Belly armor

[Benjisan]

I'm taking the advice of a friend who does some tough off-road trails and I'm holding off on the the lift and 33" tires I had planned. I'm told the Rubicon is pretty capable on 31" tires right out of the box and that I should see what it can do stock before I decide what extras I need or want on it.

I'm also told a good thing to invest in right away is belly armor and a tummy tuck. I've narrowed it down to either the JeepMedic tummy tuck and engine skid or the Nth TT and engine skid. Does anyone here have any recommendations, pros and cons on these two, or just general advice on these tummy tuck skids? In addition to the TT and engine skid I'll be bolting on a Rokmen steering box skid. I hear its pretty stout.

Thank you in advance.

Oh I suppose I should mention I'll also be adding a JKS 1.25" Body lift and 1" MML as well as JKS disconnects to make it a little more capable when rocks get in my way. I hope I am able to disco alright with just a 1.25" BL...

[goodtimes]

The rubicons are indeed pretty capable out of the box (been there, done that). I don't have any experience with either of the skid plates you mention..but pretty much anything is better than the OE part. The big thing you want to look at is the front and rear (leading and trailing) edges...the OEM part is bent down at both ends...this is bad. At a minimum, you want something that is flat, better if it is bent up at each end. Also, you want a skid plate that has some support across the width of it, otherwise it WILL bend. I have managed to bend mine even with 3/16" C-channel running across it in 2 places (FWIW, I built mine from 1/4" steel plate).

Also, be sure to match the amount of motor mount lift with the amount of lift the belly pan provides--this keeps the centerline of the crankshaft/mainshaft/t'case output shaft parallel to the ground...which keeps your fan square to the radiator and shroud, and also keeps your fan centered in the shroud--both good things.

In addition, I suggest you look at boxing in the lower front suspension link captures...these are the lowest hanging parts of your suspension, and are very easy to bend. Weld-on skid plates are very cheap (used to be less than $25 per pair), or just use some flat stock like I did. The steering box skid is another vital part--I used one from Kilby, it ran me $35, laser cut, powder coated 3/16" plate...use any of them, they are all pretty much the same. One final thing, add a engine oil pan skid plate to the list. I used one from Tera...it was designed for the 2002 and earlier TJ's, but it was a 5 minute fix to get it to fit the 2003+ (grind 1/4" off of the front drivers side corner to clear the exhaust)--$60 and it has saved the bottom of my oil pan on more than one occasion.

You are on the right track....just add some armor in those strategic places and go enjoy it.

[Joaquin Suave]

Though I'm not a Rubicon owner...

A super good friend of mine owns a 4x4 shop that is either #1 or #2 in the country for doing the Nth Degree long arm conversions (in volume) and by FAR #1 in doing the Kilby AirRock systems, so I've been under a lot of Rubies.

Nth Degree makes KILLER PRODUCT!!!!

You might want to plan ahead further...So that what mods you buy now might not conflict with future wants.

It sucks to spend $$$ on parts only to later find that you will have to pull them off because they conflict with another package.

It happens with my buddies clients all the time. And I seem to have and endless source of great slightly used Jeep parts for cheap or often free.

[goodtimes]

It happens with my buddies clients all the time. And I seem to have and endless source of great slightly used Jeep parts for cheap or often free.

I don't suppose long arms or coil-overs are ever part of this endless source of great used parts?

[Joaquin Suave]

I don't suppose long arms or coil-overs are ever part of this endless source of great used parts?

No, but there are piles of stock stuff. being a CJ owner, thats not much use to me. I have scored thing like air compressors, back up lights, tires, even a photovoltaic panel.

I am constantly amazed at the rich older guys and all the over the top bling bling gizmos they put on they're TJ's.

I look some us the upgrades and think to my self...."i could stay in Mexico for 1, 2, 3, 6, 9, months for that kind of money"

[goodtimes]

...think to my self...."i could stay in Mexico for 1, 2, 3, 6, 9, months for that kind of money"

I hear that. I want to re-work the chassis on my rubicon...but parts alone are going to be upwards of the cost of a used 80 series cruiser....

[Benjisan]

Thanks you all for the tips so far. I saw armor for those suspension links but thought that might be overkill but I suppose I should do it right and weld some on there.

As for planning the upgrade route, I couldn't agree more. I want to avoid spending money on parts only to remove those perfectly good parts for something new and/or bigger a few years later.

Speaking of upgrades, I recently saw a question on another forum that went something like, "What would you do different?" It seems like most people said something to the effect of, "Straight to 35's and a long-arm."

Oddly enough, my buddies all tell me the same thing, forget 33" tires and small lifts. Wheel it stock and then go straight to the 35's and a long arm. They say I'll eventually want 35's anyway and its better to skip all the junk in the middle and save the money.

I'm just going to wait and see how she handles off-road and then decide. I try to explain to him I don't really want a rock crawler perse and I'm looking more for "an adventure machine." 35" tires seem like a bit much for someone who would use it to go on hard rock trails only a handful of times a year. Plus, there is the expense...long arm kit, rework brakes, regear, cv shaft, expensive tires, etc.

[cshontz]

It seems like most people said something to the effect of, "Straight to 35's and a long-arm."

Sure. So you can increase your center of gravity, regear, fuss with driveline angles, diminish handling, and introduce undue strain unto your drivetrain.

That advice isn't bad, but its presumptuous. I know three things for certain: 1) 75% of all "lifted" Jeeps have more lift than they should. 2) 99% of all statistics are made up on the spot, and 3) the more you do to your Jeep, the more you have to do to your Jeep.

All-in-all, it just depends on how and where you want to roll - and I mean "roll" as in . But certainly don't let the rock crawling community dictate what you need unless that is what you're into. Refer to #3.

[goodtimes]

Actually, the rock crawling community tends to shy away from long arms. They hang to low and are easy to bend. But, at some point (usually around 4" of lift), the short arms are at such a drastic angle relative to the frame that the ride and handling characeristics have deteriorated so much that long arms are about the only solution if you spend much time on the slab.

If highly technical trails (4.5+ on the old 5 point scale) are not in your future, long arms really don't become much of a problem. On easier trails, certain obstacles will still be a problem, but there simply aren't many of those obstacles. Honestly, I would go for long arms with 3.5+ inches of lift for a non-rock crawling rig...especially if you are doing any moderate to high speed travel down rough roads (baja). I really wish I would have gone that route.

On the 33 vs 35" debate....35's really do require alot more work...specifically re-gearing. It is a huge expense, even if you do the install yourself, you are looking at $700 for 2 rubicon gear sets and master install kits. Plan on another $200+ per axle for the labor if someone else does it.

[Wanderlusty]

I considered 35's for about as long as it took me to add up all the neccessary parts. 33's for me...

Honestly, I don't see 35's to be at all worth it. If you lay out big bucks, and live for the 4+ trails like the rock crawlers, then go 37's and REALLY spend some $$$.

The difference in ground clearance between 33's and 3 inch lift and 35's and 4.5 inch lift....is....just not worth it. Hold out your hand, look at your index finger, and decide if an amount of added ground clearance less than the length of your finger is worth $2k+.

In fact, a TJ on 33's with a nice tucked pan will actually have a better breakover angle than a TJ on 35's still sporting the stock skid....

As far as long arms vs. short arms....I like what doesn't cost me $...

I won't be seeing Baja any time soon, and drive like a grandpa anyway...(no offense go grandfathers)

As far as what skids, I have heard a lot of good about Nth. And from what I have read, they don't even require a BL, but provide a pipe that you jack up into the tunnel until it dimples the tunnel a little for proper T-case fitment. Correct me if I am mistaken.