hmm...lift thoughts

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
ok, so here goes...off the deep end.

rusty's coils

bastid pack for the rear.

adj. track bar or reloc. bracket

extended lines in the front

re-bend/re-locate rear lines

shock extenders or longer shocks

sway bar disconnects for front/remove rear

AA SYE

junkyard front shaft in rear

8.25 conversion. (abs gone?)


Am I not thinking of anything? Not sure on height yet...

going to bed now...haha!

B
 

IXNAYXJ

Adventurer
The SYE isn't necessary depending on how high you go (and which drivetrain/year you have), correct length shocks are highly advisable. I know it's always everyone's goal to keep things cheap, but is there a reason you're cutting so many corners? I've found it's cheaper to do it right once than do it several times.

-----Matt-----
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
The SYE isn't necessary depending on how high you go (and which drivetrain/year you have), correct length shocks are highly advisable. I know it's always everyone's goal to keep things cheap, but is there a reason you're cutting so many corners? I've found it's cheaper to do it right once than do it several times.

-----Matt-----

cutting corners? hmmm...thoughful, inexpensive, reliable mods are what I listed, in my opinion.

1. putting together a leaf pack from an s10 and an xj is a very well-thought out and very popular, proven way to achieve the rate/lift desired for very little money. New u-bolts, spring clamps, and spring pins.

2. using a junkyard/rebuilt front driveshaft from another xj, combined with a quality SYE equals front and rear driveshafts that are exactly the same, necessitating carrying only one spare. This also means:

- If primary rear driveshaft fails or is damaged: put in spare
- If spare fails or is damaged: pull front driveshaft and put in rear making you 2wd, but very much moving down the highway/trail at speed.

3. rusty's coils. this is up for grabs, it depends on sales/pricing, etc.

4. adjustable track bar or bracket...whoever has best reputation/quality

5. Detours offroad has a nice set of shock extenders that would allow using a stock sized shock or similar sized shock, that could be purchased at any autoparts store, anywhere, rather than a non-stock sized "lift kit" shock

6. JKS sway bar disconnects. Pretty much the best on the market. no question there.

7. extended, quality brake lines in front. bend/relocate mounting points in rear due to reports that rear length is not a problem until one lifts past 3.5-4"

8. 8.25 rear axle, 29 spline, very tough, makes the rear end a strong point rather than a weak link.


Does that answer your question? Thanks for asking!!
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
I've found it's cheaper to do it right once than do it several times.

x10

Overall your plan looks good. Personally I would replace the flex brake lines with the YJ (IIRC)ones (that's what I did) since the lines do go bad. If you swap new ones in that are longer, then you kind of kill two birds with one stone.

BTW, it took me a year of collecting parts, buying individual parts as I found deals or had the money. Once I had the majority of parts, then I started the lift.
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
x10

Overall your plan looks good. Personally I would replace the flex brake lines with the YJ (IIRC)ones (that's what I did) since the lines do go bad. If you swap new ones in that are longer, then you kind of kill two birds with one stone.

BTW, it took me a year of collecting parts, buying individual parts as I found deals or had the money. Once I had the majority of parts, then I started the lift.

yeah, like I said, I've only heard "reports" that its a non-issue. It'd be an easy thing to have on hand just in case.

I like the idea of the bastid pack, because I honestly am going for less than three inches of lift, and don't want to pay $695.00 for a set of national springs, nor do I want to put in an AAL that will just sag. There's been huge amount of people doing this mod for several years that have settled at about 2.5-3" with very good flex and comfort for less that $50.00 in some cases, once pins/ubolts/clamps are purchased...

This amount of lift also shouldn't require the use of a SYE, I'm aware of that.... I'm mostly going to get one due to current pricing, the future ability of being able to run a double cardon shaft, the beefy 32 spline output, the ability to pull a shaft without fluid loss, and for the moment the ability to run a front shaft for redundancy. :)

Oh, and add a Currie steering setup to the list, too. I haven't found any negatives to that setup, except the price, which i think I'll just save up for. :D
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
cutting corners? hmmm...thoughful, inexpensive, reliable mods are what I listed, in my opinion.

1. putting together a leaf pack from an s10 and an xj is a very well-thought out and very popular, proven way to achieve the rate/lift desired for very little money. New u-bolts, spring clamps, and spring pins.

Not sure I 100% agree with this solution. Yes it is popular because it is cheap. You are still band aid fixing this by using the S10 spring to compensate for an incorrect XJ spring. A high quality spring will be better in the long run.

2. using a junkyard/rebuilt front driveshaft from another xj, combined with a quality SYE equals front and rear driveshafts that are exactly the same, necessitating carrying only one spare. This also means:

- If primary rear driveshaft fails or is damaged: put in spare
- If spare fails or is damaged: pull front driveshaft and put in rear making you 2wd, but very much moving down the highway/trail at speed.

Yep, a good call and reasoning.

3. rusty's coils. this is up for grabs, it depends on sales/pricing, etc.

I'm using them but because I got a deal. Working fine but I have a feeling with the new bumper and winch, I might have to change it.

4. adjustable track bar or bracket...whoever has best reputation/quality

I have been VERY happy with my TnT one. One of the toughest on the market. Replaces the frame mount too.

5. Detours offroad has a nice set of shock extenders that would allow using a stock sized shock or similar sized shock, that could be purchased at any autoparts store, anywhere, rather than a non-stock sized "lift kit" shock

Buy the correct length Bilstein shocks and you will never have to replace them. Stock rated shocks will not be the best for the additional spring rate and could result in a poor ride. Bilstein's have a firmer rate to compliment the additional spring rates of typical lifts.

6. JKS sway bar disconnects. Pretty much the best on the market. no question there.

100% on the money

7. extended, quality brake lines in front. bend/relocate mounting points in rear due to reports that rear length is not a problem until one lifts past 3.5-4"

See my comments above. Replace old line with YJ ones, which bolt up but are about 3" longer

8. 8.25 rear axle, 29 spline, very tough, makes the rear end a strong point rather than a weak link.

Would only consider this swap IF the 8.25 has the correct gear ratio. If you're not regearing (front and back) with the lift, don't waste your time just swapping in the 8.25. Your D35 will be fine unless you go to 33" tires. If you are going to regear, then do the swap, as you are going to spend the money in parts and labor, use the better axle when doing it. Remember the cost to regear is front and rear. Gets $$$


Does that answer your question? Thanks for asking!!
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
cutting corners? hmmm...thoughful, inexpensive, reliable mods are what I listed, in my opinion.

1. putting together a leaf pack from an s10 and an xj is a very well-thought out and very popular, proven way to achieve the rate/lift desired for very little money. New u-bolts, spring clamps, and spring pins.

Not sure I 100% agree with this solution. Yes it is popular because it is cheap. You are still band aid fixing this by using the S10 spring to compensate for an incorrect XJ spring. A high quality spring will be better in the long run.

2. using a junkyard/rebuilt front driveshaft from another xj, combined with a quality SYE equals front and rear driveshafts that are exactly the same, necessitating carrying only one spare. This also means:

- If primary rear driveshaft fails or is damaged: put in spare
- If spare fails or is damaged: pull front driveshaft and put in rear making you 2wd, but very much moving down the highway/trail at speed.

Yep, a good call and reasoning.

3. rusty's coils. this is up for grabs, it depends on sales/pricing, etc.

I'm using them but because I got a deal. Working fine but I have a feeling with the new bumper and winch, I might have to change it.

4. adjustable track bar or bracket...whoever has best reputation/quality

I have been VERY happy with my TnT one. One of the toughest on the market. Replaces the frame mount too.

5. Detours offroad has a nice set of shock extenders that would allow using a stock sized shock or similar sized shock, that could be purchased at any autoparts store, anywhere, rather than a non-stock sized "lift kit" shock

Buy the correct length Bilstein shocks and you will never have to replace them. Stock rated shocks will not be the best for the additional spring rate and could result in a poor ride. Bilstein's have a firmer rate to compliment the additional spring rates of typical lifts.

6. JKS sway bar disconnects. Pretty much the best on the market. no question there.

100% on the money

7. extended, quality brake lines in front. bend/relocate mounting points in rear due to reports that rear length is not a problem until one lifts past 3.5-4"

See my comments above. Replace old line with YJ ones, which bolt up but are about 3" longer

8. 8.25 rear axle, 29 spline, very tough, makes the rear end a strong point rather than a weak link.

Would only consider this swap IF the 8.25 has the correct gear ratio. If you're not regearing (front and back) with the lift, don't waste your time just swapping in the 8.25. Your D35 will be fine unless you go to 33" tires. If you are going to regear, then do the swap, as you are going to spend the money in parts and labor, use the better axle when doing it. Remember the cost to regear is front and rear. Gets $$$


Does that answer your question? Thanks for asking!!

We'll have to agree to dissagree on the spring pack. I know some guys running a hybrid pack that have been doing so for years, with no ill effects
and no sag, unlike most replacement XJ springs. One thing I will have to check, though, is if my springs have an "S" in them. In that case, I'd say I'm looking a new spring pack altogether, which would be a completely different case.


8.25 has 3.55's :) and I'm going to end up running 245-75 R16s or 235-85-r16's probably, but I'm not quite sure on total lift and tire size yet. not too worried about gearing just yet, I'll have to feel it with the larger tires. I like the lower rev's on the freeway for mpg's...just so long as I'm not stressin' the tranny. I drive about 62mph on the freeway with a very light foot, so I'll likely not notice any power loss.

Good to know on the rusty's, I forgot that that's what you ran.
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
We'll have to agree to dissagree on the spring pack. I know some guys running a hybrid pack that have been doing so for years, with no ill effects
and no sag, unlike most replacement XJ springs. One thing I will have to check, though, is if my springs have an "S" in them. In that case, I'd say I'm looking a new spring pack altogether, which would be a completely different case.


8.25 has 3.55's :) and I'm going to end up running 245-75 R16s or 235-85-r16's probably, but I'm not quite sure on total lift and tire size yet. not too worried about gearing just yet, I'll have to feel it with the larger tires. I like the lower rev's on the freeway for mpg's...just so long as I'm not stressin' the tranny. I drive about 62mph on the freeway with a very light foot, so I'll likely not notice any power loss.

Good to know on the rusty's, I forgot that that's what you ran.

Your call on the springs. I like my OME's.

As for gearing, the 245/75-16 (which is what I run) with 4.10 gearing will keep everything as it is with stock tires and 3.55's. RPM's, accelleration, MPG all stayed the same for me. The 4.0L doesn't like to be lugged and finding the sweet spot (2400-2800 rpm's) will give you the best mileage. Without the trailer, at 70mph, we get 21-22 mpg. With the trailer, using 3rd gear most of the time, 65mph, we get 18-19mpg. 3.55's with the taller tires, you are going to see a drop in mileage (assuming you correct the speedo gear for the tire size), even worse towing.

Make sure you add an external tranny cooler to keep the tranny alive.
 

StumpXJ

SE Expedition Society
I dont see the need to spend the money on the JKS disco's. I have a set and they have been unhooked for months, and I am driving my XJ daily right now. I will sell them to you for a good price if you still think you need them.

I agree with you on the rest of the stuff except the shock extenders. That is a definite bandaid. Spend the money on good bilsteins or ome's.

~James
 

SWbySWesty

Fauxverland Extraodinaire
I went with the "do it right the first time" mentality. Rubicon Express Long Arm 5.5 inch Heavy Duty lift kit.

Contact FullsizeXJGear for a NAXJA price that CANNOT be beat. I got the RE monotube shocks, and will eventually upgrade to 2'' Fox bypasses since I'm planning to "go fast". There is no substitute for getting quality the first time. :)

but i'm a newb and wanted a kit and didn't want to piece things together since I don't know enough about that part :)
 

Momrocks

Adventurer
I dont see the need to spend the money on the JKS disco's. I have a set and they have been unhooked for months, and I am driving my XJ daily right now.

~James

Lots of good advice in this thread. I would however caution against full disregard of the front swaybar. At least experiment before totally pitching the links. Stump is credible and is having luck with no swaybar but other factors like spring rate etc. come into play. Don't take risks especially since you have kiddie seats in back.

x10, source appropriate length quality shock.

I love my Currie steering but its beef and strength far exceeds the stresses my driving style and terrain place on it. Overkill for my situation. I would have been well served sourcing V8 Grand Cherokee parts as an upgrade...food for thought.

On the topic of Junk Yard Jewels, there are lots of YJs, TJs and XJs showing up in the junkyards with SYEs, keep your eyes peeled. One more plug for the V8 Grand Cherokee, front springs are a nice upgrade for XJs. They have a little higher spring rate and net 1.5-2" lift. You can adjust your total desired lift with a 3/4" or 1.5 inch coil isolator.

I myself am a believer in full spring packs for the rear. They really aren't that expensive. National Spring or Deaver custom packs are spendy but I was thinking along the lines of RE, OME and similar. Lots of guys are satisfied with bastard packs but the tinkering and tuning takes lots of time and knuckle skin to dial in right. I don't want to tear into my leafs that many times. That's just me.

XJs are great because they can be upgraded and modded on the cheap. It just takes some forethought and planning and it looks to me like you are doing that. Good luck.

BTW, I'm running 245/75-16 on 3 inches lift and 3.55 ratio and find it to be a very good combination for a double duty rig. I think you'll be happy with it.
 

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
If you go the junkyard route on springs try to find a donor vehicle with low miles on it.

With spring steel the total number of fatigue cycles is the devil. Less mileage means less fatigue cycles which means the springs will last longer.

I'm generally not a fan of used springs but if you can do it for $50 then sure, why not give it a go?

Get a quality shock. I'm not a fan of extenders or even BPEs for that matter. As for field replacement, if you blow a shock somehow (seen a tree root wreck a shock once) it's not a big deal to drive on the missing part for a while as long as you are sane about it.

I'm a fan of the front drive shaft in the rear mod. If I had my time over again I may go that route.
 

BigAl

Expedition Leader
If you have the time and patience you can get the exact ride height and flex you want by making up your own spring packs, but it is a lot of work. My spring packs are home assembled using different leaves. I think the home brews tend to sag faster than a new lift spring. Conversly new lift springs are always a little stiff.
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
I went with the "do it right the first time" mentality. Rubicon Express Long Arm 5.5 inch Heavy Duty lift kit.

Contact FullsizeXJGear for a NAXJA price that CANNOT be beat. I got the RE monotube shocks, and will eventually upgrade to 2'' Fox bypasses since I'm planning to "go fast". There is no substitute for getting quality the first time. :)

but i'm a newb and wanted a kit and didn't want to piece things together since I don't know enough about that part :)

thanks for the info, I'm definitely working on a budget, but I also like doing research and don't mind taking the route I mentioned (or like XJmike has talked about)

RE kits sound pretty awesome, to be sure. I'll talk to the bloke you mentioned to see what that price looks like! thanks again. I haven't added up my costs yet, so I'll have to see how they compare.
 

BIGdaddy

Expedition Leader
If you go the junkyard route on springs try to find a donor vehicle with low miles on it.

With spring steel the total number of fatigue cycles is the devil. Less mileage means less fatigue cycles which means the springs will last longer.

I'm generally not a fan of used springs but if you can do it for $50 then sure, why not give it a go?

Get a quality shock. I'm not a fan of extenders or even BPEs for that matter. As for field replacement, if you blow a shock somehow (seen a tree root wreck a shock once) it's not a big deal to drive on the missing part for a while as long as you are sane about it.

I'm a fan of the front drive shaft in the rear mod. If I had my time over again I may go that route.



okey-dokey, I'm hearin' you guys on the correct length shock discussion. I
see the point of it not being a big "need to have" item if one is blown, I think I'll shift my paradigm to include new, correct shocks...

cool.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,530
Messages
2,875,579
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top