Thread: Broken spark plug removal?

  1. #1
    jeffryscott's Avatar
    jeffryscott is offline 2006 Rally Course Champion: Expedition Trophy
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    Default Broken spark plug removal?

    So, went to change a spark plug on an 89 Volvo 245 (my "new" expedition vehicle light, but not replacing the 4Runner) and the plug in #1 broke clean off, leaving only the threads in the head. Nothing outside to grip onto ... a bit of a problem.

    Suggestions on removing would be most appreciated ...

    Thanks,

    Jeff
    2002 Isuzu Trooper. OME suspension, Michelin LTX AT 265/75/16, ARB 47l fridge. A few of my photos here: http://jeffryscott.com/

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    That sucks.

    The only way I know of to fix that involves pulling the head.
    "Life is meant to be enjoyed, not endured" ~someone

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    Is it really just the threads left in the head? If the center is open you could try tapping an "easy out" in there and see if that will extract it for ya.
    Brad

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    jeffryscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tucson T4R View Post
    Is it really just the threads left in the head? If the center is open you could try tapping an "easy out" in there and see if that will extract it for ya.
    The center is open, some bits of ceramic left. Over on the Volvo board a few have mentioned PB blaster, heat, more PB blaster, more heat and an EZ out or large screwdriver to get it moving ...

    If I can break the bond that froze the bits together, there is hope. I really don't want to pull the head on a $400 car.

    We need a Tucson get together too.
    2002 Isuzu Trooper. OME suspension, Michelin LTX AT 265/75/16, ARB 47l fridge. A few of my photos here: http://jeffryscott.com/

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    goodtimes's Avatar
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    If the center is open, you might have a chance. Be careful though, all those little bits of ceramic that are left are just waiting for a chance to break off and fall into the combustion chamber.

    If you try a big easy-out (I might have one big enough to try), smear a bunch of grease on it so any pieces of ceramic that break off will be trapped in the grease, not falling into the combustion chamber.
    "Life is meant to be enjoyed, not endured" ~someone

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    PB blaster/heat cycle followed by an easy-out or large flathead screwdriver.
    2004 Jeep Wrangler X
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffryscott View Post
    The center is open, some bits of ceramic left. Over on the Volvo board a few have mentioned PB blaster, heat, more PB blaster, more heat and an EZ out or large screwdriver to get it moving ...

    If I can break the bond that froze the bits together, there is hope. I really don't want to pull the head on a $400 car.

    We need a Tucson get together too.
    Sounds like consensus on the approach. Good luck and let us know how it works out.

    And yes, we do need a Tucson get together. Or maybe another local camping run to share a fire again.
    Brad

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    2004 4Runner - 2011 Kimberley Karavan

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    This is a common problem on Ford's 5.4 motors. Snap-on and Matco sells a special kit that allows for removal of the broken plug. I think a cheaper alternative to the above companies might be a kit made by k-d tools. It s been several years since I looked for one but I m sure its still out there.

    good luck

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    Default Fixed

    Sadly, or I should say embarrassingly, it was easy. I was getting a good grip with the ezout, but couldn't get it to move. Today, I figured how to grip it with a ratchet (using a bolt extracting socket)and it came right out. Reminds me to start simple, instead of making it complicated.

    Thanks for the help and advice, now let's find time for a beer.
    2002 Isuzu Trooper. OME suspension, Michelin LTX AT 265/75/16, ARB 47l fridge. A few of my photos here: http://jeffryscott.com/

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