OME XJ 2-3" lift kit ?'s

[AZTACO]

I am interested in getting an OME 2-3" lift kit, but I had a couple questions first:

1. Would this require ANY other modifications to compensate for the new lift, like a transfer case drop ect…?

2. Will this fit 31" tire with no trimming?

3. Does this include a sway bar quick disconnect? If not can anyone recommend one for an XJ.

Thanks for the help, I am just getting started on my overlandish/daily diver XJ and I know very little.

Thanks for the help, FMJs-of-Freedom

[troy]

1. every jeep is different, but mine ('98 XJ) required me to shim the t-case about 1/2" to get rid of slight driveline vibes. Some say you should use a track bar reloating bracket or adjustable track bar, but I did not.

2. I've run 31s and they did rub in a couple spots. I believe the general concensus is you need at least 3" or some fender trimming to get by with just an OME lift. You'll be more likely to rub when using discos. 30x9,5 or the metric equivalent may be a bettter choice if you aren't going to lift it more. I'm running 255/70/16 which is slightly under 31" in height and about 9.8" wide. My tires will touch in places when flexed out, but not bad enough to damage anything. You may be happier with the smaller tire from a performance standpoint.

3. Sway bar discos are not automatically included with an OME lift. Some vendors assemble parts from different manufacturers and my include one. I've used JKS with good experience in the past, but have not used any other brands.

Good luck

[BIGdaddy]

what year XJ?

[AZTACO]

Sorry I forgot, it is a 2001. AZTACO

[Verbalkint99]

Technicaly, the year does not realy matter as the same suspention was used through out the XJ build years.

Like it was said before, you may have to shim your rear axle or drop the T-case a little. You will also have to relocate your track bar mount as any lift will pull your front axle to the left. Its not hard at all. Unless you are going 3.5 inches or more you will not need a new track bar or control arms, infact most companies dont even make ones for lifts under 3.5 inches.

I have a 3" Rough Country lift on my XJ and still had to trim to get my 31s on. Though I have 4.5 inches of BS as opposed to the 5 - 5.5 that most stock rims have.

JKS has great discos, probably the only ones that dont make a loud CLUNK sound when you go over bumps. I just pulled my RC discos off because they were realy loud and I couldnt take it anymore. I will put them back on for wheeling trips but thats about it.

Good luck

[bat]

If you get into 4" of lift and over the driveline comes into play on the newer XJ.

[T&A-XJ]

1. lowering the t case will be hit or miss. Check u joint condition and grease them and lube the slip yoke as they can get bound up on the newer XJs. About 3" is where an adjustable track bar becomes a desire as the axle starts to shift to the drivers side. Do not get a drop bracket, drop pitman arm etc. the geometry is correct in their stock locations and unecessary to modify at such a low lift height. FWIW a heavy duty track bar and bracket from Rubicon extress etc still keeps the geometry the same.

2. 31s should fit with 4" or more wheel backspacing. you will get tire rub on the control arms though with the deeper backspacing. i would recommend 4.5-5" BS wheels. Any trimming needed with this size tire will be very minor and just the the plastic wheel well liner.

3. no disconnects are included but as said above, the JKS quicker disconnects are the way to go. Also look into DPG's cable sway bar holders, they are much better than using bungie cords.


One of my favorite XJs had a 2" lift, 245/75R16 (apx 30.5" tall) rubicon take offs and a limited slip rear end. Was amazed how well it did even compared to my other XJs equiped with 33s and all the hoopla.

[AZTACO]

Thanks for the help guys, I'll think this over and get back to you. AZTACO

[b52]

I have a 3.5" Rubicon Express superflex lift kit with full leaf packs etc. Initially I put rear spring shims and a t-case lowering kit and it did nothing for me. The drive line vibrations were so bad that I had no choice but to do a SYE and CV drive shaft. After installing a A/A SYE kit and a TomWoods CV driveshaft, removing the t-case lowering kit and leaving the rear shims I still had minor vibes at speeds in excess of 120 km/h, however, with time to let the rear springs settle they slowly went away. The only issue I'm having now is that I'm still going through U-JOINTS waaaaaaay to quickly.

In reference to all of this, keep in mind that I have a Chrysler 8.25 rear end. Apparently those with a DANA 35 rear end can achieve higher lifts with out having to opt for a sye and CV drive shaft so quickly. Oh, and with my 31's I would rub the fender flares at full lock on occasion. The wheel wells are just too small.

For reference; My truck is a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4 door, with a NP 231 t-case, Chrysler 8.25 diff with the 4.0L motor and the AW4 tranny.

Hope this helps,

- Thane

[Fergie]

I am interested in getting an OME 2-3" lift kit, but I had a couple questions first:

1. Would this require ANY other modifications to compensate for the new lift, like a transfer case drop ect…?

2. Will this fit 31" tire with no trimming?

3. Does this include a sway bar quick disconnect? If not can anyone recommend one for an XJ.

Thanks for the help, I am just getting started on my overlandish/daily diver XJ and I know very little.

Thanks for the help, FMJs-of-Freedom

Just some thoughts on the OME kit. If you are wanting a lift that rides a bit higher, but has better handling, and load capcaity, I'd suggest going with the heavy leaf pack in the back, with the JCXL AAL specifically designed for the kit. Couple that with something like an RE shackle, and a small spacer in front to level things out stance wise, and you'll be sitting at the 3.5-4" mark; this may be more than you want though.

With the caveat that every XJ is different, the later years of XJs had a different tailcone design and were more prone to vibrations at lift. As a matter of ease of maintenance and trail repairs, I'd go with an SYE kit, just to be done with it. At $150 for a godo kit from PORC, and a junkyard(rebuilt) AW-4 front shaft in the rear, you should be godo to go. Going with the SYE also gets rid of the need to shim the rear axle, which can put odd stress on the shock bushings.

Tires size wise, yes, you can fit in height, but may rub in width. Consider WJ lower CAs or new wheels.

Go JKS for the swaybar discos...I went though homemade versions, RE versions, and finalyl ended with JKS...do it right the first time.

I'd also suggest a Kevins trackbar and bracket.

HTH