Recommended 03 F250 CC preparations??

TruckinFool

New member
I know rigs a little long but I already have it and not sure ifs worth selling for a shorter wheelbase SD. Our exact plans are still evolving but it will see a wide variety of terrain. (Colorado Mts, Utah deserts, Wooded,muddy mountains, creek crossings, Beach/dunes etc.) Its an 03 F250 CC FX4 shortbed with the 7.3l (140k) Electronic 4wd and auto locking hubs. What are you guys doing to these trucks suspension wise to turn them into rock solid expo vehicles? I have a thing for pushing hard and do not like getting beat on trails. Couple that with the torque of the powerstroke plus weight of the truck and you can see my concern.

I have the basics rolling around in my head but what actually works? Im not used to wheeling with this kind of weight/circumstances and would love to hear what you guys run.

Basics:
Light pop up bed camper
Leveling kit
35's on steel wheels plus 2 full spare
frame mounted air tank with compressor
Some sort of diff swap out. Air Lockers, clutch type??
Rear air bags? Brands? will auto leveling help offroad body roll with camper?
replace all bushings etc
Maybe swap out electronic transfer case for manual if good cause?
Should I be looking for more articulation? NBS front suspension swap in order?
swap for stronger axles? front? rear?
Are the F250 rails going to take all this? haha perfect last question, I know lol

looking forward to hearing from ya!
 

leverett

Observer
one the axles are pleanty strong as for locker how much are you considering to spent. and now for the questions... if you are gunna have a camper where are you putting your two spare tires. and what do you mean by "rails"
 

leverett

Observer
you should be ok with an electric transfer case the only thing is i would swap your hubs to manual. maybe a mild lift and some larger tires.
 

stioc

Expedition Leader
While I can't offer any technical suggestions, I can offer some encouragement :smiley_drive:

http://www.everymilesamemory.com/our_truck.htm

444694002_ucEGY-M-1.jpg


http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31282&page=2

attachment.php
 

jim65wagon

TundraBird1
It should make a fine expedition style ride. While I can't provide any useful Ford specific info, I can say:

My electronic shift case has been fine.
Taller tires help your long wheelbase breakover - 35's should be worthwhile.
The frame mounted air tank is great. Mine is a 2.5 gallon and fits right inside my framerail. It's out of the way, and still accessible if I need to drain the tank, or fix an air line.
Air lockers would be the cat's, um, meow.
I shied away from airbags. I know several have not had any problems with them, but I didn't want another system to keep checking on...I cheated and got a set of Air Lift Air Cells, (poly overloads that replace the bumpstops) they're only slightly noticeable unloaded, and keep the truck level and very stable with a fairly heavy load.
 

ujoint

Supporting Sponsor
For the SD, there are a few great upgrades that will make a pretty damn good truck even better. As stated above, get rid of those plastic factory hubs and install some Warn premium units. I wouldn't bother with the t-case swap, but if it bugs you then go for it! To fit the 35's, I would install a 4" lift from ICON vehicle dynamics (formerly Donahoe) They have the best riding springs out there, and Bilstein shocks will make it even better. I would run a dual front, single rear, Bilstein 5150 series. 170/60 valving up front, 255/70 in the rear. Replace the rear springs as well, don't just add a block. ---- A standard airbag system from Firestone will work good, with an in cab control so you can adjust as needed. It will need a spacer to compensate for the lift. A good onboard air system is worth it's weight in gold, so don't skimp. I'm running the Warn VTC along with a 2.5 gallon tank, plumbed to my airbags & front/rear quick connects. You can fab up a new skid plate for the t-case and make it hold the air system too. --- For the axles, I wouldn't recommend a front locker. A good limited slip will keep you from breaking anything up front and get you out of most situations. My personal preference is a Detroit rear, Powerlock or Tru Trac up front. The ultimate front axle upgrade is the Dynatrac free spin hub conversion. If you do all of this, you'll have a pretty bad *** rig that will get ya there & back!!!!!! (in comfort of course!!)
 

TruckinFool

New member
one the axles are pleanty strong as for locker how much are you considering to spent. and now for the questions... if you are gunna have a camper where are you putting your two spare tires. and what do you mean by "rails"

Edit**
Thats a short list and very encouraging but im running into some space problems already. The miss keeps pushing for a bathroom and If I fight this I know its going to end up hurting the longevity of the trip. Figuring out a suitable bathroom has me stumped. Anything that allows for an actual room with a toilet seems to handicap the truck to the point that its not worth the offroad compromise of rig of that size. Im thinking maybe an xterra or FJ with modded popup pull behind might be the way to go?
 
Last edited:

Mike S

Sponsor - AutoHomeUSA
I have an '01 SD 7.3. Standard upgrades would include

Ford HD Air Intake system
Dyna Trac spindles and hubs
Might look at a custom tranny valve body
Pyrometer gauge
SLIGHTLY larger tires (I went to 285/75/R16 M55s)
Sliders probably a good idea
Brush bar or ARB bumper

OME now makes a suspension system for these trucks. I have no experience with them, but have loved the OME stuff in my two Landcruisers.
 
Last edited:

Capt Sport

Adventurer
Leverett,

I would say based on your expected uses for your truck you won't need to do much. Assuming your not planning on rock crawling, your truck should be fine. I do think adding a locker at least in the rear diff is a good idea, I've used a Detroit in my old Jeep and it worked great and they are bullet proof. They do take some getting used to as they will cause the truck to lurch to the left when it engages. The harder you stomp on it when pulling away the more pronounced the lurch. However, I put well over 100K on mine and never had a problem and the lurching was minor at most. On slippery road you do need to be aware of it as if your not paying attention your truck will want to slide the back end around. Easily compensated for by counter steering.

35's are a good idea as you'll gain ground clearance, but I'd go (I did go) with an AT type tire as Mud tires hum. Yes all of them hum to some degree and they typically don't wear as well, and consider that you'll spend a lot of time on the road getting to your offroad area.

The air tank/compressor is a great addition as well if your going to run in deep sand. IE the the beach or dunes, you'll need to air down to get anywhere. On a side note: if your driving in sand take it slow and the instant you feel your truck start to spin or sink get off the throttle completely. If you don't you'll be stuck down the frame rails in no time flat. Which requires much more work to get out. Great addition would be something like these: https://www.maxtrax.com.au/ Oh and get a small army shovel so you can dig out when you get stuck. It'll happen sooner or later no matter what you do to your truck.

Depending on how you used your truck in the past, changing out the bushings, ball joint and tie rod ends might be a good idea. But if you haven't used your truck for heavy hauling or towing at the limit a lot, all those parts are probably fine till at least 200K IMO.

The rest of your truck is fine for what your planning, the axles, transfer case etc are plenty tough enough.

A nice winch bumper and a large winch would be really handy if/when you get stuck. The cheap route would be a come-along but do that once and you'll dig deep for a winch as soon as you get home.

Where I'm coming from: I drive a 3/4 ton Chevy diesel with a camper shell, and have been camping in the sand dunes of California numerous times, driven on the beaches of the Outer Banks here in North Carolina, been through out the deserts of California (Death Valley etc) as well as having explored the Sierra Nevada Mountains. In addition, I've camped, and explored the muddy/snowy North woods of Michigan extensively. All of which has been done in a bone stock truck with the factory sized tires, and a factory installed locker. FYI, I keep the tires the factory size as they are the same size as my car haul trailer, which minimizes the numbers of spares I need to carry.

Also, my dad drives the same model truck (bone stock) up deer hunting every year, with a large camper on the back thru some muddy *** fire roads in the UP of Michigan and has never been stuck. He literally pushes water, ice and mud up over the bumper just to get back to where he hunts.

You'd be surprised where you can go is a relatively stock truck, I say try your truck out and modify it as you go.
 

chasespeed

Explorer
I wouldnt bother with a 4' inch lift. I ran 35s, on a leveling kit, dual Bilsteins(as mentioned) in the front, and singles in the rear. I used to TEAR down the beach, and never had a problem stuffing anything into anything. I would get just a TAD bit of rubbing at full lock, but, if I relaxed the steering wheel just a bit, no problem..

Mine was a 99.5 super crew, short bed,(7.3 of course), and I LOVED that truck. I miss it... BAD...

I would be a little leary of of a locker in the front, if you go that route, get a selectable... the 7.3 is HEAVY, and puts enough toque down, to make things go pop pretty easily with a locker... ask me how I know:victory:

Either a selectable(ARB, OX, etc), or a limited slip up front will be fine... and a regular detroit in the rear should be great....

I'm assuming its an auto... if thats the case, at LEAST service the trans, and put a different valve body in it. It can certainly save you some heart ache later.... I good converter as well....

While those arent "expo" things(the trans), they are pretty much needed for a trans that WILL get hot and used pretty hard(offroad, with some sort of camper and all the weight, etc).

Mine was great to me, and did everything I could have ever wanted, and more....

Here is a pic of it with 35s, and a leveling kit...click for larger pic.


Chase
 

TruckinFool

New member
Here's a picture of my truck as it sits. 140k

P3100076.jpg


Current mods are: 4" turbo back exhaust, Intake, chip, upgraded trans cooler, Shift kit, coolant filtration system etc. Basically all the longevity/mileage mods. Building transmission and upgrading torque converter very soon.

Chase, do you think 35's with just a leveling kit would give sufficient clearance for my wheelbase with some solid rocksliders? Im also trying to find out what kind of improvement to the turning radius can be had from an 05+ coil front end.

From all the response it seems to be strong enough for the job. My main concerns at this point are A) Wheelbase and turning radius B) figuring out a light/nimble backhalf allowing for a queensize bed, bathroom, stove, fridge etc.

(haha Seems ive stumbled onto the biggest struggle of an expedition!)

Basically my worst fear is to be out on some Colorado mt road or utah trail and not be able to proceed because the truck is too tall/wide or top heavy.

Any idea's? Cant seem to find too many of these setup for expo's
 
Last edited:

dsw4x4

Adventurer
Truckin fool i had the same sd cc 7.3 long bed and you would not believe where I could that truck in stock form. If it were me I would go with 35s or 37s either leveling or 4 inch lift. I would probably go witha complete 4inch system (new rear springs) the truck will amaze you set up like that. I never had a problem with turning radius you just have to take a few more shots at some swithbacks. As far as your bathroom dilema my brother just went through this with 04 sd cc short bed. He actually found a company that will build a pop up slide in with a full bath room and the tailgate closes so there is no over hang. He flew into town (Denver) I drove down and picked him up and we went on a camper tour of Hallmark, Outfitter, and Coyote. Hallmark pretty much said you can get what we sell and that is it. Nice campers but they will not modify a floor plan for you. Outfitter said he will make whatever you want base price was 19g before you add all of the options this was about the price of the hallmark with out the options. Coyote builds every camper from scratch to your own specs the camper was very well built even though they do not use quit as nice of materials as the other two craftsmenship seemed about the same. base price was 13g and with all the options it came out to 17g. The same options on the other two would of put you close to 30 almost twice the price. Anyway if your looking for a new camper the way you want it I would say talk to them as you may of found out there are not a ton of options for the short bed campers. Either way your truck will wheel fine with a pop up slide in. Top heavy will not be an issue.
 

Marc1

Observer
Here's mine. 07 F350 PSD 3:73's LS front and back. Icon 2.5" leveling kit. 285x75x18, (35's)Overloads removed, Firestone air bags, ATC Camper, etc etc. This combo has worked real well for me so far.
 

Attachments

  • 4x4.jpg
    4x4.jpg
    104.4 KB · Views: 79
Last edited:

leverett

Observer
Leverett,

I would say based on your expected uses for your truck you won't need to do much. Assuming your not planning on rock crawling, your truck should be fine. I do think adding a locker at least in the rear diff is a good idea, I've used a Detroit in my old Jeep and it worked great and they are bullet proof. They do take some getting used to as they will cause the truck to lurch to the left when it engages. The harder you stomp on it when pulling away the more pronounced the lurch. However, I put well over 100K on mine and never had a problem and the lurching was minor at most. On slippery road you do need to be aware of it as if your not paying attention your truck will want to slide the back end around. Easily compensated for by counter steering.

35's are a good idea as you'll gain ground clearance, but I'd go (I did go) with an AT type tire as Mud tires hum. Yes all of them hum to some degree and they typically don't wear as well, and consider that you'll spend a lot of time on the road getting to your offroad area.

The air tank/compressor is a great addition as well if your going to run in deep sand. IE the the beach or dunes, you'll need to air down to get anywhere. On a side note: if your driving in sand take it slow and the instant you feel your truck start to spin or sink get off the throttle completely. If you don't you'll be stuck down the frame rails in no time flat. Which requires much more work to get out. Great addition would be something like these: https://www.maxtrax.com.au/ Oh and get a small army shovel so you can dig out when you get stuck. It'll happen sooner or later no matter what you do to your truck.

Depending on how you used your truck in the past, changing out the bushings, ball joint and tie rod ends might be a good idea. But if you haven't used your truck for heavy hauling or towing at the limit a lot, all those parts are probably fine till at least 200K IMO.

The rest of your truck is fine for what your planning, the axles, transfer case etc are plenty tough enough.

A nice winch bumper and a large winch would be really handy if/when you get stuck. The cheap route would be a come-along but do that once and you'll dig deep for a winch as soon as you get home.

Where I'm coming from: I drive a 3/4 ton Chevy diesel with a camper shell, and have been camping in the sand dunes of California numerous times, driven on the beaches of the Outer Banks here in North Carolina, been through out the deserts of California (Death Valley etc) as well as having explored the Sierra Nevada Mountains. In addition, I've camped, and explored the muddy/snowy North woods of Michigan extensively. All of which has been done in a bone stock truck with the factory sized tires, and a factory installed locker. FYI, I keep the tires the factory size as they are the same size as my car haul trailer, which minimizes the numbers of spares I need to carry.

Also, my dad drives the same model truck (bone stock) up deer hunting every year, with a large camper on the back thru some muddy *** fire roads in the UP of Michigan and has never been stuck. He literally pushes water, ice and mud up over the bumper just to get back to where he hunts.

You'd be surprised where you can go is a relatively stock truck, I say try your truck out and modify it as you go.


rock crawling is mainly what i do with my truck and i do level 3 or 4 trails with stock rear axle and ifs limited slips front and rear you dont need one ton axles to rock crawl if you know what your doing and i drive home every time. back on subject a folding army shovel works great and if you need to be winched out i would suggest a hilift with the winching package and the jack mate instead of the top clamp
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,538
Messages
2,875,655
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top