I made this for my 60 out of 1" steel tube and 1/8" aluminum diamond plate. It has mounts for my Hi-Lift and full sized shovel, there are welded nuts to bolt down my storage boxes for camping and fishing equipment also. We also carry a 12' inflatable kayak on top without issue.
The holes in the aluminum are to allow tie down points for misce. loads. The aluminum also works as a great shade for the roof and makes the interior feel much cooler than than the dark gray color did on hot days without the cover.
I painted it with Imron which is, IMHO, better than powder coating.
It quite light and is very quiet on the road.
I have a ladder that mounts on the inside of the 60 and hooks onto the rear center mount for easy access.
My Isuzu Swap: http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-...ey-begins.html
When you get to Ih8mud type in Google search - "The Journey Begins"
stomper, those are excellent!
NOMO-2011 Nissan Xterra PRO4X. stock
Just my 2/100 cts the quality of work is really high , and these will probably be perfectly adequate for what the majority will be used for , but would like to suggest that if there is an intention to travel on corrugated bush road with quite a load on the rack that the feet are finished of with a joining bar to spread the load , I have seen many vehicles in Australia that have had the gutters "hammered" down to the point that they interfere with door opening . This suggestion obviously applies to gutter mount racks only . JMHO
1986 110 CSW V8i > TD6
1992 90 300tdi auto
1999 P38 DSE Auto
2001 Freelander TD4 Auto
New poster here; been lurking and stealing ideas.
I have very little fabrication experience (never actually fabricated anything before) but do have a lincoln Easy Mig. My first effort at a rack was just finished yesterday (see attaached photos).
I wanted it to work with a stock bumper with no-drill installation. Much of this was a fabricate-as-i-go sort of project. I knew from Garmin and KargoMaster and some other rack makers about where the attachement points were, but then was on my own.
Thankfully a shop press bent the 1/4 inch plate into the zig-zag pattern to get around the bumper and tub. The bolt on the side under the gas cap presses against the tub to prevent rattling and side-to-side movement. The rack also articulated backwards so if (when) I go with a soft top, I will be able to easily lower it all the way. The plan in the future is to get rid of the rear mounts entirely and weld the rack directly onto my rear bumper which I will also scratch build.
The rack is built to hold a RTT which I hopefully will get next month. When there is no RTT, it's just a cargo basket, but it still allows us full use of the forward freedom panels.
All told the cost was about $400 bucks, including a new chopsaw which will no doubt get use in other projects. Oh, and I don't know if you can put a price on my beard, but a bit of welding metal managed to singe it a bit so I lost that too!
Craigwhitton: Nice work, does it flip up?