oil. 3 gallons is just enough to get it to the middle of the 'safe' zone on the dipstick! Heck, I think the filter held more oil than the girlfriends Jetta!

-I found and fixed a really annoying noise coming for the front end. It took a while to find but it ended up being a brake pad slightly, though not all the time, rubbing on the squealers.

-I also removed those stupid chrome hob cover things from the front wheels. I hate those things. You can't feel the bearing hub to see if its warm, cold, or too hot. That is a VERY good indicator for wheel bearing condition. I still need to rip the rear ones out.

-I replaced the last leaking seal under the truck that I could find. It shouldn't leak anything anymore. For my friends that are reading...yet I think I own a vehicle that doesn't leak! It was the rear output seal on the transfer case.

-I finally un-bolted the goose neck hitch in the bed. I won't be needing it so all that nice 1/2" thick steel is going to make the main frame brackets/clevis mounts/recovery points for my front and rear bumpers that are coming.

-I cut a patch panel out of the inside of the old tailgate to fill the hole left under the goose neck hitch in the bed. I think I can get it welded up good enough that I can spray some bedliner over it.

-I also made a nice little adapter sleeve for a new air cleaner project I have coming up....

And last but not least I started laying out and modifying the new front passenger side fender. I am lengthening the fenders so that I can run around a 37" tire with chains if needed without adding any more suspension lift to the truck. I hope it will also really set the truck off from stock. Its going to be a lot of work but I think it will be really cool when its done.

IMAG0008.jpg


This is the outside of the fender. I am lengthening the fender a total of 6 inches, 3" front and back. I will be adding two new sections of fender lip so that I can keep at least one of the inner fender bolts in the stock location. I hope this will help me rebuild the inner fenders easier.

IMAG0009.jpg


This are area in the middle is where the one top bolt is for the inner fender.

IMAG0010.jpg


This is a little better detail of the front fender section, this is the easy one.
The bottom of the front corner of the fender is also getting bobbed down for a little more clearance. The new front bumper will also wrap around and provide protection in this area. The new bumper will be shorter top to bottom than this section....that's why its getting cut. More clearance overall.

IMAG0011.jpg


The backside of the fender gets a little more interesting. There are two stiffening brackets that need to be modified or repositioned. Not a big deal, but a little more work. In the end it should all look very close to stock.

aftersectioning.jpg


Here is a rough 'chop of what the new sectioned front fender will look like. Its not going to be a huge difference, but it should allow some 37s to fill the wheel wells nicely without having to have any more lift on the truck, maybe even a little less than it has now. I think the front could stand to loose an inch from where it sits now to level the truck out, especially with anything in the bed or on the trailer.

I am hoping to do both front outer and inner fenders in the next week or two. I am waiting on some new hand shear/nibbler things to make some of the cuts a lot easier and efficient. I have to do a lot of sections on the truck! There are about 8 planed right now. The one on the front of the drivers side rear with the gas door should be really fun! That is going to have to have a dog leg in the section!

I try and do a little every day.
 

1speed

Explorer
I'm glad you are practicing on your fenders. When I wear out my new 35's I want to go to 37's and you can do mine. :sombrero: I wanted 37's this time but I was afraid they would rub and with everything I have planned for my truck right now I didn't want to tackle that if they did rub.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Slow progress is still progress....

I still didn't get my shear/nibbler things in the mail, but I didn't want to waste the weekend by not working on the truck.

I was able to start cutting on my loose front fender that was in the my previous post. I was able to get the front section done by using only a jig saw, a cut off wheel, and a cordless drill.

IMAG0012.jpg


I was able to get the section out cleanly without too much fuss. I was able to use the marker light hole to start the vertical cuts.

IMAG0013.jpg


Once I made a few small holes to form a slot to start the jig saw I as able to make the horizontal cut along the top cleanly. A small slice up on the 'do not remove' section that has the reference bolt for the inner fender, and I was able to remove the panel.

IMAG0014.jpg


Magnets are your friend! Ace hardware has a nice selection. I picked up a bunch for like $5-8. They allow you to re-install the panel in the position it needs to be in for welding. They also allow you to see the lineup before you weld and work on any problem areas.

IMAG0017.jpg


This morning I got everything into the garage. I was so not working on the living room floor last night with the SO being out of town :) I got the low edge of the fender off. That required the cut off wheel on the grinder to work through a double thick area where there is a stiffing bracket along the front lower edge. Here is the panel in its new position, this time with the edges sanded down to bare metal for the welding. A worn down flap wheel on the grinder and a light touch works great for that! I had to fix a few areas that where off a little bit, but the magnets really make it easy to do modifications like that. I had to clean up one corner with a file and smooth out the horizontal line. I got it pretty dang close with the jig saw!

IMAG0018.jpg


Here is the panel tack welded into place. I use .025 wire for this with c25. The secret is taking your time and moving around on the panel as much as you can. You don't want to try and run a bead on butt welded sheet metal!

IMAG0019.jpg


tack-move-tack-move-tack-move-tack-move-tack-move-tack.

I try and move at least 6" or move between tacks. This seems to keep the metal cooler and helps oil canning and down pull. I would rather have it low than high though.

IMAG0020.jpg


After I got the panel welded in enough. IE I needed to move on before I burned through in any more places. I had a few thin sections that had about a 1/16" gap that where being a pain. I couldn't find my copper/brass backing plate anywhere, so I decided to work on the low edge of the fender.

I didn't want to just leave a cut edge on the lower part of the fender. I wanted a nice smooth edge. I started by cutting the corner with a pair of tin snips.

IMAG0021.jpg


After that with a pair of flange pliers I was able to work the edge over with a little help from a hammer and a block. In the front portion I had to feather cut the edge because to the compound angle. I had to make some little pie cuts with the tin snips to get everything to line up ok. I made a few little mistakes but it turned out pretty well. This will all be behind the new front bumper anyways. All the little pie cuts and tabs will get welded together also. This detail made the front fender a lot more rigid after I cut it all apart.

IMAG0023.jpg


So here is how far I got today. The front panel is back in and the lower edge is turned over. I was able to get the rear section started, but I really need the nibblers to do that section. I also need to make the patch panels for the lengthened section in front and weld that in.

This is the most complex body work on the truck. The front fenders are mostly a pain, but I think it will be worth it in the end. The rear should be cake compared to this! In the front I will also be modifying the inner fender to match the outer fender...kinda. It will not really be sectioned like the front, but modified a bit along the outer bolt edge where the it joins the outer fender.

When its all said and done it should look very stock and most people should miss the modification all together. I think they will catch the lower front of the fender being cut off, but the opening being longer....people aren't going to see that one right away.....
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Tires.....what to do for tires?

I want something in the 37" range that won't cost a forture, strong, aggressive, unique, etc.

What does everyone think about this style tire?

000_0076_renamed_16093.jpg


jbtires640x480.jpg


They are 325/85r16 Michelin XML's

They spec out to be a 38" tall by 13" wide tire that will fit on a 16" rim. Since I already have the 16" aluminum rims on the truck, and the factory 16" steel wheels, I am leaning toward finding something that will work with the rims I have. They are also very affordable. You can get them from this place...

http://www.100dollarman.com/tires.html

They are $500 for a set of five. So....$80 a tire. Yes they are used, yes they are only 75% tread or so, but for $80 a tire! Unfortunately he is out of stock right now.

Thoughts anyone?
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Dang slow USPS! My nibblers still aren't here! I hope they show up by this weekend so I can finish at least one of the front fenders!

I have started to see a little payback with all my little projects on the truck like the oil and fluids change. I have been driving the truck back and forth to work a little more than normal so I have been getting a better feeling for mileage. I commute about 50 miles a day to work. I have to go from about 6500 feet over an 8000 foot pass coming and going and the roads are 65mph all the way. I generally run 67ish all the way. The truck will pull the pass in 5th at those speeds. If I get behind someone slow I have to grab 4th and keep it about 60mph up the hill.

Today the truck returned a best of 21.7 miles to the gallon!

I don't think you can go wrong with that on a truck that is pushing 35" tires with 3.54 gears, the aerodynamics of a brick, and about 6500lbs of weight!

Stay tuned for more fender work this weekend. I am hopefully picking up a spare inner fender for the really dented side. I hope this will speed things along a bit there.
 

Darwin

Explorer
I know you are doing a lot of fender fabrication work, but I would be curious to see if those 38" tires with little lift will fit. Definitely keep the pictures coming!

I was looking at the 37" radials but I think I will have to go with a sky 5" shackle lift to get them to fit on my f-250.
 

Rot Box

Explorer
Awesome project! I've just started on my 92 CTD 5speed (reg cab, 200K and 4.10 gears).... RIP Toyota Hilux.

What front springs are you running with those 315's? Mine is stock right now and it rides unbelievably poor even on gravel roads. Alcan's are out of the budget, but Skyjacker 4" fronts, and a rear shackle flip with GM 63's is in order. Right now it sounds like it will explode at 70mph with 265's so 35's or larger should be about perfect in my case.

For an even $200 I just had my valves adjusted, injector pump timed and had the fuel delivery increased on the IP. It is honestly a whole new truck :wings: I would highly recomend you doing the same to yours. It starts better, runs smoother, runs much cooler and has a TON more power. Also if i keep my EGT's below 600 degrees and my speed at 53mph or less I will get over 25mpg.

You have probably already heard most of this but in case you have not: Fill the Getrag up with an additional quart of oil. You can add it from the top PTO cover bolt right above the normal fill plug this will eliminate any chance of running it dry. I use Royal Purple 5W-30 for the peace of mind. Shift them slow the syncros and shift linkage doesn't like to be hot rodded at all. It would be a good idea to install a temp guage as well if you plan on pulling some weight.

These trucks also have the 21cm housing on the exhaust side of the turbo--they are way unefficient. The 14cm housing ($150-$200) upgrade provides a lot quicker spool up which is great for offroad as well as stop and go traffic.

I would also flush the power steering fluid and replace it with a name brand synthetic and install a cooler. The engines weight get the fluid really hot and leads to problems down the road... I had it happen on my 92 and 01 at the same time this month--no fun at all.

Anyway sorry for the marithon post. I can't wait to see how this truck comes along :coffeedrink: Can't wait to get going on mine!
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Darwin,

I think the 38s will fit. I am opening up the fender openings by 6", 3" front and 3" back. Keeping the same wheels I could go to a 40-41" tire and still keep the same clearance on the front and rear of the fender. The top of the tire will be getting close at those kinda heights.

I also bobbed off the front lower portion of the fender and that is going to free up another little bit.

I do hope it all works out like I want! Its not a flex monster and never will be so I don't have to work around that too much.

Rot Box,

I have to say I love these old trucks too!

Awesome project! I've just started on my 92 CTD 5speed (reg cab, 200K and 4.10 gears).... RIP Toyota Hilux.

I wish I had 4.10s for the bigger tires. I haven't run anything smaller for tires yet with the 3.54s. I think I am going to throw on the set of 265s that came with the truck on the stock wheels to just get a feel for the difference. I would like to see what that did for mileage. I honestly can't believe that the truck is getting over 20mpg pushing the 315s with 3.54s.

What front springs are you running with those 315's? Mine is stock right now and it rides unbelievably poor even on gravel roads. Alcan's are out of the budget, but Skyjacker 4" fronts, and a rear shackle flip with GM 63's is in order. Right now it sounds like it will explode at 70mph with 265's so 35's or larger should be about perfect in my case.

The truck came with a set of 3-4" lift front springs that where made by re-arching the factory springs and adding a leaf or two. They ride TERRIBLE and are a little too tall in the front. I am most likely going to treat myself to a set of Alcan springs on all four corners after I get the truck to its final buildup stage. I think it will be worth the money. They are also fairly local to me here in Colorado. I would also like to have the rear springs built without blocks and perhaps a little longer by moving the spring hanger and shackle hangers to the next longest position by using one of the factory bolt holes for alignment.

I think 37s would be just about perfect with 4.10s. It just sucks that the trucks wheel openings are so small. That is why I am lengthening the fenders. I don't like lifts, but I like big tires :)

Honestly I would trade you my 3.54s for your 4.10s! :)

For an even $200 I just had my valves adjusted, injector pump timed and had the fuel delivery increased on the IP. It is honestly a whole new truck I would highly recomend you doing the same to yours. It starts better, runs smoother, runs much cooler and has a TON more power. Also if i keep my EGT's below 600 degrees and my speed at 53mph or less I will get over 25mpg.

I need to adjust my valves for sure. I think that would make a difference.

Did you have the pump timing 'bumped' or set to stock specs?

I haven't touched the pump yet. That opens a whole new can of worms for me. I have some engine mods planned for sure, but they are down on the list right now. The short list is.

-Red Oak Diesel injectors. They promise 350/800 at the wheels and +3 mpg.
-4" downpipe and exhaust with nelson muffler
-Huge Amsoil air filer with 4.5" intake tube and cold air box
-04.5-07 HE351cw turbo
-3" intercooler tubes
-Custom intake horn that I have designed ( lots and lots of flow )
-Pump Tuning

The truck doesn't like the 55-50mph range right now. That is a little too high of gears for 5th and too low for 4th. I need to find a better overall gear ratio for the truck.

You have probably already heard most of this but in case you have not: Fill the Getrag up with an additional quart of oil. You can add it from the top PTO cover bolt right above the normal fill plug this will eliminate any chance of running it dry. I use Royal Purple 5W-30 for the peace of mind. Shift them slow the syncros and shift linkage doesn't like to be hot rodded at all. It would be a good idea to install a temp guage as well if you plan on pulling some weight.

I did that already. It made a world of difference. My tranny doesn't like between 60-65 in 5th right now. I can get it to groan a bit too easy. I think slightly lower gears would help that.

These trucks also have the 21cm housing on the exhaust side of the turbo--they are way unefficient. The 14cm housing ($150-$200) upgrade provides a lot quicker spool up which is great for offroad as well as stop and go traffic.

I thought about that.

For just a little more money I think I am going to install the he351cw listed above. They are about the least expensive turbo you can get for a performance upgrade. They will support around 400hp without breaking a sweat. I plan on building a block off plug for the electronic solenoid port and shimming the wastegate. They are suppose to produce 30-35psi with enough fuel and keep the egt's in check at under 1000 degrees. They also use a full 4" downpipe.

I would also flush the power steering fluid and replace it with a name brand synthetic and install a cooler. The engines weight get the fluid really hot and leads to problems down the road... I had it happen on my 92 and 01 at the same time this month--no fun at all.

That's a good point.

I have visions of a ram assist system with the box in the 2wd position and crossover steering.

I have also been thinking about adding a hydroboost brake booster.

Oh the list is long!

Anyway sorry for the marithon post. I can't wait to see how this truck comes along Can't wait to get going on mine!

No problem. You should start a thread on your truck! What direction are you going to head with it?



In other news.

My nibblers are still MIA.

I found a nice fiberglass camper shell for $100 that I might go pick up this weekend AND HOPEFULLY in the same trip I can snag a set of those 325 michelin tires that I found used for sale! It could be a lot of driving this weekend!
 

jcbrandon

Explorer
...I honestly can't believe that the truck is getting over 20mpg pushing the 315s with 3.54s....

It may not be. Unless the speedo has been recalibrated, the truck thinks it is travelling more miles than it actually is. You might want to check it against a GPS or a known distance.

No matter what, you've got a way-cool project. From one full-size Dodge owner to another, two thumbs up.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I used a GPS to check the odometer and speedometer and came up with a ratio to use. I have done some GPS trip checks and found this accurate to within 1 mile over 200 miles of distance.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Saturday update.....

The guy that had the 325s never got back to me so my trip got but back by a week. I really hope he contacts me before next weekend. I was able to secure the purchase of a nice LEER camper shell for the truck to pick up next weekend no matter if the tires come through or not. Its the 1st gen dodge specific cab high camper shell so its worth the trip. That is unless anyone is driving out from California to the Colorado area between now and then and wants to save me the trip :)

I couldn't let the day go to waste so I worked on the project for a few hours. I was able to get a good ways along on the fender that I have been working on. My nibblers showed up yesterday so I had to put them to use. I was able to finish cutting the rear panel, removed the 3" section ( same as the front ), welded it back together and even made one of the patch panels. All that took me about 3 hours.

P1010230.jpg


As you can see I am not working with super fancy tools or anything. I guess the only thing kinda out of the ordinary is the welder.

P1010233.jpg


Here is the patch panel that I made and welded in.

P1010232.jpg


Here is the lower rear corner. I was able keep both lower mounting bolts! I didn't think I was going to be able to. I did loose one of the lower mounting bolts for the inner fender edge but I don't think I could have used it anyways.

Its amazing how my more clearance I am going to be able to have with a stock looking truck at very close to stock height! With a little tiny work the 3rd gen dodge trucks can run 37s at near stock height....now I will be able too also!

I wish I could find a set of the 325s! I have even been looking for some surplus ones.....no luck so far.

I have been thinking about perhaps running surplus 37" hummer tires and recentered hummer wheels? This would be a little more expensive then the 325s but still less money than buying 37s off the shelf. Tires are expensive!
 

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