LC Industries Water Can Pics

rayra

Expedition Leader
Wouldn't happen to have the viton equivalents handy, would you? I'm considering using some of these for gasoline.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader

Yeah I'm aware of that topic and it's full of a lot of misinformation / generic lore about old metal gas cans. The milspec plastic MWC and MFC are both made from HDPE-2, have no 'liner coating' and the only technical difference between them is the number of handles and the configuration of the neck and cap. They have the same minimum wall thickness spec (1/10th inch / 2.5mm) And a new MWC with undamaged original seal wedge doesn't leak. It's only when they get gouged and nicked or fouled with grit that there's any trouble. And that's just as true with the MFC cap design. The gaskets are insurance.
I use a Simple Siphon & hose with all my fuel containers anyway, so the shape of the opening / cap doesn't matter to me.
 

teotwaki

Excelsior!
I have Scepter brand water containers which rely on a simple V shaped groove in the cap to mate with the V shaped lip of the can with both being about 1/8" wide. The Fuel can has a flat 5/8" lip to mate with the lid's Viton gasket. So the gasket version is overkill compared to the small V friction fit even on a hot day when the MFC is swelled up like a balloon at 15 to 30 PSI and bouncing in a vehicle?

The "technical difference" between the two is specified in boring detail for the MFC in A-A-59592A such as:

The fuel can assembly shall show no evidence of rupture, cracks, or leakage when tested in accordance with the Drop Strength Test of ASTM F852 from a
minimum height of 2.4 meters (m) [8 feet (ft)]. After completion of the drops, the fuel can assembly shall be inverted for a minimum of 5 minutes and observed for leakage. Leakage shall be defined as visible moisture from the contents apparent on any external surface of the fuel can assembly. Any leakage from the fuel can assembly shall constitute failure.
....
The fuel can assembly shall show no evidence of rupture, cracks, or leakage when tested in accordance with the Hydrostatic Pressure Test of ASTM F852,
using an internal gage pressure of 206.8 kilopascals (kPa) [30 pounds per square inch (psi)] maintained for one hour. Any evidence of rupture, cracks, or leakage constitutes failure of the test"



The spec for the water can (MIL-DTL-43613E) has no pressure requirements.

Anyhow, that thread that I cited does correctly identify that both cans use the same plastic and that there is no liner. Like many other threads, the better information can be towards the end but either way more than a cursory reading is required.
Interesting video on LCI water cans: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEJtBIkdAJw
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
'Improvise, adapt and overcome' (shrug)

Interesting vid, but it 'solves' a lot of self-created issues. If you use a cap or strap wrench to bear down, you get the friction rub-off debris mentioned in the vid. They're HDPE-2, they're soft plastic. Make them tight enough, you crack the lid. You don't have to make them more than hand-tight.
Guy says 'I have expensive **** in my vehicle I can't get wet, but I chose to lay my MWCs on their side. Wrong packing config, wrong water storage solution, etc etc.

The answer to the vent cap is remove it and replace it with a bolt / nut. Seal it shut.

Furthermore your pointing out that there's no bursting spec on a water container is funny / ironic. The absence of a spec doesn't mean it's weaker, it just means nobody cares if a WATER container bursts, it isn't a hazard considered worthy of a specification. 'The Perils of Di-Hydrogen Monoxide'!!1!


Even funnier is the guy in the subsequent video demonstrating fitting a self-venting spigot to his MWCs who with a straight face advises the use of a lithium lube on the fittings of his potable water container. Talk about missing the point of carrying potable water. Lithium is a toxic metal. and like a lot of meds it's safe in infinitesimal doses and will kill you in heavier dosages. NOT something you should use on your water supply.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OH11sNFjHI


I used MWCs and MFCs for years in the Marines and since. I own LCI MWCs. They don't leak when new / unabused. Filled, on their side, with my fat *** jumping on them, they don't leak.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/135929-Jerry-Can-MWC-MFC-stowage-box-build

jerrybox11_zpsf131ccda.jpg



The pile of junk I used to drive around back in those days. The only cans that leaked then were those whose fittings looked like they'd been chewed by somebody's dog.

clampett.jpg



I'm sanguine about making it work. It's worth $50 or more per container to me to give it a try with the viton gaskets. Guess I'll go figure out the right-sized gaskets myself and convert one as a proof / example.
I will speak of it no more. The determined resistance to thinking outside the box / lines is just too dissatisfying. Stay within the lines, the lines are your friend.
 
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teotwaki

Excelsior!
--------------
I will speak of it no more. The determined resistance to thinking outside the box / lines is just too dissatisfying. Stay within the lines, the lines are your friend.

I see. Disagreement with your dogma must not be tolerated. Fall into line. Wear your PT belt at all times. Obey orders. Keep women off of the front line. Threaten to "speak of it no more". :drool:
 

qwopzxnm

Adventurer
Ok, guys. Here is the dirt on the o-rings for the LC Industries Water Can. You need all three.
You can get them from http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=367_144
Make sure you get Buna-N FDA O-Rings which is what you need for potable water.
Here are the 3 sizes, you need one of each for one can....

9/16"ID X 11/16"OD X 1/16"CS (For Vent Cap)
014 B70 FDA Black Buna-N 70 O-ring (FDAB70014) $0.04 each

7/8"ID X 1 1/16"OD X 3/32"CS (For Pouring Cap)
118 B70 FDA Black Buna-N 70 O-ring (FDAB70118) $0.12 each

3 1/2"ID X 3 11/16"OD X 3/32"CS (For Large Filling Cap)
153 B70 FDA Black Buna-N 70 O-ring (FDAB70153) $0.54 each

First of all, thank you for the link and the very descriptive post. I went to order a set of these for some new LCI Water Cans and noticed something. The item number and dimensions you posted for the pouring cap and large filling cap are right on, but the vent cap has the dimensions of 9/16"ID X 11/16"OD X 1/16", and the item number of 014 B70 O-ring.

When I look on the site, the dimensions for 014 B70 O-ring are actually 1/2"ID X 5/8"OD X 1/16". Then I saw that the dimensions for the 015 B70 match those in your original description at 9/16"ID X 11/16"OD X 1/16".

So to finalize my long winded question, is the 014 B70 the correct item but you copied the wrong dimensions?
Or are the dimensions you posted correct but the item should be the 015 B70? Thanks again for your help.
 

teotwaki

Excelsior!
snip a a bunch-----------
Furthermore your pointing out that there's no bursting spec on a water container is funny / ironic. The absence of a spec doesn't mean it's weaker, it just means nobody cares if a WATER container bursts, it isn't a hazard considered worthy of a specification. 'The Perils of Di-Hydrogen Monoxide'!!1! --------

They DHMO-WCs have no bursting spec because no engineer or corporate lawyer is worried about the pressure of DHMO vapor overwhelming a non-gasketed v-shaped groove yet they would justifiably condemn the ill-fated storage of fossil fuels in such containers. The lid of the DHMO-WC is designed not to leak when that container holds nothing but DHMO. The hilarity of your casual dismissal of engineering specifications is lost on you but hardly a surprise based on your vociferous hand waving and feckless claims of sanguinity. I imagine that is why you try to place ownership of another's YourTube video at my doorstep, a temporary but unsuccessful distraction on your part.

I will speak of it no more. The determined resistance to thinking outside the box / lines is just too dissatisfying. Stay within the lines, the lines are your friend.

So if someone factually disagrees with your misguided efforts you loudly announce you will "speak of it no more", drop out for a month and suddenly reappear to argue about irrelevant tidbits. Still no demonstrated method offered for well tested and safe storage of flammable liquids in a water container. Such tomfoolery with gasoline is a shiver looking for a spine to run up. (Apologies to Keating)

It would safer for all concerned to purchase a new Rotopax Gas Pack than the pursue the unsafe conversion of a water can and its lid.
 

All-Terrain

No Road Required
Does the water in these tan/sand-colored water cans get hot if you leave them in the sun all day?

Hoping to use one as water storage for a camp shower.
 

qwopzxnm

Adventurer

rayra

Expedition Leader
Sure they get hot in the sun, just like everything else. It was always so refreshing to drink that hot plastic-tasting water when it was 120F in 29 Palms.
 

teotwaki

Excelsior!
Sure they get hot in the sun, just like everything else. It was always so refreshing to drink that hot plastic-tasting water when it was 120F in 29 Palms.

What? You don't bring along your Overland Icemaker? :sombrero:
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Close as I ever got to an ARB fridge, ~25yrs ago. Back when 'overlanding' was 'off-roading' or 'Combined Arms Exercise' or 'Invasion training'

clampett.jpg



/and the water cans buried in that Clampett wagon were the same color and spec as these LCI cans are today. My desert tan MWCs now are all from LCI, but the last time I bought any they were $50 for (3) and it included free shipping. They're still good as new today.

jerrybox11_zpsf131ccda.jpg
storagebuild139_zpsotapkzr0.jpg
 

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