Glacier Crossing (On Foot)

[JNorton]

If anyone has any experience crossing glaciers on foot, I'd love some general comments or suggestions. I'm planning on using a dryline 8mm rope that's halfway between a full, dynamic, climbing rope and a static rapelling line. I was only planning on bringing 50 feet to minimize pack weight. And I think that's plenty for a 2-man trip. I'm using a lightweight pair of grivel crampons that have served me well in the past, and are versitile enough to be strapped on to my extreme mountaineering, trekking boots or my low-top trail runners for fast-packing. I have a basic, non-technical, lightweight ice axe by petzl that I'll be bringing as well. I wonder, though, if it would be more efficient just to bring a pair of trekking poles instead of the axe.
James Norton - Wilderness Rapport

[Scott Brady]

Well, this is certainly an exciting topic

I have typically traversed glaciers, due to their unpredictability more than challenge.

My only concern with the trekking pole idea would be if you had to self arrest, or arrest/recover if one of you broke through a snow bridge or cornice.

Regarding the cord length, I made a similar gear choice on my recent trek up Picacho del Diablo, and found the cord length of 50' (8mm) to be insufficient. The size and weight were nice, but proved to be the safety limiter at the crux of the climb.

We came to a 100' traverse on the north face of Botela Azule, and could not safely span the distance without excessive risk.

Where will you be traveling?

[JNorton]

Thanks for the heads-up on the rope length, maybe I'll have to pack something longer as a precaution. We are heading to Wrangell St. Elias NP in Alaska. Most of our backpacking will be in the McCarthy area, near the 'root' glacier. There are several areas where glacial and ice-crossing will be a necessity.
-James

[Scott Brady]

The Glaciers in Alaska are amazing.

This picture was taken on my plane ride to Denali base camp

Glacier Image

[Hltoppr]

You'll want a full length (150-165') of cord. I use 9mm dynamic for mtn. travel and low angle lower/rescue work, which works great. You'll need the extra length in the event of any rescue involving system building. Additionally, be sure you know how to self rescue (ie. prussik cords or Kleinheist knot).

I was on a glacier in the Palisades a couple years back and post-holed into a nice, V notch crevasse, nothing but slick ice on the sides. If I were to have fallen, it would have been totally up to my buddies to get me out, as I would have wedged into that thing tight as $hit, with no room to move, and suffocation/hypothermia being a real threat.

Practice before you go.

(Scott, I sure hope those aren't cotton carhart trousers in that pic! tisk, tisk! )

-H-

Just a pic of my "other" job....

[BajaTaco]

Just a pic of my "other" job....

[mountainpete]

I used to ice climb and glacier explore before I got married - unfortunately giving that up was part of the deal (but it was still a good deal since I got her).

I always used a 100 foot 11mm dynamic rope for glacier travel. I found 11mm gave that extra safety & abrasion protection I wanted and I didn't mind the extra weight for it. I also always had Grivel Rambo crampons and Charlet Moser Ice Axes. An ice axe is a must have in my opinion - especially if the conditions are going from sunny to windy. I have had ropes freeze into the ice and had to chip them out. And as Scott mentioned, poles aren't that great for self arrest.