Project: Doitall Dodge

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I'm pretty sure I am going to do the 4.10s. With the 265s on the truck now I just think its too low geared for my tastes. Throwing some more power in the truck will help some other problems and when the Getrag blows up I will look at installing an early G56.

4.10s are also not going to cost much if anything. The current plan is to swap a GM SRW 14-bolt with 4.10s in the back and pull a set of Ford 4.10 D60 rear axle gears for the front. Then sell the D70 rear and front 3.55 gears as a package. I will need to get a 1410 yoke for the 14bolt.
 

Rot Box

Explorer
4.10s are also not going to cost much if anything. The current plan is to swap a GM SRW 14-bolt with 4.10s in the back and pull a set of Ford 4.10 D60 rear axle gears for the front. Then sell the D70 rear and front 3.55 gears as a package. I will need to get a 1410 yoke for the 14bolt.

I like this idea 14 bolts are CHEAP! Although you can't go wrong with any 14 bolt axle you could kill two birds by getting the big drum version--they are HUGE compared to what our D70's have. The factory disc brake ones would be really nice, but they are hard to find for a decent price. Also the later model axles have the 3rd pinion support bearing that eliminates gear deflect. Anyway they are a big upgrade to the D70U, and every bit helps on these behemoths :bike_rider:

Do you plan on running lockers?
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
The 14-bolt is going to be a huge improvement for the truck. I am most likely going to do rear disc brakes with a set of K20 front rotors/calipers to ditch about #150 off the rear axle. The brackets for the 14-bolt are super cheap. I think you can get bolt on versions for like $50 shipped.

I am right in the middle of trying to find a suitable caliper to make a transfer case mounted disc e-brake. I really want an e-brake that will hold the truck no matter what! I may use the flange style yoke off the front of the t-case in the rear and redrill it for a 1410 flange mount yoke.

Lockers. Yup, I would like to have something front and back. I have a hard time thinking about buying ARBs for the truck front and back, but that would most likely be the best choice for the truck.

Some other random locker ideas....

A factory no-spin locker from an Eaton rear axle (pre72 GM ) will slip right in the 14-bolt if your use the Eaton axle shafts also. I might know where one is for super cheap, though I don't know about a full time locker in this truck.

I could always just weld the rear end :)

I have even thought about building my own lockers :) :)
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Suggest searching coloradoK5.com on the rear disc brakes topic. Getting a decent brake bias can sometimes be a challenge with caliper pistons that large.

Some Cummins-Dodges used a vacuum pump for the power brakes didn't they? I'd dump it and go Hydra-Boost if it does.

I have a set of those rear disc conversion brackets from Ruff Stuff. Unlike some of the brackets out there, those are formed and do not use long bolts with spacers. I also have core calipers and a used set of rotors. I never made the rear disc conversion on my Sub. PM if those are of any interest.
Were I ready to part it out that axle might be ideal for you. Gearing is 3.73, but is has the Detroit already in place and as of ~10-12k miles ago all new bearings, seals, and brake parts (hardware kit too).

AFAIK all 14bff's have the pinion nose support bearing and a removable pinion bearing carrier. They and the Ford 9" are the only two light duty axles that I know of with these features.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
My dodge does have the vacuum assist brakes. Hydroboost is in the plans, but I have yet to find any donors. I will also need to change the master cylinder for a disc/disc unit. I would also like to install a proportioning valve on the rear circuit to help dial things in.

I have been toying around with the idea of using a real hydraulic pump instead of a power steering pump. I think the heavy front end of this truck really taxes the pump. Hydro-assist is probably in the works with the new big tires.

I have to keep the vacuum pump to run the cruise and a/c / heater stuff.

Put it this way. The brakes can't get much worse.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Evening micro update...

I got to work on the project for a bit. I was able to get the inner fender roughed out and ready to install in the truck. The last section is welded into the fender also....

P1010251.jpg


P1010247.jpg


I also got one of the big tires mounted on the aluminum rims so I can do a test fit when the first sectioned fender goes on. Hopefully that will be this weekend!

It will be interesting to see what the mileage does with the small tires? My speedo is still WAY off?? I have to say its not really my most favorite gearing. To me, after driving around with the 315s since I bought the truck, that I am in 4th gear on the highway. I find myself reaching over and trying to shift up a gear. I think the 4.10s will be a good choice for my driving style...if its a little doggy I can always add 200hp or so :) Or swap in a G56 6-speed. I think that would be a VERY nice addition to the truck. I definitely think that 4.56s would have been a little too low overall.

I can't wait to see what the truck looks like with the big tires and sectioned fenders! Hopefully I will have a teaser pic up this weekend.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Well here it is....the first test fit....details below!

P1010253.jpg


I finally was able to get the first of the sectioned fenders together enough to get a test fit done on the truck! Oh boy did that feel good! Everything was a success to say the least. I am not done yet. I still need to fill in the inner fender sections that are missing. I didn't know what these pieces where going to look like so I decided to weld them in on the truck. I may just tack them and take the inner fender out again to final weld everything. We will see. I hope to tackle this in the coming week before I leave for Moab.

The tires fit really well in the new sectioned fender. For those just turning in I took 6" total out of the fender horizontally to make them longer. I was planning on running a 37" tires but ended up finding a great deal on a set of used 325/85r16 Michelin XML's. These are a TRUE 38.5" tall ( 121" Cir ).

As it happens I was also able to keep full lock to lock steering with the big tires. I may even trim the stops and clearance the knuckles to get a few more degrees. Here is the clearance between the tire and spring.

P1010259.jpg


I think the tire has plenty of room to move around. With the big Cummins oil pan you don't really get much up travel. I think even with my new front springs I only have about 3-4" at most.

P1010254.jpg


On the 8" wheels the tires also don't stick out that much at all. I don't know if I will keep the 8" wheels in the long run? I will have to see what the tires wear like. They are spec'd for a 9" rim if I remember right.

P1010261.jpg


Yup, that's a lot of tire! I hope these big meats will come in useful. This is suppose to be an expedition truck after all. Do you need tires like this, most likely not, but why not be a little different. I think these should provide a MARKED improvement in off road performance, especially in more extreme circumstances. It will be interesting to see how these do in the sand aired down. This big old truck isn't the lightest and hopefully these tires allow it to float a little better. The ground clearance under the D60/70 diffs will also be a big bonus! I still may do a bead-lock of some kind in the future. I will see how they do first. These tires have a pretty stiff bead for sure.

P1010264.jpg


Here you can get a decent view of the room the tires have to move around. Its not a ton, but more than enough I think. I don't ever really plan to make this truck a rock-crawler with a super flexy suspension! Like I said before. I only have so much room for up travel with the oil pan.

Hopefully I can find a clean way to cover up the mess in the front of the fender where the inner and outer meet. I am going to be building a front bumper that wraps around and is tapered so that should hide most of it. I would like to get everything sealed up from the inner to outer fender though since the air box ( and its future improvement ) will always be in that area.

So what do you guys think? Did it turn out ok?
 

brettf

Adventurer
glad I tuned in tonight during my saturday night SARS/swine flu/black plague/whatever recovery session. this is looking like a monster! awesome! :victory:

edit: and more to what you're probably interested in, once that fender is cleaned up, it will look stock! well, it will look stock to those of us not intimately familiar with the fender lines on the old dodges... which probably isn't many of us... I wouldn't notice except to do a double take on the size of tire on that thing... nice work!!
 
I am right in the middle of trying to find a suitable caliper to make a transfer case mounted disc e-brake. I really want an e-brake that will hold the truck no matter what! I may use the flange style yoke off the front of the t-case in the rear and redrill it for a 1410 flange mount yoke.

Have you considered using Caddy calipers? I am running calipers from a 77-79 Caddy Eldorado. They come with a parking brake, and will will fit all of the brackets that come in the 14-bolt disk kits. Kragen sells the calipers for about $54 each http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=5003&PTSet=A. The hardest part is finding the parking brake brackets. I ended up using the brackets from a 81-84 caddy. If you have good selections in your junk yard you can probably find them.


Picture of rear disk 14-Bolt set up.

reardisk5.jpg


Also make sure you install some kind of rock ring around the14-bolt cover. They are made out of thin aluminum, and break easily.

14boltwrockringandgaurd.jpg
 
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Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Thanks guys. The encouragement makes me work faster, some days its hard to drag myself out to work on the thing.

edit: and more to what you're probably interested in, once that fender is cleaned up, it will look stock! well, it will look stock to those of us not intimately familiar with the fender lines on the old dodges... which probably isn't many of us... I wouldn't notice except to do a double take on the size of tire on that thing... nice work!!

This is basically the reason why I went this direction. Its more work than just a lift or hacking the fenders, but I think it will be worth it in the end. The truck isn't going to look stock, but it should take people a while to figure out what was done to the truck.

Have you considered using Caddy calipers? I am running calipers from a 77-79 Caddy Eldorado.


So how does the e-brake hold? If the e-brake can hold really well I would consider going that route. We used a set on a jeep we built years ago, honestly we could never get the e-brake to hold that well? Any tips or tricks for that?

The 14-bolt will get a new cover. I am going to smooth the bottom out a bit too. That lip on the bottom has got to go! I will most likely build my own cover if I can find a ring pre-cut. I would really like to do a mounting ring with a built in o-ring groove! That way the cover could come on and off without having to worry about a gasket or messy silicone. I would also like to add a quart or so to the lube/oil capacity to help temps when towing.

I am still considering what locker to install. I have a lead on that eaton no-spin which would be next to nothing. I don't know if I want a detroit style diff or not. If its cheap enough I can always try it and if I don't like it change it in the future.

I still have a lot of work to do on the body before I get too ahead of myself! I would like to have the 14-bolt and 4.10s for the front shortly after I am ready to bolt the 325s on.
 
Everytime I test the parking brake, it works, but I have an automatic so I don't use it that much. The picture is older, but I ended up putting some washer between the end of the cable and the lever plate. There was some slack in the line, I think because I was using the wrong hardware for those calipers.

As for the locker I love my Detroit, but I only have to drive in the now and frozen roads once or twice a year here, when ever it snows. You can probably find a GM Gov-Lok pretty cheap, hell i just threw 2 of them away when I moved. They are a lot stouter than the crappy ones that came in the 1/2-ton axles. I was running one until I got a great deal on my detroit.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I am still leaning toward the t-case mounted e-brake. I want something that will hold the truck on like a 45 degree slope :) I just need to find a good caliper to use. I found one from Carlisle but am having a bugger of a time getting a price or even finding one for sale.

rt.jpg


There is also the Wilwood mechanical spot caliper but I don't know if its going to be heavy duty enough?

950202280.jpg



I have a limited slip in the rear of the truck currently and it does help, but this truck needs real lockers for sure. Heck, I can always just weld up the open carrier for a bit? I should just pony up and buy ARBs for it front and back but that might require a reckless night with to much sippin' Tequila and the credit card.
 

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