Engine Swap...long post

I know how these threads usually go....everyone who has an opinion about what engine is best and will want to tell me to use XYZ engine. Believe me I've considered many (Stroker, GM 4.2 i6, GM 4.8 v8, GM 5.3 v8, ect, ect..) and am still on the fence. But this time, I'm JUST looking for tips, insight, experience, expertise on the following....

I'm hoping to swap a 2008+ Dodge Dakota drivetrain (4.7 v8 + 545RFE + NV243) into my 1998 Jeep Cherokee since my engine is starting to show wear. This is the "same" engine as used in the Jeep WK / XK and therefor I'd be "keeping it Jeep" even though it's coming out of a dodge. I chose the Dodge Dakota version because I feel like the PCM will be tuned more for HD use than the PCM used in the WK or XK. To that end, I suppose Dodge Ram 4.7 & drivetrain would work as well, if not better, and even offer a bit more power and HD-ness.

On with the details....

I am planning to utilize the Dakota throttle pedal and also the Dakota gauge cluster to simplify the fuel & engine monitoring needs. I plan to get the majority of the exhaust so that the swap will work with my local emissions regulations. Since I can't find a way to bypass it, I'm also hoping to get an original ignition key & switch for the vehicle I get, so that I can use it to work with the SKIM system. Lastly, I may try to swap the NV243 for my current NP231 if the electronics & fitment will allow it.

To show that I'm not just trying to get others to do the "leg work" for me, I present to you all, my current findings.

Starting in 2008 dodge revamped the 4.7l v8 to output*:

302hp @ 4,600 RPM's - 330ft lbs @ 3,600 RPM - w/a Max RPM of 6,000
*Dakota Specs

I consistently find them going for anywhere from $2,800 - $1,800 on car-part.com (searched using '08, Dodge Dakota, engine & Midwest as criteria)

Besides the many public forums and personal websites I've browsed looking for answers, I also used the following for insight:

www.backwoodsoffroad.com

www.burnsvilleoffroad.com

www.dodge.com

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/47.html

http://www.dodgeforum.com/forum/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dodge_Dakota#2005-present

I've also contacted several of these companies as well as many service departments @ local Dodge dealerships. So far I've got nothing back.

Some highlights:

EPA Estimated 22mpg (in a stock 2wd Dakota)

E85 compatible & can handle “low” 87 Octane (presumably 85 at my elevations)

Electronic shifting part time 4wd system (possibly change to manual shift?)

5spd automatic transmission http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_RFE_transmission

(5th is another overdrive gear, which is good for highway MPG)

136amp alternator


For swap, get: engine (from oil pan to intake), partial exhaust (to include cats) transmission, transfercase , complete wiring harness, PCM (ie: any computer stuff) AND the gauge cluster & throttle pedal from the donor vehicle (if its drive by wire).


So the questions, that I still have are:

1. Can you tell me if the PCM monitors the transfercase?

2. What fuel pressure does the Dakota pump push?

3. Is the Dakota a return-less fuel system?

4. Is there any way to bypass the SKIM module?

5a. Will exhaust manifolds off of a 2002 Grand Cherokee v8 fit on the 2008 Dakota v8?

5b. Are the manifolds the same? If not, I'm thinking the GC ones might be required to fit the narrow frame of the XJ

6. Where can I find measurements for this engine?

7. Where can I find a full factory service manual for this vehicle?

8. Does the Dodge incorporate anything like the Torque Management feature found in GM PCM's?​


Are any other electrical items I need to be concerned about for this swap?

Any other advice you would offer?

Perhaps there's an easier way to perform this swap that I'm overlooking?


A big thanks in advance for any help/tips/advice anyone can offer.

:smiley_drive:
 
Last edited:

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Having been part of an LS1/4L60E swap into a YJ that started back in about '98 & finished in 2003 (long story) I would HIGHLY recommend that you get the whole donor vehicle. The bits and pieces that you may not realize that you need until you find that you need them can be a serious drain on the budget.

For instance, you can then pull the entire fuel supply system out of the donor and re-form it for use in your vehicle. My guess would be returnless given the vintage of the potential donor, but having the whole vehicle would solve the question.

For CARB compliance you would need to use all of the stock intake system from the first sensor on to the engine and the exhaust system to the last O2 sensor. None of that can be changed. Not sure what your area might require.
 
....... I would HIGHLY recommend that you get the whole donor vehicle.......

I've considered this to be the best route to go, for the exact reasons you stated. However, I'm not exactly sure how to source an entire vehicle, but I've been in touch with my insurance agent in hopes of getting my hands on a totaled donor before it goes to salvage.

Any other ideas of how to source one?
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
Know any tow company owners?
A good friend of mine has a tow company next door to his 4x4 shop. Has been mutually beneficial many times.

Even if you don't know any, you might make contact with a couple and check back time to time. Most have storage lots and cars & trucks for sale.
 

JeepN95YJ

Adventurer
I've considered this to be the best route to go, for the exact reasons you stated. However, I'm not exactly sure how to source an entire vehicle, but I've been in touch with my insurance agent in hopes of getting my hands on a totaled donor before it goes to salvage.

Any other ideas of how to source one?

I whole-heartedly agree on this one. My first swap started with a cheap engine and transmission. After the rebuild, new accessories, plumbing, wiring, etc., my costs were FAR from cheap. I'm sure a complete vehicle donor would have been best.

In my area, we have several salvage yards that sell "rebuilders" or other crashed vehicles for parts. Do you folks have similar facilities?
 
Yeah, but I'm looking for the best deal and typically the salvage yards want an arm & a leg for a "rebuilder". I'm hoping other avenues would give me a better deal. Sort of a "cutting out the middle man" approach. :ylsmoke:

EDIT: I just called several salvage yards; none would sell a complete totaled vehicle, and they all wanted around $3k for a take-out. My hope is that, by purchasing from a source "higher in the chain", I can cut $1k - $2k off of that price. ;)
 
Last edited:

02TahoeMD

Explorer
definitely get the entire donor vehicle....

Back in my college days I helped a friend do something similar with his Camaro. He had a plain jane V6 camaro he wanted to hot rod, and bought a totaled out Z28 for the go-fun parts. About 6 months later we had finished up a pretty nice sleeper, and having that Z28 wreck sitting in the back yard was a definite lifesaver.

So, that said, you may want to look around for some auction sites to get your donor wreck. There is a large regional auction here in town that insurance companies send their wrecks to , and the hulks get towed away by their new owners. It may also be worthwhile to start calling around to junk yards some distance away as you just may be able to find what you need and find someone willing to do business with you. Borrow a trailer and take a day trip or an overnight trip and you could get a major score. I have even seen some wrecks sold on Craigslist of all places so it will pay to shop far and wide.
 

78Bronco

Explorer
I think you are dreaming. It takes a lot of time and money, more money to pull this off. That and the fact you're dealing with a unibody vehicle so motor mount engineering will be critical for a long lasting reliable design.

I would find a donor 4.0L HO motor from an XJ and stroke it out to 4.6 or 4.7L displacement. Then swap out your old junk for the fresh unit. Plug it in and drive.
 

78Bronco

Explorer
4.7L medium-buck stroker

~ Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
~ Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
~ Custom +0.060" bore pistons with 1.38" pin height & 25cc dish
~ 9.6:1 CR
~ Crane #753905 204/216 degree camshaft
~ Ported big valve 2.02"/1.60" cylinder head
~ Mopar Performance 0.043" head gasket
~ 0.043" quench height
~ Flometrics F&B 68mm billet TB
~ Accel 26lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR or MAP adjuster for '87-'95 engines, Accel 26lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines.
~ 270hp @ 4800rpm, 335lbft @ 3400rpm

4.8L medium-buck stroker

Option 1: Same as above except:
~ Custom 4.0" bore pistons with 1.38" pin height & 24cc dish
~ 10.0:1 CR
~ CompCams #68-235-4 210/218 degree camshaft
~ 284hp @ 4900rpm, 345lbft @ 3600rpm


4.9L high-buck stroker

~ 3.98" offset-ground stroker crank
~ Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
~ Small Block Chevy UEM-KB142 hypereutectic pistons
~ 10.5:1 CR
~ Crane #753941 216/228 degree camshaft
~ Ported big valve 2.02"/1.60" cylinder head
~ Mill block deck 0.015"
~ Mopar Performance 0.043" head gasket
~ 0.055" quench height
~ Flometrics F&B 68mm billet TB
~ 3.0" exhaust system
~ Ford 30lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR or MAP adjuster for '87-'95 engines, Ford 30lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines.
~ Custom PCM programming
~ 299hp @ 5000rpm, 353lbft @ 3700rpm

The inline six is the better motor:)
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,911
Messages
2,879,535
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top