Mountaineer Build

nobodyspecial

Observer
My DD has turned into a project vehicle. I am building it up to be a capable rig for long range camping and all around adventuring.
smile.gif
We have a few trips tentatively planned already. I just need to get this thing going as we have much that we want to see.
I will be making a roof rack to carry a few items, but most will be carried in a trailer, so to keep from putting too much weight up top. Also, it will be nice to have the roof top tent set up on top of the trailer, so I can unhook and leave the "base camp" in place and go wheeling.

Here is what I have so far:

2000 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0
BW4406 transfer case replacing the factory AWD unit.
5x Black Rock 942 16x8 steel wheels
5x 255/85/16 BFG KM2s
D30 (non disconnect) from a mid 90s Jeep XJ

Still needed:
Front bumper
Rear bumper, spare tire/fuel carrier
Winch
Roof rack

So far I have $2500 into it, that includes the cost of the vehicle, too.
This is how it started:

0617091602.jpg


Here it is today. No lift in the front just the sawzall, and 1 inch in the rear. I plan on turning the torsion bars up in the front an inch until I get the solid front put in. let me know what you think.
SNC00032-1.jpg
 

labbe66

Observer
I love the fact that you fit the 255-85s with no lift. This is a great way to build a truck. Keep it low and just do some body work to fit bigger tires!
 

wanderer-rrorc

Explorer
I've been building explorers/rangers for the last 10 years....


are you going to rock-crawl/moderate to heavy wheelin or just use it for fire-access roads and light wheelin?...

if ya are...just leave the IFS in it...you'll be glad for the better ride and loosing the headace of swapin it over...and throw a winch on the front and use that when the goin gets tough to save the axle..

is it awd or can you actually put it in 2wd? -EDIT..reading isnt my skill!...do the swap and theres some wiring that sometimes needs swapped with that changeover..but its a day job/4hr to get it done..

you can carry alot of gear inside...I would throw a 12vt fridge in it!!..and as ya said your going the trailer route then all that gear would go inside the trailer...but for quick weekend trips it will hold enough gear for 4 guys to tent camp...
 

nobodyspecial

Observer
Thanks for the tips.

Its not going to be built as a rock crawler, and I know that the IFS will hold up just fine. I forgot to mention it on this site, but said it else where, I got the D30 for free, and it will serve as a place holder/testbed which i will run till/if it breaks and then change it out for a locked Rubicon D44, which will bolt right up after I set up the D30.

Winch is on the list, along with a front bumper for it. :D

I have everything ready for the transfercase swap, there will be no wiring issues (unless I feel the need to have the dash indicator work) since my speed sensor is not in the transfercase on this model, its in the rear end. It should be an easy day/afternoon job.
 

KLAKEBRONCO

Adventurer
Good start.

I'm actually working on a project focusing on maximum clearance and minimum lift. A fullsize Bronco with NO lift, and 35's.

One thing I would like to see on your truck is to swap in an earlier explorer Dana 35. They are actually pretty stout, and you can swap Dana 44 TTB outer knuckles for the lockouts and the bigger brakes.
And TTB can be made to flex great, and is great for improved ride and handling at high speed, and on the highway.

Then add the super 88 kit for the rear 8.8 and have the new shafts drilled for 5x5.5 to match the front.
 

nobodyspecial

Observer
It has a d35 in it now, this does not have TTB like the earlier explorers. It is an A Arm setup. If I am taking the time to swap axles, I am not swapping a TTB. :D

The 8.8 in the rear will hold up just fine with bigger tires and more power than I will have in this thing.
 

nobodyspecial

Observer
I twisted the torsion bars, cut the rear fenders a bit and got rid of the steps:
I am planning on folding the bottom pinch weld over. That will give almost another inch. I gained two inches of clearance by loosing the step


S1052713.jpg

 

KLAKEBRONCO

Adventurer
Once the solid axle goes in you will be lifted right?

Are you still going to try and maintain minimum lift?

If so some ideas of mine.

Front=I'll leave alone other than to say measure shocks and not assume. Other than that I'm sticking to my Dana 44 TTB, and there are a bunch of things I'm doing or planing to do that won't apply to you.

Rear-Again measure what shock you need. The lower shock mounts can be relocated to gain clearance. This probably means new upper mounts too.
A really stout diff cover is a good idea IMO since you don't have big tires.

Trim the rear quarters from the rear wheel opening to the back of the truck. A rear quarter slider can be incorporated into the rear bumper.

Boatside the thing. Sounds crazy but you don't have to make it a radical boat side like some of the extreme trail trucks. 3-4" would be huge. Not only would you be gaining the 3-4" but another 2" if you count sliders mounted under the body.....For a total of 5-6" or more.

This is a trail truck but the boatside came out nice. On a fullsize Bronco.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169301

Tuck the exhaust up. You might gain some power and a good deal of clearance. The tailpipe can be protected by exiting through the body above the rear quarter sliders.

Clock the transfer case up. This should tuck it up into the frame rails.

High steer....I'm looking at ways to do this on a stock TTB truck but again that doesn't apply. Upgraded linkage would be nice too, but so would be getting it up out of the way a bit.

Those are just some of the ideas I'm looking to add into my truck. Look under alot of trucks and there are things hanging a good solid 3" below. Tuck that stuff up and you basically just added a lift without effecting center of gravity, drive shaft angles, steering geometry, and most of all (to me the most important) fuel mileage.


Edit: I see you did trim the quarters....Now just needed a lower profile rear bumper.
 

nobodyspecial

Observer
Yep, I hacked them off this afternoon. I have a few drawings/plans for rear bumper swing out carrier that will have protection for the corners.

As for lift, the max i will lift it from where it is now is 1-2 inches. I am planning on new spring packs for the rear as these are sagging.

When the SAS happens (not a priority right now, since it has new wheel bearings and the IFS works, and I have other things to buy that are more important than fixing something that already works) I will keep it at 1-2 inches.

The bottom of this truck is pretty streamlined already, there is not a whole lot more to do besides get on the road. :)
 
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wanderer-rrorc

Explorer
WOW...

I guessing you are young AND new to rangers...so let me tell ya what the Ranger club Ive belonged to for the last 10 years...and some of the tech I've read/contributed to "the ranger station" has given us...

the IFS setup with coilovers will just about outflex the ttb stuff...the 44 outers on a 35 is just a bunch of wasted time unless you extend and bend the arms and go 70mph+ all the time (great for desert racing not for dd or woods wheelin)

I never needed rear quarter sliders...just window protection from some L channel zip screwed to the body to protect the glass from trees...

boatsiding is pointless on these...if yor that worried just trim the lip on the floor to the door sil (it usually rots off anyway) and put some sliders on it..and if ya boatside you need to move the driver/pass seat UP the distance you boatside and will rapidly run out of headroom..

the t-case and exaust on these are ALREADY tucked in the frame...so a skidplate for the t-case (and clocking these is silly as it starves the front output bearings for fluid and weakens them..and then they fail..and grenade the case)

if your going to all the trouble of a ttb 44...its been tried..and works for some applications..but you will not beat a good D60 out front...period..by the time ya get a 44..and build it to withstand the power and weight of one of these 4dr pigs...you could have just got a 60...but the point is a IFS 35 will do what you want it to do UP TO A 35IN tire..then it will need regular front unit bearings due to the larger tire..but still will do it!!

you can high-steer a TTB...its called a super-runner steering...and it works..


the OP has a great grasp of what needs done to work well and not waste time/materials..lets see what else he comes up with!!
 
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nobodyspecial

Observer
the OP has a great grasp of what needs done to work well and not waste time/materials..lets see what else he comes up with!!
Thanks, I appreciate it! :)

Like I said before, as of now, the SAS is pushed to the backburner, since the money and time spent on it can be put into other more useful mods.

If anyone has any suggestions, I would love to hear them. I have been reading over a few of the trailer builds on here, but I want to get a better welder before I start that. I have been talking with the boss over at Ready Welder and I am getting a pretty good deal on one. Having a portable welding solution will be great for fixing things on the road. If anyone doesn't know what they are, I suggest checking them out.
 
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KLAKEBRONCO

Adventurer
WOW...

I guessing you are young AND new to rangers...so let me tell ya what the Ranger club Ive belonged to for the last 10 years...and some of the tech I've read/contributed to "the ranger station" has given us...

the IFS setup with coilovers will just about outflex the ttb stuff...the 44 outers on a 35 is just a bunch of wasted time unless you extend and bend the arms and go 70mph+ all the time (great for desert racing not for dd or woods wheelin)

I never needed rear quarter sliders...just window protection from some L channel zip screwed to the body to protect the glass from trees...

boatsiding is pointless on these...if yor that worried just trim the lip on the floor to the door sil (it usually rots off anyway) and put some sliders on it..and if ya boatside you need to move the driver/pass seat UP the distance you boatside and will rapidly run out of headroom..

the t-case and exaust on these are ALREADY tucked in the frame...so a skidplate for the t-case (and clocking these is silly as it starves the front output bearings for fluid and weakens them..and then they fail..and grenade the case)

if your going to all the trouble of a ttb 44...its been tried..and works for some applications..but you will not beat a good D60 out front...period..by the time ya get a 44..and build it to withstand the power and weight of one of these 4dr pigs...you could have just got a 60...but the point is a IFS 35 will do what you want it to do UP TO A 35IN tire..then it will need regular front unit bearings due to the larger tire..but still will do it!!

you can high-steer a TTB...its called a super-runner steering...and it works..


the OP has a great grasp of what needs done to work well and not waste time/materials..lets see what else he comes up with!!


Sorry, I have no desire to argue, but you are spreading mis-information. And apparently are not reading my posts.

The IFS will absolutely NOT outflex the TTB. That is complete nonsense. The TTB is stronger and FAR outflexes the IFS setup.

I've seen lots of Bronco's with beat up rear quarters. While smaller, it stands to reason that given the overhang the explorer is vulnerable in the same area.
AND it's cheap if you can fab things yourself.

Please tell me how boatsiding is pointless on ANYTHING. Read my post in it's entirety please. I said a mild boat side, and gave a link to the process. Nowhere in that were seats relocated. And the same can apply to the Explorer. Did you click the link and actually look/read? NOT boatsiding not only doesn't gain you any clearance, but you LOSE clearance when you put sliders on the body. Again read the post. Trimming 3" from the outsides actually gains 5-6" of clearance depending on the material the sliders are made of and the gap between them and the body.

Gaining clearance without lifting isn't pointless ever.
Dragging things through the dirt in a butched out redneck build, or lifting to the sky IS pointless.

Again read my post. Did anyone mention using a Dana 44 on an Explorer? I know I didn't.

The Superlift steering is overrated. It shortens the already short tie rod, and parts of it are not serviceable and expensive. And for the majority of the linkage, isn't any higher.


Thanks for all the corrections:rolleyes:
 
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nobodyspecial

Observer
OK guys, play nice. :D

I don't have TTB so arguing TTB vs A-Arm is pointless, and I won't be boatsiding this rig (my old bronco, maybe) I appreciate the input.
 

wanderer-rrorc

Explorer
Sorry, I have no desire to argue, but you are spreading mis-information. And apparently are not reading my posts.

Thanks for all the corrections:rolleyes:


alrighty then....

lemme try it like this...

http://www.campbellfamilymotorsports.com/

buggy
main.php


me
http://www.campbellfamilymotorsports.com/tony's bio.htm
main.php


main.php


and shannon cambell's IFS buggy for king of the hammers...
main.php


our buggy boatside has caused us to slip and rollover...the amount of fab work to boatside doesnt do anything for ya if your FRAME IS STILL IN THE WAY..and when you get stuck on the frame (or the diff of the ttb35 that hangs down 2in further than the 44 diff) and loose momentum...your stuck...

everybody goes cheap on their first soild axle..(see D30 in build list)

and Ive wheeled a 4dr for the last 5 years....I MIGHT have an idea what works...
 

nobodyspecial

Observer
everybody goes cheap on their first soild axle..(see D30 in build list)
Cheap? That thing was free! I wouldn't have paid money for a D30! :D

I think I already said it, but I plan on using the D30 for mocking up, then run it for a while and swap it out with a Rubicon D44. I am too lazy to go back and see if I already said that. :D
 

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