Full Size Truck/Expedition Truck Concept Vehicle

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I like what you are doing here Martyn :sombrero:

I'll agree with all the positive full-size comments. I've been a full-sized pickup/diesel guy for 18-years, and only recently started playing with smaller vehicles (Jeep & 4Runner). I still have one very large full-size rig in my fleet and is certainly offers many advantages.

Unless one is purposely looking for the more challenging tracks, there are few negatives to a diesel truck as a multi-purpose overlander. There is a good chance that I will buy another full-sized truck in the future, hopefully a supercab shortbed model.

Looking forward to the rest of your build Martyn.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I sure like that table. I went the AT site and while I saw some tables, I couldn't find this one. Is it on the site somewhere?

Sorry I don't have these up on the website yet.

The table is $139.00 and the pods or anchors attached to the vehicle are $35.00 a pair.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I like what you are doing here Martyn :sombrero:

I'll agree with all the positive full-size comments. I've been a full-sized pickup/diesel guy for 18-years, and only recently started playing with smaller vehicles (Jeep & 4Runner). I still have one very large full-size rig in my fleet and is certainly offers many advantages.

Unless one is purposely looking for the more challenging tracks, there are few negatives to a diesel truck as a multi-purpose overlander. There is a good chance that I will buy another full-sized truck in the future, hopefully a supercab shortbed model.

Looking forward to the rest of your build Martyn.

James

I take this as a real compliment to what I'm attempting to do here. You really know your full sized vehicles.

It would be exciting to do a build on the new truck if and when you get it.
 

locrwln

Expedition Leader
I like what you are doing here Martyn :sombrero:

I'll agree with all the positive full-size comments. I've been a full-sized pickup/diesel guy for 18-years, and only recently started playing with smaller vehicles (Jeep & 4Runner). I still have one very large full-size rig in my fleet and is certainly offers many advantages.

Unless one is purposely looking for the more challenging tracks, there are few negatives to a diesel truck as a multi-purpose overlander. There is a good chance that I will buy another full-sized truck in the future, hopefully a supercab shortbed model.

Looking forward to the rest of your build Martyn.

^Yep.

I told a guy I work with, that when he is ready to sell his White, 2002, F250, PSD, Auto, Ex-cab, SWB, with 67k miles to let me know.

Jack
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
The truck build has been on a short hiatus while I'm waiting on parts.

I've been doing some less glamorous work in the meantime. I produced drawings of all the panels needed to construct the storage units. These have all gone to be converted to CAM files so that the panels can be cut on a CNC router and then linexed. As we customize this build to different trucks and bed lengths we'll be able to modify the CAD and CAM files.

The other job I've done is working on the door locks. I don't know if this is just plan boring or useful. I'm sure you'll let me know :sombrero:

Ford trucks have an issue with their automatic door locks. At some point they fail and need replacing. The actuator for the lock is attached to the door latch itself. To get to it the door panel has to be removed, all the rods removed from the latch, and the latch and actuator removed from the door. It's one of those jobs you need super small bend hands and arms. Removing the latch takes about an hour the first time, by the time you are on the fourth door you can get it down to 30 minutes.

There is a well covered repair for the actuators, the actuator is taken apart and the heat sink in the motor wrapped in tin foil and replaced. I did that repair on the actuators about 6 months ago and they worked fine until the tiny electric motors burnt out.

The issue with this repair is it's a pain to have to remove the latches, take the actuators apart, and replace them, only to ultimately have the motor burn out, plus any fire hazard.

Not wanting to go through this again I bought some 2 wire 12 volt actuators as replacements. The fitment process is a lot simpler. Remove the door panel, attach the new actuator to the inside of the door panel, check it clears the window when fully down, and tap into the 12 volt supply for the factory actuator. I then used the supplied hardware to attach to one of the rods so that when activated it will open or close the lock. It's about a 30 minute job for each door.

I'd hesitated doing the job as a two wire actuator will either push or pull depending on the polarity that it's wired up to. I understood how it would work for the release on a hood or truck where all you wanted was it to open, but how would it work when you wanted it to open and close??

I love challenges like this, where I know something is possible but I don't have a clue how to achieve it. I found my answers here and I thought it was a neat solution. The system works by changing the polarity of the electric current, for example opening the locks is -/+ and closing the locks is +/- the polarity change is achieved through a relay system in the automatic door lock system.

I now have 4 doors that open using the central door lock system and the remote. The total time for the work was 2 hours, and the cost $50.00
 

jcbrandon

Explorer
Nice work, Martyn.

Might we expect your new-found remote actuator expertise to filter into some AT cabinetry at some point?
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Nice work, Martyn.

Might we expect your new-found remote actuator expertise to filter into some AT cabinetry at some point?

I've thought about it, but it may be introducing a complexity that isn't really called for.

I know UK4X4 built his trailer with no exterior handles or latches, all 12 volt actuators opening the doors from the interior, but I'm a little worried if one of the actuators failed or you drained your battery.
 

jcbrandon

Explorer
I was thinking manual latches with remote locks. Not sure how that would work. I think that sort of system is used on ambulances. And I see the risk in a system failure.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I was thinking manual latches with remote locks. Not sure how that would work. I think that sort of system is used on ambulances. And I see the risk in a system failure.

I think it would work well for special applications.

We use T handles for closures, to get an actuator to work you need a rod mechanism. We use all of our open doors as flat areas, a premium space when off road, and use them as tables and preparation areas. If you had mechanical closures with rods, as typically seen in work truck boxes, you would lose the flat area.

But anyway you look at it having doors open at the click of a button is just very slick.
 

RocKrawler

Supporting Sponsor
Wow I miss this truck - had I not listened to the many people in California who speculated the truck would never start in the cold of winter out here in VA I'd still be driving it. Looks like you're moving right along with it Martyn, looking good (but I still prefer my old rims & 35" KM2's, personal preference!).
BTW the trac in the front of the bed is Titan origin. Toyota has a similar system, the Titan setup happened to be on e-bay priced and was great for tying down my old XR600R, which I also badly miss.
 
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Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
I've been ordering parts since I last posted, and over the past few days I have installed the following:

AT FlipPac, ARB Deluxe bumper and bull bars, snorkel, and Old Man Emu shocks.

I had more than a helping hand from Clint, Jon, and Dave at the AT shop, in fact they did 90% of the work with me running around like a worried mother. :elkgrin:

After installing the AT FlipPac I drove down to Phoenix and had Travis, of Safari Pacific fame, and the guys at Swallow Graphics, do a very simple logo and tread design. It would have been simple if the temperature wasn't 103˚ F. The end result was amazing.

DSCN2648.jpg


DSCN2647.jpg


We decide to install the bumper next. Talking the old bumper off was simple, you removed six bolts and disconnected the fog lights. The ARB kit was straight forward to install, and they provided all the parts needed. With power tools it took 3.5 hours to do the job.

DSCN2639.jpg


DSCN2644.jpg
 
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Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Today Clint embarked on the snorkel install while I installed the new Old Man Emu Shocks. The shocks were a straight forward task, the instructions were simple and easy to follow. Apart from getting dirt in all over me life was good.

The snorkel install took around 5 hours, and although all the parts were there, all the instructions easy to follow, and the snorkel well thought out, it was quite a job to undertake.

ford3.jpg


Obviously there are some large holes to drill in the front wing that you want to get right, in addition the drivers side battery and the air cleaner have to come out, wires have to be disconnected, etc.

ford4.jpg


In spite of the length of time it took to install I like the finished product. The snorkel is form fitting and unobtrusive.

ford5.jpg


I'm very happy with the truck as it sits. It looks like an expedition truck that can double as work truck, the object of this build.

Monday we install the composite storage.
 

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