Alaska 2009

locrwln

Expedition Leader
I'm digging it. Paints a more realistic, everyday (Down to earth) picture of overlanding in Alaska.

No kidding. This has been great. My wife and I are heading up there next year, unfortunately, we won't be able to go until September. We are going to be on the end of the "season" for Prudhoe bay, but that is part of the adventure. Plus we only have three weeks to do it in.

Much like you, we will be in our F350 PSD with our 10' Lance camper. Should be fun.

We both really enjoyed your write-up so far. :wings:

Jack
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Yes, AWESOME report. :26_7_2:

One of these days I will do this...:elkgrin:

Wife and I are going to Alaska next year but we will cruise up and fly back. My hope is that she gets bit by the "alaska bug" and either agrees to the drive (not likely, she's not a road trip person) or at the very least, agrees to another trip where I'll drive up and then meet her in Anchorage, and we'll tour a bit on our own before I send her back on a plane and I drive back myself.
 

canadianjk

New member
Great reports, I don't know that I could ever get sick of reading peoples trip reports and looking at photos. I get a kick out of reading about people that are passing through Grande Prairie and Dawson Creek, I really take for granted where I live and the fact that I get to drive these roads daily. It motivates me to get out and explore more.
 

fisher205

Explorer
August 1

Some jerks pulled into the campground at 3:30 in the morning. 40 some places to park and they pull in next to me, then leave. I pack up early and head north of town on the Lil Susitna River. It took me a while to find it. The state troopers are also the conservation officers and I get checked and told that the little Su is closed to Salmon fishing. I fish for trout and Dolly Varden without success.

I go back to Wasilla and wash the pickup. I then go to the Alaskan Transportation museum. It’s done by volunteers so isn’t very professional but still pretty interesting and fun place and well worth a visit. Well worth the visit. I stop by McDonald’s so I can use the wifi. It’s just an access thing that you have to pay for. I don’t think I’ll be going back to McDonald’s anymore (isn’t there song called that?).

I go back out to the spot that I fished at this morning. It’s a beautiful place and a few miles out of town so I think it should be quiet. I swear this place is busier than grand central station. There have been kids riding their 4 wheeler through the creek. People coming and going. I was afraid it was going to be the Saturday night party spot. There is someone up the road either breaking wood or shooting a 22. This place is crazy. I guess I’ve got to get farther in the country. 200,460 8 miles

August 2

My fears last night were realized. It was the kid’s party spot. I think there were at least 3 parties going on around me. Each group was competing with the volume of their music and everybody yelling or screaming over it. I packed up and headed to town. I soon found out Wal-Mart does not allow overnight parking at their store. I ended up back out at Lake Lucille. I was now the jerk pulling in at 3 in the morning. But guess what? There is a group of guys still up, drinking and yelling. They didn’t have music and I was so tired I was able to sleep through it.

I talked to Sherri and Stella this morning. They were driving back from Lawrence KS, so had a long day in front of them. I stopped by the visitor’s center to check my email. The lady in there was very talkative, since I was the only one that had stopped in. I never did see Sarah. Anchorage wasn’t too bad to get through and most of the drive towards Seward wasn’t too bad. There was a wreck just past Girdwood that I had to wait on. I think a kid lost his boat trailer on a corner and it had spun him around.

I camped at Ptarmigan Campground. I got set up and took a little nap. The two guys camped next to me were brothers from Arizona. They’ve been on the road for 2 months just fly fishing all over. They were a couple of characters. It was like listening to the Mackenzie brothers when they retire. Anyway they had some good practical suggestions on the fishing and some good stories. They’re headed to Valdez in the morning. I may catch up to them in a couple of days. They’re planning on taking the ferry from Valdez to Prince Rupert. 200,687 238 miles

August 3

I got a good night’s sleep for a change. I head to the Kenai Fjord Park first and hike up to the Glacier. I am following a dad and his 5-6 year old son. The kid says” dad all we do on this vacation is walk around and look at stuff. When are going to do some hard math? “ the dad and I both crack up and the dad says” what kind of hard math?” The kid replies” You know like 200 plus 200” Kids keep it interesting.

I drive into Seward and go to the Aquarium. They have some good exhibits and the animals, birds and fish are mostly rescue items. Their job is to continue to research how the Valdez incident is affecting the sound.

I walk around town and the harbor for a while. I enjoy being in Seward. I think it would suck on a weekend, but fairly quiet today. I got a halibut taco. It just wasn’t as good as my own. I then headed towards Homer. I stopped about 45 miles from Seward at Quartz Creek to camp and fished for a couple of hours with the usual lack of success. It’s real interesting to watch the red salmon come up and spawn. I accidentally snagged a couple of them, but they broke off. It was kind of exciting for a few minutes.
200,770 87 miles

August 4

I got up fairly early this morning and head out. I stop in Soldotna and do laundry. It starts to rain as I’m finishing up my laundry. The wind and rain keep up all the way down to Homer.

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The rain let up a little bit and I’m set up camp out on the spit.

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I walk over to the boardwalk and look around. There is a sea otter swimming around the docks. Actually it is just floating on its back grooming itself. I watch it for a while then while I was walking away another sea otter came swimming by. I have a couple of beers at the Salty Dawg. While I’m there I have a good conversation with one of the locals about beers, fishing, bird hunting and hunting dogs. All things of importance. I then have supper at a grill on the docks. Good meal. I head back to the camper and watch the tide go out.
200,922 160 miles

August 5

Rain is coming down when I wake up. I lie in bed and watch the sport fishing boats go out in the channel. I get up, have a quick breakfast and decide to use a lull in the rain to get going.

I had talked to Sherri’s brother last night and I will try to meet up with him and their dad over by Whitehorse Yukon in a few days. We might be able to fish together over there. We’ll play phone tag for a few days.

It’s drizzling on me all the way to Soldotna. I stop in and get a shower at the Laundromat.
Clean clothes and a clean body I feel pretty human again. It’s still raining most of the time and very overcast. I decide to head on through Anchorage and then accidentally go on through Palmer. I should find a place to change the oil in this rig. I get a little longer drive in today. It wasn’t pleasant to stop and do anything and I couldn’t see much due to the low clouds. I come close to having a wreck today. A double truck was swinging wide for a corner in Anchorage and I didn’t even notice it. I just about got “pinched” at the apex of the turn. I have cussed a few boneheaded drivers on this trip, but was I the one this time. I really pissed the truck driver off. I felt really stupid. I usually stay very aware of these types of situations.

I stay in a pleasant state campground called King hill. It’s finally stopped raining so I get a little walk in and clean the camper out. I will head for McCarthy/Kennicott tomorrow.
201,215 308 miles
August 6, 2009

At 3:30 in the morning I awoke to the sound of rain. It was still raining when I woke up the second time at 6:30. It was pretty chilly and damp feeling so I turned the heat on (I fixed it again yesterday) for a little bit and started the morning coffee water and went back to bed for a little bit.

It’s foggy out and light drizzle coming down as I packed up and took off. Visibility is down to a ¼ of a mile or less most of the morning. There is no sense is in stopping at all the viewing areas. I stop in Glennallen and return a phone call from a friend of mine in Anchorage. We had missed each other when I went through. I’ll call him when I know I’ll be in Valdez and he might fly over. The weather starts to clear up while we are talking. I stop near the Tazlina River for lunch. It is flowing pretty fast. I then stop at the Wrangell-St Elias National Park visitor’s center. They have a good introductory movie and some nice exhibits.

The day is turning out pretty nice. I head down the Edgerton-McCarthy road. There are some beautiful views of the Copper River. At Chitina I start on the McCarthy road. It was originally an old railroad line that served the Kennicott Mine. It’s pretty narrow and rough but not any problems; that is until I got to the Kuskulana River Bridge. It’s an old railway trestle that has been converted to a car bridge. It’s one lane, 525 feet long and 286 feet above the canyon. I don’t know which was worse. Looking down or driving with my eyes closed. I survived it.

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The superlatives have all been used up by now to describe this area. There are the ever present fires so with the smoke I don’t go on total scenery overload. I find a nice place to camp about 30 miles from McCarthy.

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I’ll go on to it in the morning and take a look around. I will probably catch one of the rides up to Kennicott mine and look at it also. I might get a glacier hike in also. We’ll see how the day goes.
201,525 208 miles

August 7

I woke up to a light rain again. I drove into the parking area west of McCarthy and walked the mile into town. I caught a shuttle up to Kennicott and hiked around there. It drizzled and light showers the whole time. I couldn’t see the mountains at all and could sometimes see Root Glacier a little. I decide not to hike up to the glacier. It is raining pretty hard and the trail is brushy with a lot of bears. All the bears are coming to this area for the soap berries. One of the trails the locals call “bear alley

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The rain lightened up and I decided to take the old wagon road back to McCarthy. It’s a 5.5 mile hike. The rain quit by the time I get to McCarthy. I walk back to the truck and decide to head out. There is another music festival here and a lot of young enthusiasts are coming in.

I drive all the way out to the Richardson Highway and go a few miles towards Valdez before camping. I get to see a cow moose and her calf. This is the first calf I see. They are really ugly. They are all legs and head. It’s like a moose head with 4 legs sticking out of it. 201,525 118 miles
 

zukrider

Explorer
Jealous! i am having a hard time deciding which of your pics i am going to use as a screen background! very nice.

thanx for the story
joe
 

fisher205

Explorer
August 8
I awake to rain and fog again. Head towards Valdez but can’t see much due to the fog. There are some great looking mountains somewhere nearby, at least from what I can tell of the bases. I do have a good view of Worthington Glacier and hike up to it. It clears a little over Thompson Pass but I still can’t see the tops of the mountains. Lot’s of waterfalls going through Keystone Canyon. It’s sprinkling again as I get to Valdez.

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I go out Day Road to the Pipeline Terminal. Two tankers are out in the port. There is a hatchery along the road. It was built for Salmon that used to go up a river that was dammed for hydro power. The salmon are stacked up clear out in the bay trying to get up this stream. I had seen the reds in the stream spawning but those are the few that had made it all the way up. This is all the pink’s just starting out. It actually is pretty amazing to see. There were bear warning signs all over, but I didn’t see any. This place would be a Bear’s buffet for sure. People were just reaching down and pulling salmon out with their hands.

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I am staying in a commercial campground for the shower and internet. I am camped next to motorcycle riders from Florida and Kansas. The guy from Kansas has been about two days ahead of me the whole trip when we compare notes. He has a blog at www.derek.motoks.com. Hopefully it clears off for tomorrow.
201,614 93miles

August 9, 2009

It’s raining again when I wake up. I turn on the heat, start the water boiling for coffee and crawl back in bed until the water is ready. I drink coffee and use a good internet connection to catch up on email.

It looks like it’s going to burn off the fog and I decide to get going. I like Valdez but there are just too many people around with a fishing derby on. I stop at the grocery and get going about 10:30. A quick stop at Valdez Glacier but it’s not marked out very well and starts to sprinkle again. So I hit the road.

It rains the whole time. So much for it burning off. That was some wishful thinking. At least today I can make out the mountains in the mists and clouds. I decide to stop at the Tonsina River Lodge. I don’t feel like putting up the camper for lunch and I am ready for something hot. The lodge is run by some Russians and I don’t know what I ordered but it was meat and vegetables served over some fried potatoes. It was pretty tasty.

I drive up the north side of the Wrangell-St Elias Park and go back on the Nabesna Road. It is raining and the road is pretty muddy. I go almost to the end and camp. You have to do 3 creek crossings to get back here. None of them are very deep. There are a lot of people around. I guess one of the sheep hunting seasons starts tomorrow. It’s still raining and I have the heat on.

August 10, 2009

It rained hard and the heat came on a few times last night but I awoke to sunshine this morning. There is a fresh dusting of snow on the higher elevations. This just helps magnify how big these mountains are that surround me. It was frustrating last night driving in here. I could feel these mountains around me but couldn’t see them. This morning’s sun reflecting off of the snow is great. I find myself taking lots of photos.

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I drive to the end of the good road and find an airstrip with a lot of planes. There are charter flights available, but I think a lot of these planes may be for the sheep hunters.

The road out is not bad. The stream crossings are up a little but still easily navigable by a go cart. The Tok Cut off is pretty new but has frost heaves. I still make good time to Tok. I find a good hot spot and take care of some banking business. A quick check of email and find out the friends I was going to meet in White Horse are all ready there and heading to Dawson. They will be in Tok tomorrow night. I guess I’ll hang here for a day.

I go find a place to get my oil changed, wash the truck and go to Tok RV and find a knob for the front screen. The guy also gives me some hydraulic fluid for my lifts. A really nice guy there. I go and stay at the Sourdough campground. When I was at Denali some people camped next to had liked it. When I pull into the spot the same people are near by.
201,939 (2 days) 341 miles

August 13, 2009

I haven’t kept this up for a few days. The Sourdough Campground is very 60’s style without much updating. It had nice private spots though. I got an email that ******** and Rick wouldn’t be in Tok for another day so I decided to leave without seeing them. They had wanted to fish with me, but the fishing around Tok wasn’t that good.

I took off for Haines and made it to Lake Kathleen B.C. The St Elias Mountain Range to my right was great company headed south. Kluane Lake is immense. I stayed at a provincial park next to Kathleen Lake.

I took off for Haines the next morning. It was partly overcast. Which means the clouds only partly covered the mountains. The road was the best of the whole trip and nobody was on it except me. I started to wonder if something happened that I didn’t know about, because I saw less people than on the Campbell Hiway.

I got into Haines and wandered around. I checked the ferry and found I could catch one tonight or early in the morning. I decide to opt for tonight. I spend a few hours up at Chilikot Lake watching the salmon fisherman before going down to load on the ferry. This is big excitement for a Midwestern boy.

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I decided on the ferry because: 1) I wanted to ride on one and 2) it saved me almost 400 miles of driving. The ferry is only 15 miles from Haines to Skagway. Anyway it was fun. It took longer to load the boat than to go to Skagway. Now the problem with the late ferry is finding a place to camp. All the campgrounds are full and you are searching with a ferry full of campers also looking for a spot. I am sure some people were smart enough to make a reservation. I am not one of those. I end up sleeping at the Chilikot trailhead when I couldn’t find the Dyea Park campground. I found it the next day. It had an awful small sign for tired eyes at night. It was smaller than the No Camping sign beside where I slept the night before.

This morning I got up early and walked up the Chilikot trail a little way. Fresh bear scat at the trail head.

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I then drove over and checked out the old Dyea town site. There is not that much to see anymore. Its history is interesting though.

I can look down at Skagway as I pull into town and there are 4 cruise ships in port. It is crazy in town. I actually enjoyed the people watching for a while before I left. There is a frantic energy with everyone. They have only so long to look before they have to get back on board. The tour people here the most rude I have run across. They act like they own the road with very little courtesy to other drivers. Half of the time they are parked so you can’t see that there is point of interest signs, and even when you do they are parked such that they have taken up the whole parking area.

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It was another scenic drive (see numerous other previous superlatives) to Whitehorse and I am doing laundry and showering. 202,506 595 miles
 

fisher205

Explorer
August 14, 2009

I get a really late start out of Whitehorse. I have trouble with the internet connection and getting some email sent. I then check out the old paddle boat, but it was a guided tour and they were all full until after lunch. I then went to the grocery store to stock up. I can’t seem to find anything in it and it is huge. Time again to get out of town.

Pretty much straight driving through some nice country. 6 weeks ago I would have been really excited about it. Now it’s just nice. I turned south before Watson Lake and I am heading down the Cassiar Highway. Stopped at a rest area and ran into this old guy that I have kept running into since going up to Prudhoe Bay. Him and his wife are in their 80’s and drove their 40 foot motor home all the way to Prudhoe Bay. It’s his 6th time up there. I had run into them again in Haines and we talked awhile there. He had told me then the trick was to take the early ferry because I wouldn’t find a place to camp, but I had already bought my ticket. He told me they rarely ever stay anyplace they have to pay for. But anyway they were heading back to their home near Bend OR, so they could get ready to go south for the winter. I have enjoyed talking to him over the miles. Tonight I am camping at Boya Lake.
202,807 316 miles

August 15, 2009

I woke up fairly early and get out of the campground. Its overcast and I decided last night not to go to telegraph Creek. I put the miles on to Meziadin Lake and will stay here tonight so I can get the morning light on the Glacier on the way to Hyder. I will check out the bears and maybe come back and stay here tonight.

I saw two black bears on the way down here. A small one was too far away and crossed the road too fast to get a picture. The second one was only a little farther up the road and stayed around a little bit to pose. It then acted annoyed and headed out into the brush. It was another day of driving through large mountains that I can only see the base of. Its late afternoon and I am waiting for the wind to die down so I can fish.
203,090 297 miles
August 16, 2009

The wind never did die down enough to fish last night. So I went to bed fairly early. It’s weird to have it be pretty dark out. The combination of being farther south and later in the summer is giving some shorter days.

I got going early again so that I could get morning sun of the Bearfoot glacier. Believe it or not… it’s overcast again. I got some good pictures of the foot of Bearfoot glacier. I drive through Stewart and Hyder. There isn’t much to see, but they seem to be agreeable towns in my way of thinking. I see the people from Texas that I met two nights ago in Hyder and talk to them a little bit. I head on up to the “bears” walkway and find out none are feeding right now. I talk to Karl from Jackson Wyoming. He has a new Alaskan and comes out every year to watch the bears. I find out there is like bear groupies that come out all the time and know all the bears and have given them names. They can tell you about the bear families and what has happened to the bears. Karl says that there were two young bears in this morning. They are 4 year old brothers and that they spent more time wrestling than fishing. Evenings are the best time for me to catch them.

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I decide to head up to Salmon glacier. The road turns into a narrow windy thing with huge drop offs (1000ft). It looks like the death road from Brazil. The only thing good is that you drive into the clouds and you can’t see over the edge anymore. You can barely see the road. I stop at the summit viewing area and stand around with a bunch of other people in the cloud. There is a guy (The Bearman) that is selling DVD’s and post cards of the glacier and the bears that he took. He tells me to keep going on the road and it will drop out of the cloud shortly. There will be good views of the glacier.

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So off I go though the clouds with a 1000 foot drop off on one side of the road. But it’s not far and does clear off and the drop off is only 900 feet. The glacier is interesting. So I keep driving on the road and come to a valley with 4 smaller glaciers and breathtaking views. The road drops into the valley and dead ended at a washed out bridge. I spend the next 2 hours over there. I then screwed up my courage and started back to the cloud in the sky road, but not before taking a side road that cut in above the glacier only about 300 feet above it. The road got narrow enough that I got out and walked. It was blocked by land slides farther up.

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I got back to the summit and the clouds had lifted above it so that I could see the Glacier and I found it was really 1500 feet down. I was nervous driving all the way down.

I got to the bears and they had shown up right after I left earlier and left just before I came back. I went to town to the “Bus” for some sea food. I had lots of people recommend it. So I met Diane the owner and Deb her helper and had some halibut. Also the two guys I had camped next too in Homer were there.

I went back up to the bears and the brothers showed up while I was there. It was like movie stars were coming. People were announcing them. Everyone lined up along the viewing platforms to see them. Well the bros put on another show. They spent most of their time fighting and playing than fishing. I think about half the fish they caught were used more to tease each other with than to eat.

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Anyway as you can tell from this post it was a long and eventful day.
203,198 113 miles
 
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HMR

Rendezvous Conspiracy
Thanks for the GREAT story and pics!

Looks like I missed you by 6 weeks. Wish I could've bought you lunch and drooled over your camper.

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Ford Prefect

Expedition Leader
awe those bears are DANCING! How presuous!

haha

Very cool shots, and congrats one being able to see such things. Looks like great fun.

(though I am honestly a little nervous about seeing bears of any size that up close and personal... )
 

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