First attempt at a trailer

fingas

Observer
Well i decided I wanted to have a camping trailer but wanted it just like i wanted it so am building it myself. I have been lurking here for a while and gathering iformation. Below is a cellphone pic of where i am currently, the trailer will have a 4X5" two feet deep main box and a 38" toungue. I have estimated the weight with RTT and gear at 800lbs or so. I am putting on a 3500# axle.

What leaf springs would be a good choice? I think the normal trailer springs would be too short and maybe bounce/break my gear.

GetAttachment-4.jpg
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Some people are using Suzuki Samurai springs or CJ7 springs
 

Hill Bill E.

Oath Keeper
I agree, the 'standard' trailer springs you find at Northern are pretty short and stiff.

I would think Sami or CJ/YJ springs would be pretty smooth, especially if you incorperate shocks.

The M416 trailers used springs from a CJ3, longer than the standard trailer spring, but a bit shorter than the later CJ springs.

My M416 rides pretty nice, and I haven't had any gear get broken yet.
 

fingas

Observer
Thanks guys. This afternoon i got the frame of the main box complete. I think i am about ready to weld the tongue on and put the axle under it.
 

fingas

Observer
I have been working on my trailer a good bit lately. I got a set of springs from an '85 toyota pickup and have a 3500# axle on the way. I ordered bushings for the springs/shackles and they didn't come with sleeves. Does anyone know the OD and ID measurements of the sleeves?

And pictures of my progress.

The base frame
IMG_0306.jpg


uprights for walls
IMG_0307.jpg


The main frame of the box
IMG_0308.jpg


Spring hangers welded on, my welds are starting to look much better
P9050040.jpg

P9050038.jpg


the floor welded in
IMG_0344.jpg


At this point it may suffice to tell of my plans. There are going to be two side doors in the front and a tailgate in the back. I will be installing a water tank that will kind of act like a divider between the front and rear of the trailer.
trailer003-1.jpg


How it sits today
332.jpg
 

fingas

Observer
well I got it rolling yesterday

here is the progression since last time
trailer003-1.jpg

332.jpg

001-1.jpg

PA090054.jpg

PA090053.jpg


Today and early next week I will be cleaning up some of the sheetmetal welds and build the fenders on it. It tows well but is a little bouncy with no weight in it and no shocks under it yet
 

holidaynation

Observer
:clapsmile Looking very nice so far. Do you have an approximate finished dry weight? I like the swinging front side doors/hatch/
 

F3X

New member
Spring hangers welded on, my welds are starting to look much better
P9050040.jpg

Just a suggestion:
You may want to hit that one again just to be safe. Looks like a cold weld, sort of sits on top rather than penetrating into the base metal. Grind flush (maybe even grind a "V' in the joint) and run a new bead so you won't have any issues on the trail.
 

K2ZJ

Explorer
Just a suggestion:
You may want to hit that one again just to be safe. Looks like a cold weld, sort of sits on top rather than penetrating into the base metal. Grind flush (maybe even grind a "V' in the joint) and run a new bead so you won't have any issues on the trail.

Agreed, looks like you went to fast. I know you were filling a natural groove from the rounded edge of the tube, but still looks weak. Maybe a plate across the back can be added for support.
 

fingas

Observer
Agreed, looks like you went to fast. I know you were filling a natural groove from the rounded edge of the tube, but still looks weak. Maybe a plate across the back can be added for support.

Looking at it in the picture it kind of looks like it but up close it looks good. It is a little easier to see the penetration on the ends and if you look at it closely the bead that is showing here is laid into the fairly deep groove that is formed by the rolled edge of the frame steel. It is also rosette welded in two places and welded on the ends.

I have to grind it down a little bit to get the door on that side to close as the door frame hits it. I will take a look at the penetration when i do. Thanks for the advice.
 

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