Scratch Building a trailer... got a few questions

Rezarf <><

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Howdy everyone...

Let me first say I have learned a lot by reading tons of posts here! THANKS!

I have been lurking here for a few months and thought I would finally post up a few questions that I would like to ask. I frequent ih8mud often but it seemed like this is the place for some more specific trailer/camper questions.

Here is a link to my brainstorming thread on mud: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=108388

I have a few more questions that I will ask here, and any info/advice would be greatly appreciated.

1) I am going to build a metal "skeleton" out of 1" square tubing with .125 wall, and skin the inner surface with sheet metal.
*What gauge would be best?
*I would like to use stainless rivets, do you see any major problems with that? Welding is my other option here, but I want to be able to remove/modify any panels as time goes on.
*Do you recommend a good body sealer for the seams and joints?

2) What is the best way to figure out the distance needed between my tires (35x12.5" MT/r) and the trailer tub. I cannot see the springs flexing all that much they are rated at 1000# each. Any ideas on how much space to leave between the two?

3) Have any of you used a shurflo Aqua King Jr. water pump for on board water pressure? Is there a better system for a pump and faucet? Looking to have a sink/faucet combo, and a hand held shower.

4) What is the best feature of your trailer setup? So, if you were building one what would you be absolutely sure to include?

Thanks in advance!

Drew
 
Sgt Grunt

Sgt Grunt

Adventurer
I would include a tailgate, lockable storage, battery set up charged by the pulling vehicle and solar panel, and mean enough frame etc. to handle mild pulling if you get stuck.

Just some thoughts....
 
Rezarf <><

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Thanks, I have all that planned. I have aquired lots of components and have a few more to gather up.

Should be fun for sure.

Rezarf <><
 
G

Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
All these concepts were created in AutoCad .00001
Click to expand...

Now that's the funny!

I haven't made any progress on mine yet. I missed a free frame that was nearly perfect for the boxes and even had 6 lug axle. It would have got me rolling for the short term till I could do the air suspension.

I really like the concept drawing.
 
Rezarf <><

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Thanks I decided to change it a bit. I will not knock off the corners of the top section, instead I will make it similar to the m101 and m416 sides, I am also loosing the side doors and making one large locking lid.

Anyone on the rivets vs. welding?

Rezarf <><
 
G

Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
Rivets or welding....either will work well with proper planning. If its aluminum with a skinned sub structure the rivets will be fine.

A tip is Silicon sealants BLOW. Get a good sealant like Vulkem 636. http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=24 That stuff is 10 times the sealing of silicone. Just make sure you have it where you want it before it dries. It sticks GOOD. Alcoa Gutter seal is a little thin for building. It is meant to reseal an existing seam.

RV places will have it or a similar products under different names. Ask for a roof sealant in a caulk gun dispenser.
 
Rezarf <><

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Thanks for the tip.

I am going with stainless rivets and steel tubing and sheet. I will check out that product for sure, thanks again!

Where are you at in Atlanta? I am a ramblin' wreck from Georgia Tech, ID 1999.

Rezarf <><
 
G

Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
I am in Marietta. Went to Southern Tech when it was still sort of an extension of GA tech.

You don't happen to Know Adam Black that had the Black Jeep XJ did you? He was going there around that time.
 
G

Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
Rezarf <>< said:
If an xj is a cherokee, then yes, I knew Adam. Wow, small world.

Rezarf <><
Click to expand...

Sure is. He is a regular on Pirate with the nick of "Indulf" if you want to drop him a line.
 
Rezarf <><

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Closing in on final design phases for my trailer. Thought I would bounce a few more questions out there.

1. Trackwidth: How much wider than my FJ40's width you say is acceptable? If I can make a trailer a full 4 feet wide, I will have a bit wider stance than the cruiser itself. About 4 inches per side. However, this would allow the trailer to fit flat sheet goods without a problem.

2. How much room should be budgeted between the tires and the frame rails of the trailer? Anyone have a m416 or m101 that they could measure for me?

3. I may go with the m416 shape and style but the Aussies seem to make the box a bit wider without issues. This trailer will see a lot of Moab and Colorado high country, not a lot of tight trails, any opinions?

4. What height would you like to see the box and why, I am thinking of a minimum of 20" but higher would add storage, and raise the COG. Opinions?

Thanks!:victory:

Drew
 
G

Grim Reaper

Expedition Leader
Rezarf <>< said:
Closing in on final design phases for my trailer. Thought I would bounce a few more questions out there.

1. Trackwidth: How much wider than my FJ40's width you say is acceptable? If I can make a trailer a full 4 feet wide, I will have a bit wider stance than the cruiser itself. About 4 inches per side. However, this would allow the trailer to fit flat sheet goods without a problem.

2. How much room should be budgeted between the tires and the frame rails of the trailer? Anyone have a m416 or m101 that they could measure for me?

3. I may go with the m416 shape and style but the Aussies seem to make the box a bit wider without issues. This trailer will see a lot of Moab and Colorado high country, not a lot of tight trails, any opinions?

4. What height would you like to see the box and why, I am thinking of a minimum of 20" but higher would add storage, and raise the COG. Opinions?

Thanks!:victory:

Drew
Click to expand...

Width:
On the street you could make it as wide as a Semi. For the trail you are probably best served keeping it the track width of the vehicle you are pulling it with. The goal is to have it follow along in the trucks tracks. On a tight turn that may be a problem and the trailer may make a tighter turn then the truck. Knowing that I would be hesitant to go wider.

Wheel clearance:
Trailers don't do much in the way of articulating. They just twist in relation to the hitch. You can be pretty tight. My road trailer I threw a set of mags on it a buddy gave me off a XJ. They rubbed. I put a 1/4 inch spacer and its been fine. Never rubbed again. Now it doesn’t see what a off road trailer is going to see. I would recommend you have 1-2 inches from the side wall. That will get you some play if the trailer slides sideways a wedges you won’t risk side wall damage.

Box Width:

Again I think the width of the truck pulling it would be a good guide for the maximum width. The designer of the Ausie trailers was designing for unimproved roads in the outback not rock crawling. As an example the trailer I am designing will have a floor 42 inches wide...what the floor is of my 4Runner. I am incorporating a rub rail that will form the fender and a halo bar/cargo rack for the top. The goal is if I flop it will protect it from major damage. The body at its widest point will be between 42-50 inches. Box being the easiest to build but it would be nice to have some extra room a little higher.

Box height:

Will it have a hard top?

With a hard top I would give 2-4 inches over the talest thing you think you will bring...Good guide would be your Fridge.

I'm actually incorporating a sleeping bunk in mine so my over all height from bed to top will be around 48. inches. The body will be aluminum so it won't have a big effect on CG.
 
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