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Thread: Camper Trailer Skin options ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Central IL
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    Question Camper Trailer Skin options ?

    Hey guys...

    working on my free camper design this evening and started pondering options for skin material.

    I'm considering Aluminum and Stainless Steel.

    What thicknesses would you guys recommend? I don't have a whole lot of sheet metal experience.

    I saw in the "Goliath" trailer thread that the builder was using 26ga......is this generally viewed as acceptable for Aluminum skins?

    any suggestions for stainless steel?

    I will probably go with Alum....but wont rule out SST yet .... it's more $$$ but I sure am a sucker for stainless!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Back in the L.A. area after spending the summer hiking and mt. climbing up north of here.
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    I am just finishing up putting new aluminum siding on my rebuilt truck camper. I have a friend who has an aluminum fabrication company and he sold me the aluminum sheets at his cost, I think it was $40 for 4x8 and $50 for 4x10 foot sheets. I also didn't have any experience with metal so was really nervous about cutting into the first sheet. Cutting it was a bit of a pain, we tried hand shears, a table saw and an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade. I wasn't really happy with any of them but each worked better in specific applications. I've heard the best is a powered nipper, electric ones are expensive but Home Depot has an air powered one for $35, but the local store here didn't have any in stock.

    We overlapped joints about 2 to 3 inches and had 3" strips bent at 90 degrees to cover the corners. He also made 'Z' shaped pieces to use for door openings, which worked pretty good.

    Our biggest problem was attaching it over the plywood base layer, found out the Liquid Nails adhesive we used wasn't recommended after we were about half done! We also used screws on the edges and seams, as well as some in the middle, may add more in the middle of the large panel areas but hate to put in unnecessary holes and screws. The panels came painted white, we used white silicone caulk to seal the trim pieces, as well as screwed them.

    You can see pics on my build thread in the Mitsubishi Heavy Duty truck section, will add final pics in a day or two. I'm really happy with how it looks, hope it is OK long term.

    Vic
    Enjoying God's Beautiful Creation

    2001 Isuzu NPR HD, 5 speed - see http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...ad.php?t=38961
    1990 Shadow Cruiser Truck Camper - Totally rebuilt
    2008 Honda CRF-230L
    Schwinn S-30 full suspension mt. bike

    See some of my adventures here:
    http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=28256

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    5,564
    First question, is are the skins structural or not? I wouldn't use 26 gauge in a structural application, and in fact, I would think it would have to be over a substrate like plywood. So, it really is just for waterproofing.

    In a structural application, I wouldn't use less than 18 gauge steel. I used it on my roof, and it's fairly flimsy. I used 14 gauge on the floor and walls and that worked out well.

  4. #4
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    Jun 2010
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    Central IL
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    Quote Originally Posted by R_Lefebvre View Post
    First question, is are the skins structural or not?
    good call...should have clarified. it is NOT structural. I will have a steel frame underneath.

    I'd like it to be tough but not toooo heavy. I don't want a dragging tree-branch to rip a hole the full length of the trailer or something.....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    5,564
    I have a steel frame under mine too. What I mean is, is there a substrate? You can't use the super thin stuff without a substrate, or it'll get dented and punctured every time you look at it the wrong way.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Moab, UT
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    224
    I'm using .063 on mine. Steel frame with alu skin. I wouldnt go much thinner than that.
    Gary
    96 FZJ80
    93 W250 Cummins

  7. #7
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    Central IL
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    I wasn't wanting to use a substrate....just a steel frame with the alum attached to it. I was planning on adding some light steel tube or angle in between the structural members to provide additional mounting points and support

    Not sure if this is the best way though, so I'm open to suggestions but would like to avoid wood as much as possible. I'll be using it on the inside though to cover the insulation.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Indy
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeep4x4greg View Post
    I wasn't wanting to use a substrate....just a steel frame with the alum attached to it. I was planning on adding some light steel tube or angle in between the structural members to provide additional mounting points and support

    Not sure if this is the best way though, so I'm open to suggestions but would like to avoid wood as much as possible. I'll be using it on the inside though to cover the insulation.
    Why not consider a foam backer of some sort as a base, then? It will provide insulation. I know there are aluminum backed foam panels that can be sourced as well. But, for sound and temp. insulation, the foam--like whats used in residential construction could be cut to fit in your voids and provide some backing. Then your wood panelling inside would do the rest and make it look livable. I have seen several trailer-builds on here where people added the foam into their walls to insulate...not sure if its substantial enough to be a backer though...just an idea.

  9. #9
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    Jan 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Ab
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    Consider using puckboard. 1/4" thick, lightweight, easy to cut, hard to break, 4'x8' sheets in variety of colours

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Central IL
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    Quote Originally Posted by IggyB View Post
    Consider using puckboard. 1/4" thick, lightweight, easy to cut, hard to break, 4'x8' sheets in variety of colours
    puckboard...had to look that up since I'd never heard of it.....

    seems like a good option. how heavy is it? and any issues with UV breakdown?

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