The battery meter is supposedly weatherproof, it was from ebay and $9.99 + like $3 shipping or something. I figured for that little money it is worth trying. It looks sealed up well on the backside, the way it mounts sucks though. You drill a 1-7/8" hole so it will seat, and the bracket that clips on the back won't reach the edges of the hole. Only a single LED lights up at the voltage level of the battery, so it uses even less juice than I thought it was going to.
Some more from this week/today!
Rear receiver started (not welded)
needs welded yet
Looks like the start to a lid
Handy with the u-bolts
Lid looks great. Have you tested on trailer to see how square the trailer is to the lid. My trailer looked good but lid was perfectly square and trailer was not.
There was one small spot where the side came in a bit and my buddy hit it with a hammer a few times and it popped back out.
Ok so bear with me when you see how the electrical is shaping up in the box. There will only be very light loads on any of the electrical in this thing at any one time as most of the lighting will be LED. The only thing I have not decided if I want to splurge on are LED backup/spot lamps as we usually do get to camp late/set up in the dark.
The outdoor outlet mounted on the bottom of the box has 2- 110v outlets. 1 outlet will run directly off any 110v that is plugged into the opposite side of the box. Probably unnecessary as the post at a campsite with 110v, but I felt it would be a nice option. The other 110v outlet will be powered by the commercial invertor that will be inside the tongue box. I may change this down the road to work 100% off the invertor, it would be as simple as unplugging from the power strip, and plugging into the invertor.
The 12V outlet on the side can run off 110v --> 12v convertor or the battery itself. There probably will be a battery tender inside the box eventually as well.
All but the main switch panel mounted and sealed in place
The 110V, 1 side is from the battery/invertor and the other works when plugged into the pole
The Tongue box coming together
Functional tail lights
Some fit damage to smooth
The other side is worse
Picked this up used with a shower attachment and case, they claimed "worked flawlessly" it showed up inop. A 1929 Model A is nice to have around for something... I took the 6v battery out of the heater and hooked it to the 6v battery in the car, found the battery was shot and wouldn't take a charge anymore. It worked using the bar battery, so I ordered a battery from Battery Sharks for $8 ($13ish shipped)
Last edited by jeepfreak81; 08-18-2012 at 05:03 AM.
Well, the 110V welder that we have used to build a few jeeps seems to be giving up, so we hauled the trailer to my dads and his 220v welder was the rescue!
Welding up the lift frame
Welding on the lid to the lid base, automotive seam sealer will seal the rest before paint.
Mocking up the lift frame
Left front so far
Welding on the rear lid cap
Cutting out the front lid cap
Mocked into place
Had to quit early today
Rear view in the light, hitch installed
Drivers side view
Spare tire holder in the hitch mount
Sits fairly tight to the trailer, but you cannot tell in this. This is where it will be for now anyway.
Last edited by jeepfreak81; 08-19-2012 at 01:44 AM.
Lift arms cut
Rack Extension made because we redesigned the lift
Switch panel mounted
A little odd mounting option, but it works very well
Uprights tacked into place, and rack extended for the new design