styles of California Pinot Noirs

haven

Expedition Leader
Check out this article in the NY Times about Pinot Noir from California. A small number of winemakers are swimming against the tide of intensely flavored, high-alcohol Pinot Noirs coming from California these days. Their alternative is Pinot Noir that is fragrant and lively, thus better to serve with food.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/11/dining/11pour.html

Chip Haven
 

Pskhaat

2005 Expedition Trophy Champion
Dr Haven,

Very interesting read. I have my own very strong opinions on the wines of California and their value on which I would be happy to expound elsewhere, but I can safely say that I am happy that there is a breaking of the mold. In my opinion it is needed and not specific to Pinot Noir.

As an aside, I have found nothing more refreshing while traveling (especially in arid climates) than mead vs. grape wine. I wish more people took as much interest in mead.
 

flywgn

Explorer
James Thurber’s New Yorker cartoon with the caption “It’s a naïve domestic Burgundy without any breeding, but I think you’ll be amused by its presumption”, hangs over my desk.

Wines made from pinot noir grapes have long been my preference when it comes to fine dining, and those big, alcoholic, robust, syrupy, over-powering Burgundian wannabes from California just never made the grade as far as I was concerned.

I was in the California wine business for eleven years as sales manager then general manager of one of the first wineries in the Santa Ynez Valley, and I’ve known Rick Longoria since 1976 and Jim Clendenen since shortly after that.

When we went out to the SY Valley in January I loaded the back of the Excursion with Idaho spuds and the appropriate agricultural paperwork. Our return trip the cargo was pinot noir (Longoria, Au Bon Climat, Fiddlehead), sauvignon blanc (Fiddlehead), and pinot gris (Eyrie…Okay, this is from Oregon, but it’s hard to find around here in this part of Idaho.), and I shined on any paperwork. There is probably some law against ‘importing’ that much wine across NV and into ID. Oh well.

I’ve been encouraged over the past fifteen or so years at the excellence of a few pinot noirs from California, and I agree with Mike Rupp about the fabulous pinot noirs from Oregon. David Lett, who died last October at the young age of 69, did the American wine public a great favor when he planted the first pinot noir in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. He was also responsible for planting the first pinot gris in the country.

One of my favorite pinot noirs—made in the light, fruity, non-robust style—is Yamnill Valley Vineyards’ 2006 Reserve; it just may be the best American example of that varietal I’ve ever had.

Since calamaridog brought up the subject of food, I concur with him about The Hitching Post, and I would add that just a couple of blocks away one can have fine dining at the Firestone-Walker brewery. I might mention also that I found enough room in the cargo space of the Excursion to stick in a couple cases of the F-W Double-Barrel Ale as well. (You ‘Toy’ owners try to haul that much weight. :wings:)

In addition to the HP and the F-W Brewery, we like Grappolo, the Vintage House, and Carlito’s in Santa Ynez; Café Angelica, Cabernet Bistro, and the River Grill in Solvang; The Brothers at Mattei’s Tavern* and Los Olivos Café in Los Olivos.

These restaurants are mentioned, of course, on the assumption that after reading Asimov’s article you will want to make a trip to California’s Central Coast and procure some of these fine wines for yourself.

[DISCLAIMER: I am no longer connected in any way with the Santa Ynez Valley wines or restaurants. :sombrero:]

*Mattei’s Tavern and the surrounding properties were sold recently, and I don’t know if, or when, the “Brothers” might re-locate.

Allen R

On Edit: Sorry for the font change. Error on my part.
 

Pskhaat

2005 Expedition Trophy Champion
Allen, I find wine like art and the definition of "good" is subjective. That said, in the last several years I am not finding wine of my liking from California without paying a high price, yet I find favor with reasonably priced wines from other States. Is California" wine marketing working that well? In your experience, is this a common statement or am I just too amateur?
 

Mike_rupp

Adventurer
Allen, I'll have to try the Yamnill Valley Vineyards' 2006 Reserve. Last year, my wife and I took a weekend trip to Portland and spent a day in the Willamette Valley. The first stop was at Domaine Drouhin. It was an eye opener, without a doubt. I thought their wines were some of the best I've ever had. As we were leaving, I asked the server about some recommendations for more wineries. He said, "you might want to check out Archery Summit; they are well known for their California style pinot noirs." All I could do was shake my head and ask "why?"
 

flywgn

Explorer
Chip, first off. I hope we aren't taking your thread too far afield.

Scott, you make a couple of valid observations. Yes, when it comes to taste whether it’s in wine, art, literature, cinema, or anything of that sort, “good” is subjective. There are, it seems to me, merits in observing and judging something within the limited scope of the questions: “What is it supposed to be?” “What is the benchmark?”

I think that wine producers, and growers too to some extent, have for centuries priced their products at what the market will bear and will often place a high premium on their wines only because another is getting more. It’s the “Mine’s as good as his/hers”-syndrome. It’s not altogether reasonable or objective.

It’s true that premium French oak barrels have increased enormously in price over the past twenty years. That which we purchased in 1978 for $250-$350 is now in the $1500 range. It’s also true that the prices of corks, bottles, and other associated materials have increased too. So, a $10/bottle pinot noir in 1982 would now be $50 if we use only the cost-basis analysis.

As far as the price/value of wines from other states, I agree there too. In fact, it’s a bit like things were in the ‘60s and ‘70s when California wines were advertising the fact that they were “as good as the wines from [read whatever traditional country you want] but were not as costly”.

About ten years ago a friend asked me to suggest a sparkling wine to be used for a wedding reception in New York. The request came from someone who didn’t want to spend a lot but wanted something that would be considered “good”. [There’s that word again.]

Thinking about the price/value aspect I recommended a relatively unknown sparkling brut from New Mexico. Yep. New Mexico! The friend was skeptical. I told him to trust me. I was convinced that he, as well as the wedding guests would be blown away. The brut from NM cost about a fourth of a medium-priced French Champagne and maybe half of a premium CA equal. The wine was a total success at the reception and my friend told me that everyone thought they were drinking one of France’s finest.

Yep. It’s all in the perception.

I don’t think you’re alone in your assessment. I certainly don’t drink fifty-dollar-a-bottle wine every night. Even if I could afford it, I don’t believe my Scottish ancestry would permit me to do so. Nevertheless, I do like having a few cases of fine wines in our cellar, so that when the opportunity arises….

Tonight, we’re having baked wild salmon with toasted almonds, Basmati rice, chayote, and steamed kale. Hmmmm, think I’ll amuse myself with a naïve domestic pinot gris for which I didn’t have to take out a second mortgage.

Mike, I like Domaine Drouhin too. I've been a fan of the French Drouhins as well.

Allen R
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
If delicate pinot noirs are your thing, sample some of the stuff made one state to the north.

Speaking of Oregon ;-): Older Rex Hill vintages (when Lynn Penner-Ash was the winemaker there) and Penner-Ash (Lynn's new label) are among my favorite for Pinot Noir. There are some very good Pinot Noir producers in Russian River Valley area however the Pinot Noir from the above is another notch above IMO.

While we were in Prescott last summer we all went to dinner and I was pleasantly surprised to find a Penner Ash on the menu.

Although not Pinot another wonderful smallish Oregon vintner is Abacela. They primarily grow Spanish varietals...another one of my fav's.
 

flywgn

Explorer
Speaking of Oregon ;-): Older Rex Hill vintages ... There are some very good Pinot Noir producers in Russian River Valley area however the Pinot Noir from the above is another notch above IMO. ... Although not Pinot another wonderful smallish Oregon vintner is Abacela. They primarily grow Spanish varietals...

Good suggestions all, and you're probably speaking of the tempranillo or dolcetto from Abacela. Both are excellent red wines. At one time there was thought that the tempranillo is a descendant of pinot noir, but I think information has changed about that. In any case, it's good.

In my comment about pricing and value above I might have come off as a bit harsh on those vineyards charging what may appear to be over-the-top prices.

Pinot noir vines are very parsimonious in their delivery of grapes. Production is often less than half, sometimes only a third, of that of the cabernet sauvignon or similar red varietals. Production costs will exceed those of the claret-style wines, and most common the producing acres are smaller in number.

All things considered, it's no wonder the wineries must charge what they do for those "noble" wines.

Allen R
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
Good suggestions all, and you're probably speaking of the tempranillo or dolcetto from Abacela. Both are excellent red wines. At one time there was thought that the tempranillo is a descendant of pinot noir, but I think information has changed about that. In any case, it's good.

In my comment about pricing and value above I might have come off as a bit harsh on those vineyards charging what may appear to be over-the-top prices.

Pinot noir vines are very parsimonious in their delivery of grapes. Production is often less than half, sometimes only a third, of that of the cabernet sauvignon or similar red varietals. Production costs will exceed those of the claret-style wines, and most common the producing acres are smaller in number.

All things considered, it's no wonder the wineries must charge what they do for those "noble" wines.

Allen R

The put out a very nice Albarino, Claret and a nice Garnacha. Actually all the wines I have had from Abacela including the Rosado and Syrah have been very good.
 

Pskhaat

2005 Expedition Trophy Champion
Allen, picking your brain some more. Would you please share your personal opinion on the wines of the Western Slope of Colorado?
 

flywgn

Explorer
Scott, I regret that I know little about the wines from CO. On our way north from Santa Fe, NM, last fall we spent a couple of nights in Durango while I engaged in some research (The Attraction of Oncorhynchus mykiss to a Selection of Dry Flies) on the Animas River.

At dinner one night I tasted a rather nice viognier from a Colorado vineyard. I don't have those notes handy and I can't remember the winery at this point. The restaurant was pouring it and a syrah from CO by the glass. I really don't know what the laws in CO are with respect to labeling. For all I know, the juice for those wines that I drank came from another section of the country. "Produced and bottled by" has a different meaning from "Cellared by", and I don't recall what the label designated.

My lack of knowledge about CO wines definitely calls for some in depth research. I look forward to it.

Allen R
 

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