How would you outfit this custom LJ?

[jscherb]

If you're willing to drop the coin; I highly recommend installing a Genright Safari tank. It holds 31.5 gallons greatly increasing your range.

I've looked at the Genright tank, and talked to them in detail about it at Easter Jeep Safari last year. But in the end the number of days per year that I need extra fuel are too few to make it worthwhile to install the Genright tank, as nice as it is.

My side-mount jerry can holders have worked out perfectly though - since they mount in receivers that bolt to the frame and it only takes a minute to install them, I can have them with me any time I might need them and the rest of the time they sit home in the garage.

 

[Concho]

I bet if it was fairly finished, like an Ikea product, most jeepers could complete it. It would allow user modification or customization if wanted, plus part replacement if something goes wrong

 

[Mudicon]

Thank you very much, it's very nice of you to say that.

Unfortunately I don't have anything to do with the cost structure of the companies that might license my designs.

I've often wondered if instead of licensing it to a company that offered completed hardtops, what if I had found a company that wanted to offer fiberglass parts kits that a DIY-er would complete himself, kind of like the set of parts pictured below. I suspect most people would fine a kit like that too daunting to complete though.

Actually, I think it would be much like open sourcing where individuals could bring ideas together each with specialization's and use the basic building blocks provided by the whole. We saw it first in software, where once the basic building blocks and frame work were created, each could build on others ideas. We then saw it move into 3D design with google sketch up and the communities of designers creating everything imaginable. We are now seeing it in rapid prototyping with 3D printing. When we need a new specialized GoPro case for our new hex rotor we searched thingiverse and find one close, modified it, and printed it. End user customization. I would much prefer to have the parts you presented in your post and be presented the opportunity to create my own unique Safari Top. Can you imagine a group of 50+ unique Safari Tops coming together to share ideas and improve on the whole. If you happen to know a way to make that a reality, please let me know :drool:

 

[TenaciousTJ]

The current plan is the Alaska Highway to Fairbanks, up to Prudhoe bay and back to Fairbanks and then back to the US, possibly bask to US by a slightly different route. Anchorage unfortunately not in the current plan.

Sounds like an awesome trip! Been awhile since I've looked at a map, but last time I had a peek, Alaska was still part of the United States. 'Muricah!

 

[jscherb]

Sounds like an awesome trip! Been awhile since I've looked at a map, but last time I had a peek, Alaska was still part of the United States. 'Muricah!

. I was thinking about the route through Canada when I wrote that. I guess I should have said "back to the lower 48"!!!

 

[jscherb]

Actually, I think it would be much like open sourcing where individuals could bring ideas together each with specialization's and use the basic building blocks provided by the whole. We saw it first in software, where once the basic building blocks and frame work were created, each could build on others ideas. We then saw it move into 3D design with google sketch up and the communities of designers creating everything imaginable. We are now seeing it in rapid prototyping with 3D printing. When we need a new specialized GoPro case for our new hex rotor we searched thingiverse and find one close, modified it, and printed it. End user customization. I would much prefer to have the parts you presented in your post and be presented the opportunity to create my own unique Safari Top. Can you imagine a group of 50+ unique Safari Tops coming together to share ideas and improve on the whole. If you happen to know a way to make that a reality, please let me know :drool:

When home 3d printers can make parts this big, maybe something like that would catch on .

There's a lot of possibility for customization just with the current parts as they currently come out of the molds - for example, no windows are cut out of the as-molded parts, so you could choose whatever size and style window suited you. Or you could eliminate the side panels or make them removable and do some canvas variations like I did with mine:

And if you were interested in doing a little "cut and splice" fiberglass work, you could make custom length Safari Cabs, such as a half cab:

Or a crew cab:

Or maybe a pop-top or Flip-pac adaptation:

BTW I've very interested in the idea of open sourcing/customization when it comes to projects like this - my current fiberglass project is all about customization, it's a set of modular building block components for doing camper shells. I'm doing a proof-of-concept right now on a Jeep-tub trailer base, but many variations of sizes, shapes and styles are possible with the basic set of parts with or without a Jeep-tub base. I call the project TrailTop:

The basic idea is a set of modular/cut-to-length parts that form the basics of pretty much any camper shell, with the rest of the materials (such as side panels) being easily obtainable materials such as plywood.

The proof-of-concept going together:

Another concept based on the same parts set:

I can easily image 50+ TrailTop-based campers showing up at a meet, all different and customized to the users exact needs and styling...

 

[Mudicon]

Back last summer when I still had my shop, these were a couple designs I was working on. If I ever build a JK, I will do the JK8 conversion and build the second top below for it.

 

[jscherb]

One of the pieces of gear I'm adding to the LJ Safari for the planned Alaska trip this summer is a better CB. I have a handheld CB, but I want a "real" CB that I can count on to transmit and receive over a decent distance. The problem is that I don't want the CB mounted permanently in the Jeep - the only times I use it are on organized trail runs, occasionally on a long highway trip so I can ask "what's the cause of this traffic?", and of course the Alaska trip. Other than that I don't need or want it in the Jeep, which is 98% of the time.

So I designed a removable CB mount that doesn't require any drilling or modifications to the Jeep. It places the CB behind the console, so it's out of the way. I don't use it much, so while this location is not as convenient as having it right in front of you, it'll be fine for the amount I use it.

It's a very simple mount, consisting of two brackets which hook over the edge of the console. Each bracket slides in place separately, and the CB mount thumbscrews mount the CB and hold everything together.

In these photos the mic is sitting on the top of the console, but it stows very nicely in the hole between the CB and the console, so I won't need to install a mic mount clip anywhere.

Here's a shot of the brackets before they were painted. These two pieces are all there is to the mount, except for a little foam weatherstrip on the inside so the metal parts don't scratch the console.

 

[Xbcasey]

You sir are an inspiration! Ever since I saw your barn door idea I have been dying to try it. I finally got the time to pull the jeep in the shop and I couldn't be happier with the result! It is SO much more convenient to get in and out of the back. I prefer my soft top, but usually run the hard top because I hated getting into the back window, that has changed! Thank you for sharing your brilliant ideas!

 

[jscherb]

You sir are an inspiration! Ever since I saw your barn door idea I have been dying to try it. I finally got the time to pull the jeep in the shop and I couldn't be happier with the result! It is SO much more convenient to get in and out of the back. I prefer my soft top, but usually run the hard top because I hated getting into the back window, that has changed! Thank you for sharing your brilliant ideas!

Nicely done, congratulations!

Glad I could be an inspiration .

 

[tweenerlj]

Nice...should be starting my own variant of this soon.

 

[jscherb]

As part of my CB installation I've been doing some experimenting with antenna locations to get the lowest SWR reading. In the process I've learned a few things I thought would be worth passing along.

Background info: SWR ("standing wave ratio") is a measurement of how much transmitter power goes out the antenna vs. how much is "reflected back" due to antenna mistuning, antenna location or other factors. SWR is measured with an SWR meter, which goes between the transmitter and antenna. The closer the reading is to 1, the more power is leaving the antenna; up to 2.0 or so the CB will transmit ok, and above that there's a problem that needs to be solved.

SWR meters are pictured below, I've got two because I wasn't 100% convinced that the first one I had was accurate.

A 1.0 SWR means that all power is going out the antenna, and is hard to achieve in the real world due to losses in cables, etc. A 1.5 SWR means that 97% of the power is going out the antenna and is just fine in the real world; a 2.0 means that 89% of the power is transmitted - very usable, allthough maximum range won't be achieved.

Now to my real world tests...

I've read that the optimum cable length (between the CB and the antenna) for most installations is 18'. Initially I had a 10' cable, because Jeep are short and I didn't need that much cable to reach between the antenna and the CB. The best SWR reading I got with the 10' cable was 2.4; switching from the 10' to an 18' cable reduced the SWR to 1.9. Didn't really expect that just changing the cable length would make that much difference, but both meters confirmed it.

My goal was a reading near 1.5, so I still had more work to do. Another piece of common advice is to avoid having the antenna near a parallel "reflecting surface" (more on that in a moment).

My initial location was right on the Exogate hinge, SWR reading about 1.9:

That's usable, but only 90 percent of the transmitter power going out the antenna. Good enough for trail runs because the leader and tailgunner would always be withing range, and probably good enough for basic highway use, say to find out why the traffic is stopped up ahead, but not good enough for use on the Dalton Highway in Alaska where I might need maximum range in an emergency.

Opening the barn door moved the antenna a little further from the Jeep, so next I tried mounting the antenna in the center of the spare, using the mounting stud I designed for the jerry can mount, plus an adapter for the antenna:

SWR there was 1.5 (97% power out). Perfectly fine for almost all situations. Opening the barn door reduced the SWR even further, so I decided to try another mounting location a little further from the Jeep. I made up an extension bracket:

SWR was 1.2 in this extended location, which means 99.2% power output.

And if I open the barn door all the way, which puts the antenna a little bit further away from the Jeep, the SWR goes down to below 1.1.

So moving the antenna away from the Jeep improves the SWR significantly. I don't know what the "reflecting surface" is that's causing the problem - it could be the hardtop, although I wouldn't have expected fiberglass to reflect too much radio transmission, but it could also be the roll bars - the vertical parts are more-or-less parallel with the antenna and they are grounded. I'm not a transmitter engineer, so I don't know the exact cause, but I was able to find an optimal location through testing, so all is well.

I only run with the CB in the Jeep for trail runs, occasional long highway trips, and of course I'll use it on the Alaska trip. I don't need the extended mount for all circumstances, so I can pick among the mounts pictured above for the situation I plan to be in.

 

[Mashurst]

Jscherb,
There is no question you do very nice work. I follow all your threads. Your information here is very on point. I thought I would add a bit from my experience with antennas.

-Fiberglass antennas like the one you are using are very subject to catastrophic failure when subjected to even light contact. I would recommend using a spring in the base and carrying a backup or using a steel whip. They were designed to be mounted up high on big truck not down in the muck off road and in parking lots.

-SWR is important and a high SWR will tell you that you have a problem, but a low SWR does not necessarily mean you have an effective setup. Mounted on the back of your rig like that will result in a markedly directional reception/radiation pattern pointing behind you. Obviously, most of what you care about on a road trip is in front of you. The glass on the back of your jeep is almost certainly part of what you were seeing as you moved it back. It is not just metal that affects RF. For a trip on a long highway like the one you are planning, I think you would get much better performance mounting it up front. A steel whip on the bumper works very well (Australian style) if you can get over to look of it. Another way to go would be the type of mount that goes between the hood and the quarter panel. Again, I would run an appropriate spring. Yet another option would be through the roof. It is possible to get a good ground plane even with a fiberglass roof by using an adhesive backed foil inside. Mounting it to the roof rack may also work as a ground plain. Roof mounted will give you best overall range and the least directional pattern.

 

[jscherb]

...Your information here is very on point. I thought I would add a bit from my experience with antennas...

That's good advice, thanks for taking the time to type it all .

 

[Mudicon]

thanks guys! You have answered several of my unasked questions about transmitting issues in my rigs.