Trailer Build

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
That's an awful lot of work just to run center caps IMO. And now you have to take the wheel off to grease the axle, if you didn't run the center cap in the wheel you wouldn't have to jack up the trailer and remove the wheels to grease them.

Having never built a trailer from the ground up before, this is my first actual "build thread". With all my pics and explanations listed above, I'm curious how you got the idea I went to all of this trouble just to run center caps? Thought I did pretty good illustrating how and why the Dexter hub and dust cap would not fit through the factory Jeep Moab rim center hole and I needed extra clearance either under/behind the rim, or an enlarged center bore on the rim to make it fit. As I was going to the trouble, just figured I'd make it all match between Jeep and trailer and the fitment of the center caps was the easiest work of all so far-trimming that plastic bit was cake and only took a few minutes. Was hoping my info would be clear to other Jeep guys doing the same thing so they know what they're up against and what issues they'll run into along the way. Granted there is more than one way to skin a cat, this is just how I chose to go about it in this application. Mr. Lefebvre had a good idea regarding trying a different style of dust cap underneath and I intend to try that for backups/spares when I get time. If it works, I'll add it to the thread as a second option.

You are right though about the greasing, and after seeing how everything fits, I'm thinking I may just run without the center caps after all. They're literally RIGHT THERE and as many other zerks I have in the suspension alone for my JJ's on the Jeep, the least amount of time I can spend on the trailer the better. Of course, will still need to remove the wheel to tear down and do full inspection, but hopefully that won't be as frequent.

GetupandGo-
Boring out the center of the rim was my first thought and obviously easiest/quickest solution, but as the Dexter hub was roughly 2 1/2" outside diameter, and the Moab center bore is basically 1 7/8", it meant enlarging over 5/8" from the pair and I'd have to do the spare on the Jeep as well so I had a replacement if necessary. I was worried removing that much may weaken the integrity of the rim as I talked to a few wheel guys who said it would be "iffy" at best. Basically was talked out of it. Also, I'll be running beadlocks on the Jeep eventually and don't know if I'll sell the Moabs to recoup costs, or send these in to Champion for a conversion. Either way, I wanted them unmolested for higher resale if need be. How much did you have to remove, and how is it working out for you? Glad it worked regardless!

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

JeepN95YJ

Adventurer
wheelaxle030.jpg

After seeing this pic of the zerk, I see you could have gained additional clearance by replacing that style for the needle style like this:

GreasePoint.jpg
 

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
Thanks! Another great idea. You'll have to forgive me though, my brain is not tracking very well at the moment. What exactly am I looking at? It looks like a close-up of possibly the needle adapter on a grease gun perhaps, but what is the two-part rusty looking pieces it's going into? This perhaps could allow for a shorter cap quite easily.

On a side note, I got my spring perches burned in to the axle and the axle pretty much ready for paint of some sort. Not sure yet what to coat it with. Also got my receiver tube picked up finally and a few pieces of the main box frame cut with the 45's for the front section of the box frame. Those darned 45's were more difficult to fit for welding than I'd remembered. Didn't actually get to burn any steel together. I'm over on Whidbey Island now at the in-laws place so no progress reports for a few days or so.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

JeepN95YJ

Adventurer
What exactly am I looking at? It looks like a close-up of possibly the needle adapter on a grease gun perhaps, but what is the two-part rusty looking pieces it's going into?

This is a close up picture of a driveshaft. The shiny part is the splined shaft that slips in to the slip yoke. The two rusty pieces are the slip yoke seal and the slip yoke itself. The grease fitting goes in to the slip yoke seal to keep the splines greased.

The "bolt head" is indeed the needle-type grease fitting. Use a needle adapter on your normal grease gun to fill.

I'm looking forward to seeing your build progress. You are doing a good job building what YOU want and solving problems as they pop up.
 

BigDaveZJ

Adventurer
My TJ Gambler wheels fit just fine over my abctrailerparts.com spindles, so I would assume the Rubi wheels would be the same. I skipped out on the center caps and just run the dust caps on the spindles.
 

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
Started Framework

Well, made a little progress on the frame today. Ended up changing the design twice though from my original plans. Haven't welded in a LONG time now-well over a year at least so I'm pretty rusty to say the least. Had some trouble on the vertical up welds on the rear bumper part with the 3/16" bumper welding to the 1/8" main frame. Didn't turn out as nice as I wanted so I'll be going back and making that look better later. Just when I thought I had it figured out, ended up with a major set-back as my welder blew the regulator pop-off on the guage. Made a call to Oxarc and it sounds like I can rebuild it but it will cost darn near as much as a whole new setup. That blew the rest of the day today so first thing in the morning I'll go get a new regulator/guage setup so I can get back welding again. Got a used torch setup yesterday so I'll pick up some things to go along with that as well so I'll try it tomorrow too. Will need it for the main receiver tube work-or part of it anyway. Oh, decided I HATE fitting 45 degree angles! Man, what a waste of a day that was. Between cutting on the chop saw, then spending hours with the grinder and flapper disc to fit right measuring back and forth trying to get a tight enough fit to weld-what a pain! Don't know how much time I wasted trying to get those all dialed in good. Finally got it, but man, what a pain! Anyway, here's a few pics:

Here's a shot of the pile of steel just to get things started. Some 2x4 .120 wall rectangle tube for the main frame, some 2x4 3/16" wall for the bumper, a stick of 2x2 .120 wall and 13'6" of receiver tube I'll cut down to final length currently undetermined at this time which will run full length front-back:

IslandCountyFair010.jpg


Here's a shot of the main frame pieces cut with the 45's:

steelpieces001.jpg


And here's where the regulator blew and I left off for the day. Main box is mostly welded and the crossmembers are cut and loosely fitted but not tacked yet. I had tacked the thing together then cut it apart about 4 different times and measured then re-measured from every damned angle possible side ways, length ways, cross ways, diagnol, etc., etc. trying to get this thing perfectly square. After cutting it apart and tacking it back for the 4th time, I finally got it. Did I mention I HATE 45's? This is my first trailer build, I've never done anything like this before, so it's a first attempt. Trying not to screw it up too bad. Anyway, here's where we left off today. It's actually SQUARE!

steelpieces002.jpg


Anyway, I'll get my regulator and more supplies tomorrow then get back to it.

more to come...

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
Blasted Receiver Tube

Okay shameless update for today. Got a late start as my Grandparents came to town this morning to see the baby so we all had a great visit and lunch at the house before they left for some business in town. Finally got to the garage around 2:00 this afternoon. Just in time to hit the heat of the day for 103 degree temps and still managed to loose 6 pounds during working with this damned receiver tube and finally getting to do some welding on the dumb thing. Man what a bear that was. Can't say that I ever want to go through that again. Finally called it quits around 8:30 tonight as I'm just getting too old for this I think.

Anyway, after fighting with the holes I bored through the frame and crossmembers and finally enlarging them enough to fit the receiver tube through, I was finally able to get the dumb thing to fit all the way through front to back. Here it is loosely sitting in there after fighting for a while just thankful it finally fit:

framework010.jpg


After grinding off all the scale to nice shiny metal for welding on the front face and back face of each crossmember and front beam as well as rear bumper, then drilling out the rear receiver tube hitch hole, I set it in place and took tons of measurements to get it centered. I marked a spot up on the tongue in the center and measured for diagonal as well off the front beams to get it centered that way as well, then once it was all perfectly centered as best as I could tell from all angles, I went ahead and tacked it in place, then went ahead and burned it in. Here it is with it mostly welded across the 3 faces top and sides of what you can reach as it sits on the jack stands here. Tomorrow I go back to work on grave, but I'll finish welding the bottom side in the morning just so that part is all done.

framework011.jpg


I had to bring my wife out to discuss this portion of the receiver tube for a bit. Originally I was going to flush mount the rear part of the receiver, but after lining it up and assessing where the hitch pin would line out, it worked out that it would fall almost directly on the rear bumper line and would not allow for much weld in that area. I could push the beam through more, but then it wouldn't allow for much weld on the outside face. After discussing with my wife, she decided that if she had to remove the bike rack or hitch, or shackle, or whatever was hooked up back there, she was NOT crawling underneath the trailer to undo the hitch pin. She said make the beam come out beyond the bumper so she could access the pin from plain sight outside the trailer without any trouble and without crawling underneath. She spoke, I listened, and so it be. Here's where it sits for now. If need be, I can cut it back some, but this actually serves dual-purpose as a receiver, but also protection for my LED lights as well. There will also be a pair of D-ring shackle tabs welded in as well that will stick out a couple inches so I don't think this is to bad. This sticks out 3.25" total:

framework012.jpg


Anyway, after fighting with that damned receiver tube, I had to post pics for today's progress. It's not totally welded in, but I'll finish it up tomorrow on the bottom side. Some of the gaps are pretty big in order to make it fit and slide through, but even so, it was a real bear to bang in there with a sledge hammer. Luckily it's about 1'6" longer than I need so I'll cut some off the tongue end when I determine the final tongue length as the end is pretty beat up. Funny thing about this receiver tube too-my LNR hitch fits perfect with absolutely ZERO slop, but none of my other receiver hitches fit. It's 2" inside diameter seamless tubing. Haven't checked my Yakima Fullswing bike rack yet or the main D-ring recovery shackles and such. Not sure if I want to open it up slightly with a dremel just a HAIR, or take the paint off all my other items to fit. Not sure why nothing else works. It's standard receiver tube. Wonder why the LNR works??? Everything measures 2" with a tape, just splitting hairs-literally-as to whether it goes or not. Good thing is there will be NO wobble on the tonge of this bad boy when it's finished.

more to come...

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
Axle Placement

Well I finished the welding of the receiver tube, then cut the tongue length down to an estimated length. I got a little nervous of spring placement so I made the tongue length 2" longer than my original planned length just in case my axle center doesn't work out as I hope it will and I need to move it forward a hair. I didn't want to have the tongue length too short if that happened. If the axle placement works out as planned, I can trim that extra 2" off no big deal and all will work out nicely as planned.

From there I went ahead and tacked in the spring hangars in their location based off my planned axle center if it works out the way I'm hoping it will. I'm still not sure of shackle angle and from what I can tell so far, anything from 0-10 is acceptable, so I set these at 6.5 degrees. Being loose with no load, they should settle under the trailer weight and kick back a hair more, then under load, be more yet which should be fine. Like I said, they're just tacked for now, so I'll play with it a bit and if I don't like it, I'll move them. Here's what it looks like after messing with it a little today. From what I figure, frame height should be roughly 27" off the ground if I'm looking at it right upside down. There will likely be some spring sag in that, but it should be close.

axlefitment001.jpg


more to come...

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

willyswagon

Adventurer
The trailer build looks to be going great!
Plus the background in the shots puts me in my happy place. The truck looks to be a 1956 by looking at the grill?
 

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
Hey Thanks! Well, you're close! It's a '55 actually. Wife named her Pearl. She's basically all stock with the exception of the engine which I'm not totally sure what it is. Strait 6 that I THINK is a Ford 226 if the parts stores numbers are correct of the castings and all. When I put the 255/85/16's on the Jeep, I swapped the factory 245/75/16's over to the Willys truck for some decent rubber. She's still all 6-volt too. Been meaning to upgrade, but time and money just haven't permitted that yet. Eventually she'll get some love but for now, that's how she be. Really need to find somebody to redo the seat, or at least a kit that I could try it myself. It's totally shot, torn to pieces with just the foam now, no covering left. Not sure who'd have a kit or anything similar that might work. It's the two-piece style where the bottom folds up towards the wheel and reveals the toolboxes underneath, then the rear part folds up as well to access behind the seat back. When I got her, I she ran pretty rough but I was able to limp her home. Changed out all the fluids, belts, hoses, plugs, wires, etc., etc. Got her purring like a kitten then, had her running good. Fun to drive too around the neighborhood and orchards and stuff. Will use her up at the ranch too hauling fencing and cattle supplies and such. That was the plan anyway. No time and money anymore, not sure what will end up with her now. Time will tell. Kind of funny too-all the neighborhood kids just love it-they say it looks just like some truck in a Disney movie. Not sure the name of it, but I guess is some car or truck cartoon these days they think is pretty neat. As their parents go for walks at night, they always have to walk by and take a look to check it out, make sure it's still there I guess.

As for the trailer-will be a while before I can get back to work on it again unfortunately. Looks like the upcoming holiday weekend will be my next day off when I'm actually able to do anything again. Kind of eager to get the box going on it too. Oh well, in time I guess.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

willyswagon

Adventurer
It must be a late 1955, as those grills were used for 1956 production. There were some built in late 1955 that got that grill, if they ran out of the standard 55 grill.
In 1957 they went back to the old 1955 style grill.
The other thing is someone may have put a 56 grill in it later to give it that rare look. Other clues would be the speedometer, and the front spring shackle design.

All the same they are all cool!!:victory: And a driveway without one is ...well empty!:smiley_drive:
 

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
Tongue Framework

Well time for another update. Did some work the last couple days to the tongue fitting the rest of the frame together. I wanted the trailer to be able to break 90 degrees from the Jeep if need be, so I bolted the axle under it, then parked it sideways behind the Jeep to simulate the same thing. It turns out my trailer sits pretty close to what I expected while on the axle/tires, at 26" exact to the bottom of the frame. This puts the center of the hitch at 27.5" off the ground, and exactly 2" above my Jeep's receiver. Somehow I neglected to measure that part on the Jeep so I'll need a rise hitch instead of a drop. Thought I had one, but turns out I don't think I do in the size I need for the build. Measurements given are with the BALD MT/R's that I'm tossing out as soon as I replace with new 255/85's of some sort. Can't get my current BFG MT's anymore so I need a replacement. Likely Toyo MT's, but we'll see. Any suggestions? Needs to be TOUGH. Anyway, I'll likely gain another 2" with the tires so I may be in a slight predicament with my swingout-we'll see after everything settles.

Anyway, with the trailer 90 degrees from the Jeep, I found I could stretch the A-frame further out than I originally thought, which is good. Stronger design than a shorter A frame would be, and more room for a bigger box and other items up on the tongue, which I was hoping for later on. All good news. Bad news is fitting this sucker was a royal PITA!!! Chop saw would only cut the rear most angle at the main frame end, so that meant cutting all four sides of the 2x4 .120 wall tube with an angle grinder and cut off wheel. Got pretty close, but still needed a fair amount of grinding/sanding with a flapper disc and MANY test fits and cleanups to get to a good fit before even thinking about welding the damn thing. Cut pretty far out with the disc too and as the receiver is more radiused, left a pretty big hole I had to fill. Welds aren't the greatest up there, but they'll work. There is a LOT of weld up there around that thing too, front and back on the main beams, top and bottom as well, then with my fish plates on the bottom as well tying it all together. I think I'm good. Man, what a bear!

Enough rambling, here's the tongue framework:

tongueframe002.jpg


tongueframe001.jpg


After the tongue was together, I decided it was time to break out the torch and make some fishplates for the bottom for the main joints at the front most point on the tongue on the A, at the main 3-point connection of the A and the main frame and the back of the main frame where the bumper ties in. These serve a couple purposes actually-first to lock everything together solid and secure the joint, but also to act as a skid plate of sorts when the Jeep breaks into a ditch or over a log/rock what have you and the trailer augers in to the ditch. My other trailers have all worn away the main frame in these locations and are weakening. I don't think I'll have the same problem with the 2x4 .120 wall tube, but the added 3/16" plate will be extra insurance just the same.

I acquired a few Victor torches a while back along with some tanks, tips and various other supplies to go along with. I've never used a torch before so I didn't know the first thing about them. My Jeep buddy down at Oxarc (gas supplier/welding outfit) said to bring everything in and he'd test it all and teach me how to use it, make sure it was all working and safe to use, so I did. Everything checked out and I went through the safety course with him just so I knew what I was getting into. Even with his help learning how to run it, I'd still never actually cut anything before. When I tried making my first cuts today, I kept killing the torch. Found out after a while I wasn't supplying enough gas or oxygen. I've used plasma many times before, but never a torch. One day I'll afford a plasma cutter and nice shop, but for now, this will work. Once I figured it out, and after a couple test cuts, Wow, this thing made quick work of my 3/16" plate, and sliced through it like butter!

Not sure what would happen with it, I made a make-shift platform to protect my driveway with a few bricks and some steel plate, then some more bricks to elevate my main plate I was cutting from. After tracing my templates, I transfered them to my steel, then went to work cutting them out. It was a little difficult being all bent over and cutting freehand, but it worked and they came out all pretty dang close. After some quick cleanup with the flapper disc, they burned in pretty good with the welder. Good enough for me anyway.

Here's getting started:

fishplates002.jpg


And here's the silly little platform with the fishplates cut out:

fishplates001.jpg


more to come...

Best of luck,

Mike
 

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
Fish Plates

I'm not sure the proper name for these, so I'm calling them fish plates as I think that's what similar plating is called. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Here's one of the rear bumper/frame plates:

fishplates006.jpg


Here's one of the front 3-point main frame-tongue joint plates:

fishplates007.jpg


And here's the front most A-frame plate:

fishplates009.jpg


After welding them, I just used a regular wire brush and hand brushed them down to look like that. Knocked all the color off from welding. Here's the whole frame:

fishplates010.jpg


Once I had the bottom done-or at least I think it's done. I actually went ahead and finished burning in the spring hangars too while I was on this side. This thing is getting pretty heavy now and I'm getting tired of having to flip it over all the time, so I tried to finish the bottom side today and be done with it to minimize flips. Anyway, after getting that done, I flipped it over again and welded in the top sides. I couldn't really get the wire brush in there as the wood handle is too big, so these are pretty dirty looking. Here's the rear corner:

fishplates011.jpg


And here's the front 3-point plate again from the top side:

fishplates012.jpg


That's it for pics for today. It took a long time making the plates and finishing up the bottom of the main frame. I did get my main uprights cut, but had to quit as the neighbors probably don't like all the cutting/welding/grinding after 9:00pm. I'll get started on them tomorrow I hope. If that happens, I'll have to figure out what to do with either the Jeep, or the trailer as one or the other won't get to sleep in the garage anymore...

more to come...

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

'05TJLWBRUBY

Adventurer
Started the Uprights

Boy, I SEVERLY underestimated the time it would take to build this thing! I was hoping to use it by the end of the summer. A lot of that is due to my hectic work schedule and never getting time to work on it, but also, I must be about the slowest builder in the world. Granted, this is the first time I've done this, and this is by far the biggest/largest/grandest project I've ever tackled, but still, today's work didn't get me very far. Took me a while to figure out a jig system to make sure everything was square and true to the frame for each piece, and how to measure it all out so it was centered perfect, then once I had that down, took a while to level them all and get them squared and perfectly level front-back and side-side. I had to account for my fish plates underneath, so I made the corners a little longer, and the fudge factor with the cut-off wheel on the chop saw, then the center 1x2's and front 1x2's are all shorter because there is no fish plate in those locations. Once done, they're all dead level each way and exactly 30" deep to the bed depth. They all came out right, but man, sure took me a while. Cleaning the metal took the longest I think as I'm kinda picky about that most of the time, then leveling everything. Had to tack, then re-tack several of them a few times. I got the top-rails all cut, and had to box the ends of the two long rails before I could cut the 45's for the front piece. Got all that done, then cut the front section and both 45's for it. The top will be all boxed and mounted on top so everything is sealed. Don't want any bugs or critters making nests in my end pieces. Started getting too dark to see good enough to actually weld in the 45's and I want them good and square so I spent the rest of the night cleaning up. Got lucky in the placement of the trailer as the garage door only had 3/4" to close! Would hate to try and move this now. I did NOT finish weld the uprights as I want to fit the top rail first, then adjust as needed to square everything in case something moves while laying down the final beads. Here's how it looks so far:

In this pic, I have the 4 main corners tacked in already. They're 2x2 .120 wall. You can see how I went with a jig to align and place the center uprights, which are 1x2 .120 wall. With this method, I was able to center them even across the frame, support them underneath as a brace, then level and true them up from there:

uprights001.jpg


Here's another shot of the jig braced up:

uprights002.jpg


Here's a front-on shot with them all on:

uprights003.jpg


A diagnol profile-excuse the dog, he was inspecting things:

uprights004.jpg


When I load my elk camp and four wheeler on my 5x10, I stack my cook stove on top of my big cooler. The pair together was 30" deep, which is why I wanted this trailer to be 30" deep. I needed this to be no less than 48" inside width, and the way I built it, I was able to get a solid 50" inside width. It's 6' long inside once the tailgate will be done, which will sit inside the frame, and basically over the rear bumper area. Here's how the stove looks on top of the cooler right now. There will be a lid, which will sit 2" above this:

uprights005.jpg


Another shot:

uprights006.jpg


I've actually been asked a few times about the "pink mask" in a few of the pictures. Figured I'd post up just what that "pink mask" is for. Most folks know this already, but some don't. During cutting, welding, grinding, cleaning metal, removing scale, and yes, also during MIG welding-that plume of stuff you see given off is all putting dust and vapor in the air that you breath and inhale. This was spread out all over the garage floor just from today's little bit of work that I was able to accomplish in the uprights alone. Not much welding, not much cutting as I had the main pieces already cut last night. A fair amount of work done, and lots of hours spent working, but nothing in comparison to yesterday's welding on the fishplates. Here is the dust from today-just a hair under 2 pounds, scattered through the air and thrown all over the garage that you'd breath in without the filters:

P100001.jpg


These are basic half-mask respirators with P100 filters. Or, your "pink mask". I learned about them through work, as they're required by OSHA and by our plant regulations while cutting/grinding and welding due to the plume and dust given off after a certain amount of time working. I forget the specs/standards, but the guys have to wear them. I have two of them. I got the grey one first, which is the 5500 series half-mask respirator and used it for a while. I now use that as my back-up. A short time later, I got the black one, on the left. It is the 7700 series. Both are NIOSH units, the difference in them being that the black one-the 7700 series is a little more soft, little more pliable and a lot more comfortable to wear, especially when wearing them all day long over long periods of time. They are a soft plastic type material of sorts, not sure what exactly, but are able to be totally torn down into pieces and washed in regular dish soap and water by hand. To be truly certified, you need to be "fit tested" using a sulfur stick, which I had done at work to make sure they are sealed properly. The "test" to see if they leak REALLY SUCKS! But, it's good insurance to make sure they're sealed properly and working. I think it was a sulfur stick, I could be wrong on that. The filters themselves are the "pink" P100's. They filter 100% of the particulates in the air, or all that crap you see above. Ever blow your nose after welding and have a bunch of black crap come out? I did before wearing this. I also had bloody noses and a couple major sinus surgeries. I decided my health was far more important than being seen wearing a silly pink mask. Now, after wearing this all day long, I no longer blow black crap out my nose, no longer have bloody noses, and no longer have sinus problems after cutting/grinding/welding all day. The mask themselves cost somewhere around $20-$30 and you can get any kind of screw-on cartridge for them including organics, ammonia, paints, chemicals, these P100's, etc. The P100's I have here cost between $5-$6.00 a pair for replacements and are NO comparison to the regular white dust mask you see elsewhere. These work, and work well. Oh, and they make two kinds-regular cartridge style, and the "pancake filters". These are the "pancake" style. They fit great under a welding hood! North brand 75FFP100 NIOSHP100 W177132 www.northsafety.com.

P100003.jpg


Hopefully tomorrow I can get the top rail fitted and installed. If I can, I'll try and finish-weld all the uprights and top rail both. My wife will be home tomorrow with my beautiful baby girl sometime in the morning, then it's back to work Tuesday so no more trailer work for a few weeks. Hopefully I can finish the uprights before they get home. I'm about out of supplies too so time to re-stock.

more to come...

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
D

Deleted member 9101

Guest
Man, I like your style.. homemade and over built. :bowdown:
 

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