86 4Runner build

[Grim Reaper]

Well I have managed to get a few projects done on my truck. Thought I would start a build thread here since this site most reflects my direction with this truck. This is actually lifted from a build post on my clubs site so you may notice a little Cut and paste flavor.


Introduction:
The truck on this project will be a 1986 Toyota 4Runner. This is the First year of the IFS trucks from Toyota for the US market.

The truck is powered by the time and 3rd world proven 22RE (fuel injected). While this motor is not considered a power house it is considered one of the most reliable motors ever built. In September of 2006 a Gentleman rolled 1,000,000 miles on a similar Toyota 2wd powered by the same engine. While the engine doesn't have the full 1,000,000 miles it does have 600,000. The engine failure was a maintenance (lack of at 400k) issue. The transmission has never been rebuilt. http://www.racetoretirement.org/

The truck has the W56 5 speed manual transmission, Toyota Gear drive case with 2.28 low range, 8 Inch Toyota rear axle and the 7.5 inch IFS front. Stock the truck is gear 4.10.

The wheel base is 103. Starting weight is under 3800lb and its about 18 inches narrower then the last rig I had (K5). Despite its size it is a well planned out rig that has good comfort. It has remarkably strong components in stock form. The 8 inch is considered every bit as strong as the us market 1/2 ton offerings. Incredible aftermarket support since this vehicle had world market. The Aussies LOVE these trucks and have come up with everything under the sun for them.

It has respectable ground Clarence in stock form.


Build philosophy.


My build style on this project is going to stray from the norm. My last truck, 1975 GMC K5 Jimmy I had I had made a very conscious decision to stay with lighter running gear. For the most part I had good luck with that truck. I formed an early alliance with www.ColoradoK5.com and was fortunate to have the opportunity to have the truck featured as one the CK5's project vehicle as a Budget wheeler. I was given the opportunity to try out many products in the process. It was a great truck and I had quite a lot of fun with it but I hit a wall in that its weight was astronomical. In trail dress it was rocking the world at 6,600lb. :uglystupid2: I could easily stall my 9500I. Mean old Mr Gravity was killing me.

I had only a few options at this point.....Skin it alive to loose weight, throw one ton axles under it or start on a new platform. With the distance we have to go to get to our trails I had wanted to tow my trail rig in case I broke it I would have a way to get it home. Well that meant the 1 ton axles were out. I really wasn't ready to make a buggy out of it....So I sold it.

In comes the 4Runner. I find I am not quite as interested in Rock crawling these days. The plan is to make the vehicle more of a long distance expedition rig. I want to do some regular cross country travel to places like Silverton CO, the Maze, Monument Valley, Baja. So the goal will be a well rounded vehicle that is capable of running down the hwy with the A/C going at 75 mph while getting good MPG and then be able to run medium challenge trails. Then be able to support multiple days of off the beaten path travel.

While I have a solid axle that would be appropriate for a SAS I plan to retain the IFS for the time being. It will have better road manners. It will work better on wash board roads and desert style travel. I can keep a lower CG with the IFS. It is already on the truck so we will go with it for now.

Goals:

Weight to be maximum 4200lb in trail dress.
Maintain economy to nearly its stock 24mpg hwy.
Good hwy manners.
Support expedition trailer.
Selectable locker, again for better balance of Hwy and off road travel.
Capable camping transport including sleeping platform.

Insperations

http://www.expeditionportal.com/
http://www.brian894x4.com/
http://www.turtleexpedition.com/
http://www.adventuretrailers.com/

Plans:
Rebuild Engine: Done
Rebuild Transmission: Done
33's. Originally plan was 33x10.5's For weight reasons. Ran across a smoking deal on a set of 33x12.5's I couldn't pass up: done
2 Inch body lift :Not done
2 inch Drive-train lift: Not done
2 inch gas tank lift: Not Done
Custom cross member to optimize break over angle after body lift: Not Done
Selectable locker: Toyota electric selectable locker Acquired but not installed
Re gear to match larger tires: looking for a good deal
Storage system with sleep platform: In progress
Dual Battery system with battery gang feature and isolator for charging: Acquiring needed materials.
Rear power window control in cargo area: not done
Marlin Crawler: Second case acquired but still need install kit
Complete outfitting with support gear: Made a 12v refrigerator capable of temperatures down to 14degrees F. Lacking thermostat to control. but otherwise working.
On-board air of some type: I have a York available but due to space constraints under the hood my go with CO2 or electric.
Electric radiator fan: Working on adapting fan off Mitsubishi product.
optimize suspension rear longer shackles and custom spring pack to increase wheel travel to 14+ inches to make up for IFS front.: Planning
Optimize IFS travel while not compromising reliability: Planning
Skid plate: either custom or Bud Built http://www.budbuilt.com/new/ifs.html
Bumpers with winch mount for HS9500i I already own: planning On hold till body lift installed
Slider: planning On hold till body lift installed.
Side body protection: On hold till body lift installed
Tire and extra fuel rack: On hold till body lift installed
Power inverter for electronics: 300watt acquired but being evaluated if large enough
Front and rear Power access/Jump points: Forklift style disconnects acquired but not installed.

Expedition trailer: I am activly collecting parts to build an aluminum body trailer. It will be its own build post once I have the axle and steel aquired.

I will post updates as projects are worked on.

Picture of truck as aquired:

[Grim Reaper]

While the first post points out I have been actively collecting parts for the truck here is the first major addition. I had to replace the UniroyalPOS's that could not be balanced and were out of round. They were real kidney beaters and had to go. I managed to find a REALLLY good deal on a set of nearly new 33 x 12.5 x 15's. I had wanted to run 33x 10.5s to keep weight down but I'm Mr Cheap and this deal presented itself. It includes two spare tires.

I had read that with a body lift and minor fender and floor modifications that 33x12.5s could be fit on the truck. I decided to see if I could fit them with no lift so I could get these bad tires off the truck.

I managed to do it with some hammer time on a pinch weld and fender lip. The key was the rims. I decided to go with a set of Aluminum rims early on because they are more likely to be true and the weight savings. If I had gone with the 10.5's then the wheel tire upgrade would have actually been lighter then the Stock steel rims and the 235x75x15's the truck wore in stock form. The stock combination came in at about 61.5lb. The 33x12.5s on AR OutlawII stock offset 15x7's weigh 68lb. As near as I can tell with what shipping weights are listed on Tire Rack the 10.5s on the same rims would have weighed about 52lb.

Got them on and they do not Rub. Hate to put a body lift on it now since its not for tire clearence but the gains with the drivetrain and fuel tank lift will be worth it.

Here is what the truck looks like on 10/20/06

[Grim Reaper]

Storage system:

The first outfitting I did to the truck was to build custom cargo panels to replace the flimsy plastic just the truck came with. I salvaged some 1/8 inch aluminum and lined the cargo bay. The passenger side rear fender has a remarkable amount of available storage in it. It currently houses a 1 gallon jug of antifreeze, 1 spare quart of motor oil, 30ft tow strap, Spare upper and lower radiator hose, 2 tie down straps and the factory tool kit. :2funny:


I also sourced a 8 inch tall drawer with a slide latch for a decommissioned service vehicle that will become the cargo system.

The drawer will have a deck that will cover it up to the rear seat with a flip up area to access cargo space between the drawer and the seat. With the rear seats folded an extension will be able to be fitted that will give a full 6.5ft long sleeping platform Similar to this: http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=38687

[Grim Reaper]

Latest recovery gear.

I have always wanted some sort of Traction mat, Sand ladder/ Bridging ladder. Well I managed to get one today. And you know me I did some horse trading in the right place deal. So a BIG zero on the spend meter. ;D

Basically what I scored was this:
http://www.terra-trax.com/

What this stuff really is, despite what that web site would have you think, is industrial grating. Its a product called Fibergrate.

http://www.fibergrate.com/product_de...=2&pselect=1#1

Anyway One of the companies near where I work does a lot of industrial grating sales. We had a bunch of boxes we didn't need and offered them up to the neighboring businesses. I knew they had this stuff so I asked him a price on a couple pieces. He said come over and lets see what I have in the drop pile. So he slides out a piece 40x38 inches and thanks me for the boxes.

I need to cut it into a couple pieces. I think I am going to build a roof rack with a similar style to the Xtara and this will be the floor till its needed for recovery. I am also looking at using one piece for the sleeping deck extension I need for the storage system I am building.

Seems sturdy enough though. Didn't notice any flex with it spanning my ditch.

[Grim Reaper]

Part B of the Storage system.

Planned to have this done in time for the Trail clean up but just didn't happen. Between a couple late nights at work and poor weather the 4x4 gods did not work with me.

Part A of the storage system is side panel storage.

Bart B is the drawer and main section of the sleep platform.

The original intent was the drawer would have an aluminum top and perimeter filler. So the dogs would have a place to ride. This was when I was still planning on keeping the partition wall and either tent camping or building a new trailer. Still plan on a trailer but I decided I wanted to be able to sleep in the truck when its just me on short trips.

The first problem I found was the top of the drawer was fine for 2 40lb dogs but flexed to much with my Fat self on it. So looking around the massive pile of bits in the garage I found a couple sheets of ply. One was 3/4 birch faces and the other was a piece of 1/2 lower grade material. The 3/4 would have been stronger and I could have made it look a lot better but it was also about 50% heavier. So learning from past builds I went with the lighter material with a little design improvement to make it stronger.

The one thing I didn't get installed was the lashing rails. Still working on how I want to do that. Leaning toward a couple pieces of 1/8 2x2 aluminum angle with a bunch of holes drilled in it to hook straps on. This will also give a lip for the dogs so they don't slide their feet off and hurt themselves.

The forward compartment has no floor to keep weight down. The floor of the truck is it. I have a couple plastic baskets I think I will fit in there. The top has a couple flush mounted latches that can be opened with a quarter. So not super secure from thief's. The low use low dollar items will be housed there. Things like hand winch, Chains, large spare parts.

The whole thing is bolted to the floor with Grade 8 5/16 bolts. I need to make a locking plate for the drawer where the tools will be.

Part C will be an extension that will fill the area between the box to the front seats when the back seats are folded. This will give the sleeping area about 6.5 feet of length with the pillow against the back of the front seat.
I am thinking of using part of the Sand ladder in the previous post. I will have to throw a mat over it so it doesn't tear up my sleeping pad or bag. The down side is if that thing has been used and is covered in mud.

[Grim Reaper]

Update:

A few months ago I managed to locate a factory 4.88 front dif assembly. This week I had the cash and time to buy the 4.88's for the E-Locker I have had in a bucket for the last year. Finished setting up the gears yesterday. Ran the 3rd by a mechanic buddy's for a inspection of my work. He gave the thumbs up on my first gear set up.

Today I need to pick up 2 studs for the E-locker and a couple resistors and parts to build the control circuit. and this afternoon I can pull the rear axle out from under the truck and modify it for the TRD locker.

It will be so nice not having to down shift into 3rd on the hwy when I hit a couple of the steep grades around here.

[Grim Reaper]

Didn't get as far as I had hoped last week but I did finish up with the control circuit and the gear install. It worked perfect first try!

Here is the two articles I referenced for this mod:
http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

The control circuit is actually a little bit of a mix of the two main set ups from each article. I felt the control set up of the top link was the better design but I wanted the extra status lights of the second link. I really feel this is important because if you didn't get it full unlocked you could damage the locker and without a disengage light you would never know.

The Green Status light comes on when fully locked.

The red light lets you know that locker is in progress of locking and once fully locked the Red light goes off and the Green light comes on.

The Yellow light lets you know that the locker is disengaging and once it fully disengages the light goes off.

I used a momentary switch but the circuit design uses limit switches and once it hits the limit of travel it cuts the power off by interrupting path to ground for the relay trigger. The dash switch triggers the positive. It should be fine with a standard single pole double throw switch. The Momentary (on) off (on) does add a little safety in that if you release the switch it also kills the positive to the coil.

Still mulling it over. It would be nice to just flip the switch instead of having to hold till it completes its cycle but it only takes a few seconds to cycle.

Tomorrow when I get home from work I will start yanking the axle out from under the truck and clean it up. If The weather holds and I don't have to work late I think I will have it all installed by the end of the week. Might even have time to swap in the front diff as well.

[CLynn85]

Dang, looks like you're moving right along! Cool to see an older rig getting worked over.

[ntsqd]

I thot that was you!
I can vouch for how well Mike Carter's rigs work with the E-locker. We've done a couple trips together & I understand he & my friend Craig are headed for Death Valley next week.
I see yota links pasted, so I'm guessing you already know about the various problem spots the IFS trucks have. The cure, though not in your style of spending, is Total Chaos' parts. They will fix the issues and live a long life. 85+% of the LocoMocos are toyota drivers running TC parts.

[Grim Reaper]

I thot that was you!
I can vouch for how well Mike Carter's rigs work with the E-locker. We've done a couple trips together & I understand he & my friend Craig are headed for Death Valley next week.
I see yota links pasted, so I'm guessing you already know about the various problem spots the IFS trucks have. The cure, though not in your style of spending, is Total Chaos' parts. They will fix the issues and live a long life. 85+% of the LocoMocos are toyota drivers running TC parts.

Yeah I know the weaknesses. I carry a spare idler arm and shaft. I won’t lock the front just to be easy on it. Honestly in stock form before the locker I was quite impressed how well it was doing on the types of trails I like. I'm not really looking to rock crawl so even though I have a solid front axle ready to go I think I will stick with the IFS. I really like the TC and other long travel set ups but not in the budget right now.

The 4.88 E-locker is in and it finally got off jack stands last night. Boy it feels great in 1st and 2nd gear now. Still have air in the lines and it was dark so I need to bleed them again tonight and then I can get the gears broke in over the next couple days. I need to get the wiring in the truck as well. Its built and tested on the bench but I have been running it on a Astron power supply.

Off next week so the front diff will go in then. Adding a rear lower control arm brace as well. I have the front suspension off a buddies truck so I am going to put the front brackets on the rear mounts and modify the removable brace to clear the pinion. Then I can put a piece of plate on it for a little protection.