off-roader
Expedition Leader
Thanks. This is my 1st Gen II although I've owned 3 gen I's. The first I rolled off road, the 2nd a :sombrero:good friend has and is rebuilding, the 3rd I still have along with this SR.
My latest mitsu build-up...
- Thread starter off-roader
- Start date
Any updates to this fine looking rig?
off-roader
Expedition Leader
Thanks for the compliment. I'll be installing rock sliders and winch in the coming weeks. Will post pics as it happens.
So, Off-Roader, how do you feel about the driving stability with the lift and larger tires especially over the stock or near stock setup? I'm really considering these G2 Monteros to build. Out of the ordinary, good reliability, well set up from factory, all the right parts are available, and trucks look good!
Do you think an interior roll cage could be easily implemented? At least to behind the driver's seat, but it looks like going through the dash would be possible also..... Anyways, my main concern with these trucks is roll over safety, mainly at HWY speeds.
Ever pull a trailer with yours? Do you have an online source for all of your photos?
Do you think an interior roll cage could be easily implemented? At least to behind the driver's seat, but it looks like going through the dash would be possible also..... Anyways, my main concern with these trucks is roll over safety, mainly at HWY speeds.
Ever pull a trailer with yours? Do you have an online source for all of your photos?
off-roader
Expedition Leader
This is my 4th Montero so my opinion about them would be a bit biased.:Wow1::smiley_drive:
Out of the box, I'd say the Gen I and Gen II models are easily on par with similar year Toys (LC not 4runner) and definitely better out of the box than a similarly equipped Trooper.
The biggest problem for Mitsu's are the availability of aftermarket suppliers but for most upgrades, there are parts available. Front & rear lockers, rock sliders, front bumpers, etc.
There are 3 distinct generations that were sold in the US (I'm assuming you're in N. America).
Gen I: 84-91
Gen II: 92-00
Gen III: 01-06
Later models are still being built but are no longer imported here.
As for an internal roll cage, it can be implemented depending on your fabrication skills.
You can minimize highway rollovers by changing the way you drive... that is being a 'defensive driver' and keeping the speeds lower, compensating for longer braking times, and generally not driving it like it were a car.
In my gen I Montero's, I've removed the rear anti-sway bars and never had an issue with a possible roll-over because I drive the way I do.
No, I don't pull a trailer nor have I ever pulled one with any of the 4 I've owned. Obviously you should always endeavor to only pull as much as the rig is safely rated for but that said, I know many that have pulled trailers far heavier than what the Mitsu was rated for and done so for brief stints without problems.
Keep in mind like any vehicle, ensuring it's in tip top shape with fresh fluids and a properly working cooling system is paramount to 'pulling' success.
I have a some pics on Webshots of my current 2 rigs (where the pics on this thread come from) and you can probably see them by simply poking around their site. Unfortunately I don't have too many digital copies of my 2nd rig, and absolutely none of my first rig.
Thanks for the info!
Yeah, I am definitely looking at the Gen 2 truck. As far as driving, I drove my lifted Xterra like a granny and am ok with that. I now drive a first gen 4runner with the 22RE = slow. I understand the concept of driving slower in an SUV. :victory:
If I got one of these trucks it'd likely be built similar to yours or with 33s and OME lift. I'm thinking wider tires would go a long way in stability. Probably go with ARB bumper up front and leave the rear bumper as it is. They just seem to be the right truck, for me, and I like you assessment for it being on par with the Land Cruisers. Thats what I've been considering, but the poor fuel economy from the LCs are a big turn off and the Rover's reliability have left a bad taste in my mouth... not from personal experience, but the overwhelming reputation.
I'm wanting a larger vehicle for overland trips, but one that is still capable of class 3- 3.5 trails. Which will require locker, sliders, etc. of course.
I've got a 3 year old and we're planning another pretty soon, so I'd prefer a bit of safety, I think an interior cage would be add peace of mind. I'd like one for my 4Runner as well.
Yeah, I am definitely looking at the Gen 2 truck. As far as driving, I drove my lifted Xterra like a granny and am ok with that. I now drive a first gen 4runner with the 22RE = slow. I understand the concept of driving slower in an SUV. :victory:
If I got one of these trucks it'd likely be built similar to yours or with 33s and OME lift. I'm thinking wider tires would go a long way in stability. Probably go with ARB bumper up front and leave the rear bumper as it is. They just seem to be the right truck, for me, and I like you assessment for it being on par with the Land Cruisers. Thats what I've been considering, but the poor fuel economy from the LCs are a big turn off and the Rover's reliability have left a bad taste in my mouth... not from personal experience, but the overwhelming reputation.
I'm wanting a larger vehicle for overland trips, but one that is still capable of class 3- 3.5 trails. Which will require locker, sliders, etc. of course.
I've got a 3 year old and we're planning another pretty soon, so I'd prefer a bit of safety, I think an interior cage would be add peace of mind. I'd like one for my 4Runner as well.
off-roader
Expedition Leader
Installed Hella 700FF driving lights over the weekend. At $79 for a pair and based on their venerable low cost cousins the Hella 500's, I felt the 700's would be reliable and provide just the amount of light required for my trips off road.
I mounted the lights on my bumper's upper mount tabs. Here you can just see the zip ties that hold the wires to the bumper on the driver side.
I figured one of the hardest parts would be to wire the switch into the inside of the rig.
Where I was supposed to drive a hole to get the wires in from the engine bay into the cabin was I was most concerned with since I hate drilling new holes into the firewall where you cannot undo them. Fortunately I found a pre-existing hole underneath to the left of the brake pedal. Good thing I found it prior to running a trail with a deep water crossing such as Fordyce, etc.!
The gray / off white stuff you can see around the entry to the cabin is putty I put there to minimize water intrusion.
Here's what is looks like underneath after I completed the application of that putty and put the carpet back where it belongs...
I mounted the round green switch in one of the available switch locations in the center console. This was accomplished with the help of a Dremel tool.
Per Grasscat's suggestion & prompting, I also added an extra 12V socket on the right there which I tested with my CB.
Below you can see the round relay mounted to the body via it's holder next to the radiator bracket and near the battery on the right are 2 new fuse holders/fuses (one is for the driving lights and one for the new 12v socket).
I mounted the lights on my bumper's upper mount tabs. Here you can just see the zip ties that hold the wires to the bumper on the driver side.
I figured one of the hardest parts would be to wire the switch into the inside of the rig.
Where I was supposed to drive a hole to get the wires in from the engine bay into the cabin was I was most concerned with since I hate drilling new holes into the firewall where you cannot undo them. Fortunately I found a pre-existing hole underneath to the left of the brake pedal. Good thing I found it prior to running a trail with a deep water crossing such as Fordyce, etc.!
The gray / off white stuff you can see around the entry to the cabin is putty I put there to minimize water intrusion.
Here's what is looks like underneath after I completed the application of that putty and put the carpet back where it belongs...
I mounted the round green switch in one of the available switch locations in the center console. This was accomplished with the help of a Dremel tool.
Per Grasscat's suggestion & prompting, I also added an extra 12V socket on the right there which I tested with my CB.
Below you can see the round relay mounted to the body via it's holder next to the radiator bracket and near the battery on the right are 2 new fuse holders/fuses (one is for the driving lights and one for the new 12v socket).
Ford Prefect
Expedition Leader
Wow, this is a great little thread. You have done a lot of really cool stuff to this truck. I did not know you could pick one up for such a good price too. Very cool.
One thing for you to consider, (and if you already knew this, sorry for the refresher...)and I am not saying that a roll cage is a bad idea, but you need to be sure you realize it will change the way the vehicle handles. By that I mean... Your rig, if t were outfitted exactly like another rig, same model and everything, but yours has the interior cage... Your rig would roll over sooner than the other one. Any cage worth its salt is going to put a lot of extra weight up high, and if you want one meant to protect you at highway speeds then that would put even more metal up high, and further increase your COG.
just a thought for you to keep in mind when you are driving the thing.
One thing for you to consider, (and if you already knew this, sorry for the refresher...)and I am not saying that a roll cage is a bad idea, but you need to be sure you realize it will change the way the vehicle handles. By that I mean... Your rig, if t were outfitted exactly like another rig, same model and everything, but yours has the interior cage... Your rig would roll over sooner than the other one. Any cage worth its salt is going to put a lot of extra weight up high, and if you want one meant to protect you at highway speeds then that would put even more metal up high, and further increase your COG.
just a thought for you to keep in mind when you are driving the thing.
off-roader
Expedition Leader
I like this specific model because it has a locking rear solid axle and for my wheeling needs this is preferable. However others prefer the comfort of an IFS/IRS design found in the newer 2001+ models. Mine also has a relatively powerful 3.5L dohc engine (214HP) and I know enough folks who have modified moderately & they're now capable of running nearly any difficult 4x4 trail (up to say Fordyce, Dusy Ersham, Rubicon, etc.).
What it's not is a rock buggy capable of doing the Hammers, etc.
As for the fuel economy, I'm getting 12-16mpg with my 35's. I'm sure that will drop some once I install my rock sliders and winch up front and even further still once I re-inforce or upgrade my skid plates.
As for the internal roll cage, it can be done but as has been mentioned it will raise your COG making your rig even more unstable and IMHO should only be done if you're regularly doing the +4 trails like The Dusy, etc. (scale of 1-5 excluding the new class of extreme trails used by rock buggies).
HTH.
Check out the window and sightout screens on Svens new ride on http://www.xxxpedition.com He has em inside and they seem to work out great.:sombrero: Nice site to visit, lots of stuff including trips all over the world.
off-roader
Expedition Leader
Nice. I also considered simply using Velcro to secure them but decided I didn't want to modify the interior that way plus it does get pretty hot in the summer time and I'd hate to learn the hard way that they velcro adhesive wasn't able to handle the heat.
I'll probably stick with the magnet idea for now.
off-roader
Expedition Leader
More mod's on the way...
Things on the table currently include...
1) Installing the rockskids (AKA rocker panel armor)
2) Modifying my bumper and installing the Milemarker SEC-12000 winch.
3) Installing these (sorry in advance for the porn below).:Wow1::Wow1:
A buddy found a set at a local pick and pull. I refurbishing them today with my friend Mike's help.
Things on the table currently include...
1) Installing the rockskids (AKA rocker panel armor)
2) Modifying my bumper and installing the Milemarker SEC-12000 winch.
3) Installing these (sorry in advance for the porn below).:Wow1::Wow1:
A buddy found a set at a local pick and pull. I refurbishing them today with my friend Mike's help.
nwoods
Expedition Leader
I don't know if my old Montero was unique, but it was a `92 LS with the 3.0L motor, 5 speed manual transmission, and factory rear locker. We loved it. This was back when we only visited Forest Service car camping sites and the occassional easy trail, but the Monty was always solid for us. We just simply outgrew it.
off-roader
Expedition Leader
Guess it wasn't unique. Does it have the large 9.5" diff or the smaller 8" diff?
As for outgrowing it... so you're now growing into that Jeep?!?:Wow1::sombrero:
tdesanto
Expedition Leader
The '92 had a 9" ring gear in the rear axle.
It breaks down like this for the rear axles:
83-86: 8" RG
87-95 9" RG
93-00 (if you had the 3.5L or the 2.8 TDI) 9.5" RG
2000-present 9.5" RG IRS suspension
The 9" ring gear is nothing to sneeze at. Even the Tacoma, Tundra, T100, and FJ Cruiser have an 8" RG.
It breaks down like this for the rear axles:
83-86: 8" RG
87-95 9" RG
93-00 (if you had the 3.5L or the 2.8 TDI) 9.5" RG
2000-present 9.5" RG IRS suspension
The 9" ring gear is nothing to sneeze at. Even the Tacoma, Tundra, T100, and FJ Cruiser have an 8" RG.