qwopzxnm
Adventurer
I'm interested as well depending on price.
Edgestar Fridge Modifications Thread
- Thread starter 02TahoeMD
- Start date
I'm interested as well depending on price.
KK6POV
Adventurer
Tie Downs!!!!! They haven't been made yet so sign up now!
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ynter-Tie-downs-New-Run?p=1920902#post1920902
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ynter-Tie-downs-New-Run?p=1920902#post1920902
KK6POV
Adventurer
Anyone interested in these? since we will be lopping off the 115v end it doesn't matter which direction the 90 goes, I am going to ask if they could make a run without the 115 end for less $$$
http://www.quail.com/P-1078.059/Pow...-Polarized-To-Iec60320c7-Leftright-Angle.aspx
http://www.quail.com/P-1078.059/Pow...-Polarized-To-Iec60320c7-Leftright-Angle.aspx
snowblind
Adventurer
qwopzxnm
Adventurer
Happy Joe
Apprentice Geezer
...finally managed to get an Edgestar 43 qt. scratch and dent... Its way bigger than I expected...
Mine came without the DC cord but Open Box Direct said they would send me one... they seem to be helpful folks.
Thank you all for your mod posts in this thread; I will be doing several of them starting with handles... and perhaps fabricate some tie down brackets.
I have been looking at hand trucks and luggage carriers to move this fridge, and battery, around the campsites.
Enjoy!
Mine came without the DC cord but Open Box Direct said they would send me one... they seem to be helpful folks.
Thank you all for your mod posts in this thread; I will be doing several of them starting with handles... and perhaps fabricate some tie down brackets.
I have been looking at hand trucks and luggage carriers to move this fridge, and battery, around the campsites.
Enjoy!
Happy Joe
Apprentice Geezer
$279 and Open Box Direct sent the missing DC cord. I have been trying, several times most days since spring to get one from them; there seems to be a very limited and sporadic supply.
Have powered it up for testing on both 110 and 12 volts; looks like its more than enough to keep the beer chilled and the burgers froze.
There is a very minor dent in one corner (like it was set down hard); other than that there was a lot of shipping tape residue to remove and it looks nearly showroom new, I'm certain that condition varies... overall I'm impressed.
Enjoy!
Have powered it up for testing on both 110 and 12 volts; looks like its more than enough to keep the beer chilled and the burgers froze.
There is a very minor dent in one corner (like it was set down hard); other than that there was a lot of shipping tape residue to remove and it looks nearly showroom new, I'm certain that condition varies... overall I'm impressed.
Enjoy!
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RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
I just got around to installing my Edgestar 60qt.
Having the same 12v low voltage issues as everyone else.
It's not the wiring setup, all my wiring is 6 or 10 gauge and my blue seas fuse block is right next to my fridge, less than a 3 foot length. Even cutthe cig adapter off the their plug and wired right to fuse block.
I've read pages and pages on this known issue, but have a question.
Battery is a Brand New Deep Cycle Odyssey 2150, wired as an aux battery so it can be run as low as it needs.
Pulled it all apart and the connections are all good and tight.
I want to bypass the plugs all together and hardwire the fridge directly to the battery with some good cable, and a fuse.
Question, where do I tap into on the fridge for this?
As best I can tell, the blue and green wires that go into the temp control can be removed and used to hardwire the fridge.
Anyone have any insight?
Thanks!
Having the same 12v low voltage issues as everyone else.
It's not the wiring setup, all my wiring is 6 or 10 gauge and my blue seas fuse block is right next to my fridge, less than a 3 foot length. Even cutthe cig adapter off the their plug and wired right to fuse block.
I've read pages and pages on this known issue, but have a question.
Battery is a Brand New Deep Cycle Odyssey 2150, wired as an aux battery so it can be run as low as it needs.
Pulled it all apart and the connections are all good and tight.
I want to bypass the plugs all together and hardwire the fridge directly to the battery with some good cable, and a fuse.
Question, where do I tap into on the fridge for this?
As best I can tell, the blue and green wires that go into the temp control can be removed and used to hardwire the fridge.
Anyone have any insight?
Thanks!
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RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
But that would just bypass the CORD and not the temp controller, right?
I am looking to bypass the temp controller so it doesn't stop so why with plenty of juice left in the AUX battery
RAM5500 CAMPERTHING
OG Portal Member #183
Thanks, I have my 12v cord cut down to about 2.5 feet and wired directly to my fuse panel that is all wired up nicely with #4 cable.
I am going to try like hell to get this fridge to work properly because the dimensions fit exactly right for me.
When it's working before it goes into low voltage, it works perfectly.
whitenoise
Adventurer
Here are my Edgestar 86qt mods:
Fridge slideout - Built from 6061-T6 aluminum scrap pieces. The roller bearing slide is a 36" extension 250lb from TCHweb - these were under $40 shipped. Total weight of the slideout is under 20 lbs. Bolts to the 3rd row seat mounts using J-bolts. There is a 0.5" riser at the tailgate end of the slideout so that the fridge sits level with the ground when fully extended. This is the lowest profile slide I could come up with since I wanted the fridge to sit as low as possible in the vehicle.
Handle/Tiedown Mount Plate - Also built from 6061-T6. This was more work than I would have liked to do but came out nice and functional in the end. The heavy-duty chest handles I bought from TCHweb did not suit themselves to drilling the 6 original mount holes so I made this interface plate. The 1/2"x13 tapped holes at the edges use cargo tiedown bolt plates from US Cargo control. The 1" cam-buckle tiedowns are cut down ones from Harbor Freight.
Electrical - I started out with the supplied wiring, but quickly figured out it is grossly inadequate when the low voltage shutoff came on after barely 12 hours of use despite the battery voltage being above 12V. To pinpoint the problem, I wired in a GT power RC battery meter which allowed me to log min voltage, peak amps, and gross amp-hours. The fridge was pulling nearly 7 amps with the compressor on and this pointed mainly to the voltage drop through the factory wiring. So I wired in a separate circuit using a single fused 10 gauge TXL wire directly from the battery. I used a factory ground near the cig plug at the back thus avoiding running two wires to the front.
On the fridge end, I bought some "SJOOW portable power cord" from Lowe's. This is a 10 gauge cable that contains 3 conductors so it is girthy but it is very high quality and cheap. I removed the wimpy DC panel-mount connector and wired directly to the 12V power supply inside the fridge, with the GT-Power RC battery meter in the center. The connection is made through an Anderson SB 45 Amp connector which is probably overkill but it is again, a high quality and durable connector.
All of this works great. I was able to run the fridge for 36 hours straight and that's as far as I felt confident it wouldn't reduce battery life. The peak amp draw is now only 5 Amps, and the average draw is only about 1 Amp.
Fridge slideout - Built from 6061-T6 aluminum scrap pieces. The roller bearing slide is a 36" extension 250lb from TCHweb - these were under $40 shipped. Total weight of the slideout is under 20 lbs. Bolts to the 3rd row seat mounts using J-bolts. There is a 0.5" riser at the tailgate end of the slideout so that the fridge sits level with the ground when fully extended. This is the lowest profile slide I could come up with since I wanted the fridge to sit as low as possible in the vehicle.
Handle/Tiedown Mount Plate - Also built from 6061-T6. This was more work than I would have liked to do but came out nice and functional in the end. The heavy-duty chest handles I bought from TCHweb did not suit themselves to drilling the 6 original mount holes so I made this interface plate. The 1/2"x13 tapped holes at the edges use cargo tiedown bolt plates from US Cargo control. The 1" cam-buckle tiedowns are cut down ones from Harbor Freight.
Electrical - I started out with the supplied wiring, but quickly figured out it is grossly inadequate when the low voltage shutoff came on after barely 12 hours of use despite the battery voltage being above 12V. To pinpoint the problem, I wired in a GT power RC battery meter which allowed me to log min voltage, peak amps, and gross amp-hours. The fridge was pulling nearly 7 amps with the compressor on and this pointed mainly to the voltage drop through the factory wiring. So I wired in a separate circuit using a single fused 10 gauge TXL wire directly from the battery. I used a factory ground near the cig plug at the back thus avoiding running two wires to the front.
On the fridge end, I bought some "SJOOW portable power cord" from Lowe's. This is a 10 gauge cable that contains 3 conductors so it is girthy but it is very high quality and cheap. I removed the wimpy DC panel-mount connector and wired directly to the 12V power supply inside the fridge, with the GT-Power RC battery meter in the center. The connection is made through an Anderson SB 45 Amp connector which is probably overkill but it is again, a high quality and durable connector.
All of this works great. I was able to run the fridge for 36 hours straight and that's as far as I felt confident it wouldn't reduce battery life. The peak amp draw is now only 5 Amps, and the average draw is only about 1 Amp.
plh
Explorer
This one for the GT-Power-RC?
http://www.amazon.com/GT-Power-Analyzer-Consumption-Performance/dp/B00C1BZSYO
http://www.amazon.com/GT-Power-Analyzer-Consumption-Performance/dp/B00C1BZSYO