M100 (post WWII) DOD '53 SN# 2185X

[ethernectar]

Love that you can open it from either side. Might have to steal that idea when I build my top.

[TacoDell]

Love that you can open it from either side. Might have to steal that idea when I build my top.

I like that too...

feel free to use any ideas that might fit for yer needs...

is why I shared my build with the public.

==============================

here's a final look at up under 'da trailer after the tub was reinstalled
post mods...











And then...

Ran the trailer down the road @ speed (55-60mph) and took 'er on 'da trail for a short run.

I wasn't easy on 'er... tho' these pics are primarily poser pics...

But I'll assure ya... I put 'er to 'da test.

After bashing about and hauling *** down some rough, rock strewn fire road...
( ^ yep... no pictars of that ^ )

I must say... at this point... she's seemingly up to snuff















I think she's ready fo' 'da Moab

[sapper]

There is some great ideas in this build. I will be stealing a few of them when I build mine. I love those hinges. I had never seen them before but I will be ordering a bunch of them for my build.

[TacoDell]

There is some great ideas in this build. I will be stealing a few of them when I build mine. I love those hinges. I had never seen them before but I will be ordering a bunch of them for my build.

Thanks for commenting...
Look forward in seeing, how U end up using these hinges.

=================================

And my latest homebrew addition...

Well... I couldn't afford to purchase 'da gas struts, that I want,
'least for 'da moment...
and I'm not real excited about using a whittling stick fo' holdin' 'dis lid up.

sooo.... In a last minute effort, to come up with something...

I made up a couple mechanical lid support rods that will stow away when not in use.
They will fold up, flush into the lid's frame work.

There are two opposing support rods mounted at each end of the trailer's lid...

The forward support is for securing, when opening from the passenger side
and rearward support is for securing, when opening from the drivers side.
a single rod at either end, seems more then strong enough.

The 1/2" steel rod is Zinc coated , with a welded on "T" and two large nuts welded onto the lid's (inner) frame work,
The nuts act as a pivot/mount for the "T" rod upper end(s).
The nuts are tacked good... but not fully welded...
I may need to cut this stuff back off... down the road a bit.

When the lid is in the lifted position, the lower end of the "T" rod easily slides into the steel elbow that is welded to the flat stock,
one each, inboard, both ends of the trailer.
The elbow(s) are a little obtrusive and ugly...
and there are likely better ways...
But as ugly as these 90* elbows might look...
they were local, inexpensive, seemed fairly stout... had possibility ?
just had to ream out the insert opening to 1/2" ID. and weld it.

Most likely I'll pin the lower rod ends (at the elbow)... to keep the rod(s) from pulling out in the event of a wind gust.

A simple tab secures the rod end(s) in their stowed position...
There is some flex to the rod, so that the rod cannot slide far enough over to drop off the tab.

To remove the rod from it's stay...
with your hand, push the rod to the direction of the tab's opening... and it easily drops out

...it's not a difficult thing to do, tho' maybe a little awkward while yer trying to hold the lid up at the same time.

If U have the arm strength of a girl...

then U won't like this...




some pics... (though not so good, 'cause it was getting dark out)

finished product...





Upper end(s) "T" rod pivot mount



Lower Rod end, mount/perch (90* gas fitting)





Rod Stow/Securing tab (lower rod stay)...



These pics depict the free play of the "T" rod/mount.
there is some slack at the "T", where they reside in the nuts.
but, the tension on the rod will not allow it to slide over to the side of the tab's opening, the "T" rod's tension keeps the lower end from moving too far and falling out.





"T" rod stowed...



This pic shows a clear plastic tubing slid onto the rod's lower end,
It's located where lower rod end rests on the tab/stay when stowed.
it is meant to keep the lower end of the rod from rattling around, due it's free play.

I will also be using some neoprene padding to work like a bump stop and keep the rod end from moving around, making contact or noise.





cost $ 15.00 for 'dis homebrew

==================================

on a side note...

just return from a roll up to Moab...

the trailer pulled well on the near 1,500 mile journey...
new frame reinforcement did it's job...

didn't get a chance to wheel 'er tho'

girlfriend got sick 2nd day there ... and I had to leave 'da bed fo' 'er.

[TacoDell]

haven't updated for some time...
and I was dang howdy, about getting the M100's P brake/assembly back online...
so thought I would add.

I had minor clearance issue with my forward spare tire mount positioning...
so I had to face the shorter arm of the b.crank forward.

works alright... though I think I lost some leverage,
it takes a little muscle or quick power pull, to get the brakes to engage completely.
...and requires that one last extra half stretch/tooth on the brake handle for solid lock up.
Maybe not meant for the weaker hand...
but I've no issue with the extra effort.

And because I couldn't locate an original bolt (for the moment) I opted to configure my own assembly
I ended up using a sleeved Bronze Olite bushing (cut down), BO washer, double nutted to the frame.
I've no clue as to how well the olite material will hold up... but I'm not too worried about it.
can always replace the olite bushing or find a steel sleeved bushing if need be...
well... 'least until I can locate an original bolt. :|

















It might look a little nicer... with a new coat of paint
But that means I'll have to take it all apart again

edited: 6-29-11 cleaned up and a ll' paint



Also... no pictures (yet) 'cause I can't seem to find where I put them.
I had to replace the tension springs on the cable ends...
the old springs had rusted and broken... I found some at the local hardware store... and wound them on.
they seem to be holding up... so time will tell I guess...
thought I remember the gauge was 0.26 @ 3.25" length. (Couldn't locate a 3.5" length in the gauge, local, or i'd have gone with that)
I'll update this post... when I find those pics.

[Titanpat57]

and here I got all excited figuring you spent the last month painting it to match the Taco....

silly me....



All the mods look solid, I know it's costing you extra money and time to keep it "original"...but you're doing a hellava job Dell.


Congratz...always enjoy the updates

[TacoDell]

actually... I am preparing it for paint...

I first had some issues with the inner tub floor seam(s) producing rust.
and so had to clean that up, treat/neutralize the rust and reseal...
I ended up using some 3M auto body seam sealer to fill the seal(s),
and primed again until paint's applied.


*the Rust came from my ice coolers condensation/some spill maybe...
and water came to rest in the recesses of the seam(s) ignoring primer that was laid in there.

the rust neutralizer, re-prime and seam seal make it ready for paint...
well... least inside the tub.

I've just simply been procrastinating...
on how I was gonna go about painting it.
and with the least expense and hassle, in thought.

edit: oops... for got the pics

before...





after...

[TacoDell]

Just bought two of these water cans...
and now need to figure out how I want them to mount

was thinking of making a basket type mount (frame supported)...
rather the boxing off the ends of the fenders and killing what little approach angle this trailer has.

Anyone else mount these 10L "Runt" cans to their trailer ?
pics or a link would be greatly appreciated.
could use a little kick start.... for motivation...
thanks... if ya got any sense to throw in

sooo... high or low mount ?



low...


high...


low...


high...


low...


high...

[Lucky j]

I would go as high as possible. Better protected.

Nice built, keep it coming!

[TacoDell]

been too hot for welding outta or in muh garage,
coupla' hours in 'da morn'n at best.
tho' I did make a little progress,
by completing the weld up of the can'(s) base/platform

things will become more clear... in the next few steps
If I can hope for a cooler day, in 'da forecast









wc's could face either way... if of mind