BKCowGod's 1980 Cherokee Chief Build Thread

BKCowGod

Automotive ADHD is fun!
Vehicle: 1980 Jeep Cherokee Chief

Goal: To have a safe, comfortable, self-contained, relatively nondescript truck for up to a month of vehicle-based exploration at a time.

Budget: The total budget is $5000. Including ALL gear. Since I traded for this truck, I have assigned it a value of $1,500 (the price I paid for my original truck). It already has the wheels and tires, lift, roof rack, and a recently rebuilt motor… So the below has to be done for under $3,500. This means I will be learning how to paint and doing all of the mechanical work myself. I am going to have to farm out the welding work, but I may be able to barter for some of it. My metal guy is really cool.

Why: There is an assumption on the Internet and elsewhere that overland travel is an expensive hobby. My goal is to prove that it is not just possible, but quite easy, to enter this hobby with minimal expense. Of course it requires more work and potential lost blood, but this also gives you a more intimate relationship with the vehicle. This in turn means that when you do break down 500 miles from humanity, you are more likely to know not only what happened, but why it happened and how to make it stop.

The Vehicle: I chose a fullsize Jeep for a number of reasons. My initial options were Land Rovers, Range Rovers, Land Cruisers, Troopers, and modern(er) Jeeps. All of these are excellent vehicles with their own strengths and weaknesses, but all also fall short in places I consider very important. The Cherokee Chief is a 110” wheelbase fullsize truck that has roughly the same footprint as a Range Rover SWB. It is a bit wider, but should still fit in all but the tightest trails. It is a classic, body-on-frame, solid axle, leaf sprung, pushrod V8 design. While many might see these as a liability, I see a bulletproof design that is eminently field-repairable, with ease of modification. The Dana 44 front axle gives me a turning radius tighter than most modern cars, and the stock ground clearance/articulation mean that minor modifications are all that are needed to create a truly formidable offroad machine. Even with all this, the Cherokee shares almost all of its components (and development dollars) with the uber-expensive Grand Wagoneer, so it has a relatively supple on-road ride, and the entire interior from the luxo-wag can be dropped right in. Because it is a 2-door, rear seat removal doesn't look stupid.

As of 10/26/09...
$2,171 spent. $2,829 remaining.

Most recent photo:
IMG_2101.JPG


What it looked like when I bought it:
IMG_1317.jpg


Completed Projects/Modifications:
* Tracked down and defeated all vacuum leaks
* Installed upgraded wiring harness
* High amperage alternator
* Engine rebuild: Bored out, RV cammed
* High capacity radiator
* 3" suspension lift
* 1" body lift
* Edelbrock Shocks
* 33" mud terrain tires on steel wheels
* Tad-Rack roof rack with hi-lift & shovel mounts
* Headliner & Steering wheel from '88 Grand Wagoneer
* Custom rear carpet installed (was bare metal)
* Upgraded ignition system to Ford TFI, MSD coil, Ford Motorsports wires
* Custom front bumper
* Replaced stereo & broken window with unbreakable lexan
* Porsche 924 seats
* SunPro tach installed

Upcoming Projects: (the below will eventually be expanded as work progresses)
 
Last edited:

BKCowGod

Automotive ADHD is fun!
Restoration: I need to be able to park the truck in front of exclusive restaurants and not get towed as an abandoned vehicle, but also not be a magnet for thieves or n'er-do-wells. Because of this, I have chosen to maintain the low-key brown color. Very little will be visible from outside. Trained eyes will notice the upgraded lighting and bumpers and the larger tires, but everything else will appear to be a stock older vehicle. Most of the below restoration projects are designed to get the truck back up to daily driver status.
• Resprayed body (original color) - $500 total. Body will be brown with black highlights and black on the fender flares.
• Fixed door locks, seals, electrical - $25. Basic stuff here.
:) Vacuum leaks, wiring harness, etc - $Free. Harness and tubing came with truck.
• Repair cruise control & gauges - $30. Sunpro mechanical gauge cluster and tach.
 
Last edited:

BKCowGod

Automotive ADHD is fun!
Range & Ability: Here is where most of the money will be spent. Mileage is around 14-16 on-road and can get as low as 10 off-road. The goal is to have 500mi range, so 45 gallons should give me a comfortable buffer. The dual batteries will require an upgraded alternator (just in case). It already has 4” of extra suspension, and the 3” body lift will be removed in favor of a 1” lift. This will give me good clearance for the 33” tires without being too tall. I have chosen to go with all terrains because much of my driving will be on the road. If I don't go retread, I will try for used BFG A/T's. If I can get a good deal on an LSD, I will go for it, otherwise I will end up with an Aussie Locker for the AMC 20 rear end. This will give me excellent offroad performance, but I am worried about compromising my snow traction. Overdrive will be a godsend both for my engine and my ears on the freeway, but I'm not sure if it will be in the budget. All metal stuff will be performed by Steel Worx of Santa Clara, CA.
:) High capacity alternator
:) Ford TFI & MSD 6A Ignition
:) 3” suspension lift & 1” body lift
:) 33” All-Terrain tires on steel rims
• Locking rear differential.
• Onboard air compressor
• Sliders and skid plates
:) Front bumper: 2x driving lights, CB antenna
• Rear bumper: 2x backup/flood lights, aux LED brake lights
:) Roof rack with recovery equipment (rope, gloves, etc), hi-lift, jerry cans, solar
 
Last edited:

BKCowGod

Automotive ADHD is fun!
Communications & Multimedia
:) CB radio mounted in glovebox for emergency/convoy communications
:) MP3/CD stereo with iPod control (iPod in glove box)
:) On-Road GPS on suction mount
• UMPC with wireless internet and GPS for offroad navigation.
:) Local map library
 
Last edited:

BKCowGod

Automotive ADHD is fun!
Passenger Comfort & Security
:) Retrofit seats from 1983 Porsche 924
:) Sound and heat insulation throughout
• Invisible UV tint on all windows, very mild privacy tint on back windows.
:) Rollable futon mattress
:) Down-filled flannel sleeping bag and additional down comforter
• Secure/hidden storage for 2 rifles & ammo
:) Storage for white gas, water, stove, food, etc. for 2 people x 14 days.
 
Last edited:

preacherman

Explorer
FSJ'S UNITE!!!!!!!

I am glad you are doing this build. So far I am having fun with my build and I think these trucks are a very under appreciated platform. My hope is that we can show everyone just how good these trucks can be.

I will be watching and possibly steeling ideas:sombrero:
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
Both of your FSJ are totally getting me "jonesing" for one. I love the body styling, very classic offroad look. With today's modern drivetrains, I would totally be looking to swap over a EFI, OD tranny setup, to get better performance and mileage.

My problem, I need another project like I need a hole in the head. Good luck on your builds!
 

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
Both of your FSJ are totally getting me "jonesing" for one. I love the body styling, very classic offroad look. With today's modern drivetrains, I would totally be looking to swap over a EFI, OD tranny setup, to get better performance and mileage.

My problem, I need another project like I need a hole in the head. Good luck on your builds!

LOL

I'm in the exact same boat as you! Love them and need another project like the proverbial hole in the head.

I've been reading up on the MPG issue over at ifsja.org.

Maybe you guys know... which years had a lockup torque converter on the 727? Any?

As far as highway cruise is concerned I don't know why a 727 with TCC can't be as efficient as a 700R4 swap. It's all gear ratio at that point. Lower axle gears and 1:1 locked drive - if off-road low range is affected do a 203/205 or 241OR t-case.

I read that the 258 based waggies can get into the low 20s for MPG. That's amazing in my mind, especially considering using a carb and other old fashioned emission controls.
 

BKCowGod

Automotive ADHD is fun!
Todd -

thanks, I meant to put slotted. This writeup happened because I forgot to bring my novel to work and I needed something to fill the time.

Others - I have yet to decide for certain re: fuel injection and tranny swap. I used to hate my mpg ratings until I realized pretty much every truck on this board is getting less than 20, and all the trucks that would work for me were lucky to get 15. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a well-tuned carb that 2min of tenderness in the morning before you drive off won't fix.

Preacher - go to the tech section of ifsja and read about the Ford ignition swap. I know you just bought all the parts, but not sure if you installed or not - maybe there's still time to swap.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I'm pretty sure that FSJ owners would crucify me, but had my own Cherokee Chief not been a rust bucket I would have eventually swapped in a TBI or TPI SBC with a 700R4 transmission. Mine had Q-TRac (those all did?) so there would be some issues with spline count at the transfercase. Not sure what I would have done there. Having done machine shop type work on the AMC V8's I'm not impressed with their design and doing a simple (read: TBI) EFI swap onto one would result in non off the shelf parts. I'd rather transplant an Engineered package with off the shelf support and move on to the next project.

Mine had the fuel tanks you're looking for (54 gallons total), but I do not know who made either tank nor do I know the where-abouts of the vehicle. They were a production item from their appearance.

Fill me in on the Dura-Spark II swap. I have done many on IH engines, which require significant work. Don't AMC V8's have the Ford ignition system in them OE? If that is the case the swap is simple.

Hi TZ!

EDIT: BTW, the Ford D-S II info here: http://www.ifsja.org/tech/motors/chrysler.html is incorrect. They do not ground through the module case. They only ground through the black ground wire in the distributor connector. Some OE Ford systems wire run-mode ign power to the red module wire and start-mode power to the white module wire. If it will not stop cranking you have those reversed. :)
 
Last edited:

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
Yeah, if you are happy with the drivetrain essentials as they stand now I certainly wouldn't change anything. It's something I'd think about at rebuild time - if you are changing things and going to spend money anyway logic.
 

2drx4

Adventurer
ntsqd - QT (fulltime) was an option, but I have a standard part time transfer case (it's either a NP208 or 209, I always forget)


You've got a 208. You might want a SYE for it. It wouldn't be needed, but if you trash your rear driveshaft you can at least drive without dumping all the ATF out of the tcase.


Oh, cool build, I always liked the cherokee chiefs more than the waggys. I'm interested to see how your budget pans out.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
ntsqd - QT (fulltime) was an option, but I have a standard part time transfer case (it's either a NP208 or 209, I always forget)

here's the link for the ignition swap I am doing http://www.ifsja.org/tech/electrical/ignitionupgrade.html
Let me state up front that both TZ & I bleed Ford Blue. :)

There are a couple things right and wrong, IMO, with the article.
The first thing is to just start out using that TFI coil. It is worth it. Get the bracket with the coil. I used a junkyard sourced coil (& module) on my '67 Ranchero for nearly 10 years prior to my selling the car.
The second thing is that in my very first D-S II conversion (about 1987 & on a 300ci 6 in a '66 Econoline Van) I ran the module off the stock ign supply wire, so it ran just fine on ~9 volts, not the 12 volts that the author claims is critical. I would wire to 12 volts, but don't sweat it.
If you can by any means avoid cutting the mag trigger wires, do so. The maximum voltage generated by that trigger coil is ~1 volt, so any resistance in the wires is a problem. Unlike the article's author I do not solder wires except in rare instances. It is too easy to cause yourself more problems than you thought that you fixed by soldering.

On that '67 Ranchero of mine I tried an MSD 6 in place of the stock module. I even went to the trouble of making up a wiring harness that let me easily swap them back and forth (not easy, there's a wire that has to change it's connection location). This was with a medium compression ratio 302 ci with a mild cam. Other than cold start idling (no choke) there was no detectable difference in the way the car ran. I wouldn't bother. One of the IH conversions that I made in 1990 used a JY sourced module for the 4 years that it drove around here, and for all that I know it may still be using it in Alaska. The OE modules, not those in the parts stores, are really that good.

So, JY shopping list:

D-S II Distributor to fit your engine
Large Cap Adapter
OE Module with Blue plastic wire strain relief
Wiring from distributor to module (within the blue strain relief modules any will work - shop for the one that closest matches your length needs)
Plug off donor car wire loom for ignition power (cut as long as possible)
TFI coil & bracket
TFI plug (note that the wire loom from the dist. to the module has a green wire that goes to the coil negative, if the TFI plug donor is the same as the dist. to module loom donor don't cut this wire)

While you're in the JY plug in everything that plugs together to check that you have all compatible parts. The plug shapes and key locations change with the different color strain reliefs, and most JY's won't take back wrong electrical parts.

A note on spark plug cables; in my employment we work with a tiny engine on a dyno. At one time we were experimenting with ignition systems and got to the point where RFI was causing problems with our data acquisition system. Nothing off the shelf at the local NAPA worked at all. Going to the MSD 8mm wires helped, but did not cure the problem. As an act of desperation we tried the Magnecor wires and those cured the problem. I've never had any trouble with MSD's on a car, only on that engine system on the dyno. So I would encourage that the spark plug cables be one of those two options.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
185,533
Messages
2,875,607
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top