Oilworker have you seen this
Vatiivas are not great in winter. Better than most all seasons, but not a winter tire level of traction.
Hakka LTs are not anywhere near the level as the car model Hakkas. They are really meant to be studded. I know a few that have run them and you are disappointed if you are used to a modern car winter tire.
The Goodyear Duratracs have been the best tire for mud/snow I have used. I am on my second set for the JK. I drive 98 miles a day and they work well in the interstate or back roads. I just put a set of cooper muds and snow on my Cummins 2500 and wish I had gone with Duratracs.
I have had really good luck with the Cooper ST tires---now they have the Cooper ST Max out which is an even better tire. Currently running the Cooper ST on my 63 Series 109 in all sorts of driving conditions and they perform very well, plus stand up well to the torque of a diesel. I run them year round in Oregon USA through the snow, sand dunes and whatever trouble I can find.
Rust, Rust and yet more Rust
Been busy the past days and after seeing and experiencing what the "great german diesel" does to modern cars I decided to do my business travels by train instead.
The low temperatures in Europe (some places as low as -28°C) have stopped many diesel trucks and today I saw this...
...itīs taken from a brand new Land Rover Defender 110SW 2.2L with only 1700km on the odometer in itīs close to 2 months on the road.
What are your experiences with current fuel? How much is bio-fuel addition affecting your car?
Because of this I am also rethinking my choice of engine for the next phase.
Rallyewerk...still just a dream of a dreamer but it may just work! Who knows! Thanx to all of you out there! THANX!
...Dec 20th, 2012....T minus 263 days....a little trip from End to End...more soon
I'm not sure about over there across the pond, but in Canada, we have winter diesel, I've had my Unimog out in -37c, and its never gelled or frozen, but the diesel pumps in town have been shut-down and unable to pump fuel.
Biodiesel freezes at even higher temperatures, from what I've read, you can't run it in the winter without serious additives to keep it from freezing.
In the Winter I run B20 with some Amsoil Cold Flow Improver and haven't had any issues to -20 F. Biodiesel will gel at a higher temp than traditional diesel so you need to run an additive. Even traditional diesel will start to gel around -10 F. In the states where it gets really cold they offer a mix of Diesel #2 and Diesel #1 or you can even just run Diesel #1. In Oregon all diesel contains 5% biodiesel and last winter when it -20F even the school buses stopped---no one put in any additive. I was running B20 with no issues in a 300tdi and 2.8 International.
Rust, Rust and yet more Rust
If things are like that picture, I would suggest installing a filter heater. That will stop those gelling problems. As said above, it is never a problem here as we know winter....
I would suggest the Standadyne FM-100 with a 6" 2 micron filter and the heater that inserts in the middle. It bolts straight up to the stock Defender location. It will give you better filtration than stock and increase the life of your injectors.
It also never hurt to run a good diesel fuel conditioner. Standyne or Powerservice. Everyone should always carry a bottle of Powerservice 911 for those emergency gelling incidents.
I made a diesel noob error earlier this winter and failed to add anti-gel to my fuel when the temperature was something like -37 Celsius. Truck started and idled fine (which I attribute to the OEM diesel heater on the fuel filter), but died about two blocks from my house. Two Scepter cans full of fresh diesel, a new fuel filter, and some very numb fingers and I was back on the road. It's a mistake I won't make again.
1991 Land Cruiser HDJ81 - 1HD-T, Magic Dial
Jeep YJ - Too much to list