Fun Topic- Which Spark Plugs?

S

Street Wolf

Guest
So, first off, I used the search and by the time I got done sorting through most spark plug related threads my head hurt and I was no closer to a decision than I was to begin with.

I'm changing the wires soon, so I'm going to do the plugs at the same time.


So which spark plug should I run, and not only which ones, but also why?
 

Viggen

Just here...
I run just regular NGKs. I hate Champions and have found that they foul easier than NGKs.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Copper is a better conductor than Platinum.
Platinum has a higher melting point that copper, but both are outside the range of what the spark temp should be.
The arc is going to jump the gap with the least resistance.
Only for the NAS builds does the manual suggest Platinums for the DII, and not for all years at that.

I use the cheapest copper plugs I can find, usually Auto-lite, and maintain them.
If you don't want to maintain them, Platinum might be better as they don't erode as fast as copper.
No one has explained to any my satisfaction the advantage of 2-4 electrodes vs just 1.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Extra electrodes, I believe, they wear slower. The spark moves around on successive sparks, taking the path of least resistance. I dunno. I don't buy them. There's a lot of bunk in the spark plug industry.
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
I use the cheapest copper plugs I can find, usually Auto-lite, and maintain them.
If you don't want to maintain them, Platinum might be better as they don't erode as fast as copper.

I run bosch platinum +4s in the D2, for two reasons:
1 when the new motor was rebuilt, that is what came in the motor.
2. I don't want to maintain the plugs, its not an enjoyable process changing the plugs on the truck.

I do run autolites in both the race cars, I also change them every oil change(about every 1500 miles). An additional 6-9$ isn't that big a deal especially when synthetic is already 4-9$ a pint.

-Sam
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Did it come with Platinum +4's? That's interesting. Why are so many people so against them? (I have no idea, I don't touch the plugs on my truck either.)
 

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
So, first off, I used the search and by the time I got done sorting through most spark plug related threads my head hurt and I was no closer to a decision than I was to begin with.

I'm changing the wires soon, so I'm going to do the plugs at the same time.


So which spark plug should I run, and not only which ones, but also why?

Street Wolf,
IMHO don't mess around with trying to figure out the spark plugs. This is one of those items it is best to just trust in the engineering that went into the vehicle to begin with. Many aftermarket options that are "marketed" well may not work well with the system and actually cause headaches.

I suggest going to NAPA and getting the Champion plugs. Land Rover has thier plugs made by champion and the number can be directly cross referenced to the Champion publicly sold plugs. NAPA carries them for about $5.50 each vs $19 at the dealership.

I did a write up somewhere here on this. I will look for it and post a link.

Regards,
Brian
 
Last edited:

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
Did it come with Platinum +4's? That's interesting. Why are so many people so against them? (I have no idea, I don't touch the plugs on my truck either.)

Because people love to be controversial. Tom runs autolites, I love autolites since they are cheap and disposable, but there are also guys that have had broken autolites that ruin their cylinders. Generally its an A/F or a maintenance thing but next thing you know half the world hates autolites.

Bosch Platinums are used in BMW, MBenz, a bunch of other engines. I think a good bosch/ngk/champion/etc plug at the right heat range should be fine. If you have issues then you can change them out. Too much heresay and secondary info about plugs, etc.

Also all that hogwash about lining your plugs up the same way gives you more HP, etc its all BS. As is the whole grind down to your tips to a point. If you really need all that, upgrade your wires and ignition system.

-Sam
 

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=356105&postcount=27

This is from when I did it:
-----------------------------
Ok, Done with the plug and wire swap.

Spark Plugs
I went with the OEM Champion plugs, these are the exact same plugs they sell at the dealership for a 2001 DII.
Plug ID # is RC11PYPB4
Champion Stock # is 7070, sold in boxes of four.
Dealership price is $19 per plug.
Most Land Rover focused online retailers have them for $12
NAPA price was $5.49 per plug and they were in stock, thanks NAPA!

Spark Plug Wires
Magnacor 8mm
Inventory # 80242
Note that the stock wires are 7mm, the extra mm gained from the 8mm wires is insulation which provides about 100 degrees of additional temperature tolerance for these wires, extending their life. These are highly recommended on all of the Land Rover forums and have proven to be a solid substitute for OEM wires.
Most online retailers have them for $100-$111, Magnacor sells direct to the public too and quoted $130 for the set before shipping.
I purchased my set from Apex Performance .com. They sell them for $85.90 and I used a 10% coupon code from a BMW forum, for a final price of $77.
This is compared to the dealership price of $45 per wire, $349 for the set of 8.

Installation took about 2.5 hours going very slowly, I wanted to be methodical and I was also just taking my time to enjoy the job. To do it again I could probably crank through it in an hour. I replaced all the plugs first and then disconnected all of the wires from the coil packs. I then found exact matches for the new wires using the old wires so I would have no issues with length. I numbered each of the new wires with a sharpie and used a diagram of the coil pack sequence to connect the new wires.
I also disconnected the battery while working on the coil packs just in case, I had no idea if I could be shocked or not so better safe. An added bonus to disconnecting the battery is that it cleared the soft codes and the SES light went out. So far I have two key sequences and about three miles with no SES light. The engine sounds great, back to normal with no sign of misfire.
-------------------------------

Good luck
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Looking at the manuals it seems to depend on where you are located as to what plugs are spec'd, and which year, even for the same engine. Some are copper some are platinum.

There actually is an advantage to clocking your plugs, but whether or not there's any benifit in Land Rover. I suspect not.
Never heard about grinding down the electrodes to points, but you'd definitely be regapping often.

Many years ago, when I sold them, I used Kingsborne wires (I haven't sold them in over 15 years).
A few years ago I installed Magnecore on my '95 Disco.
I've since gone back to Kingsborne as they seem to be of equal quality to Magnecore, for about 1/2 the price.
When I ordered the Kingsborne I also ordered some of their 8mm wire separators as 8mm wires tend to fall out of the 7mm separators.
 
Last edited:

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
Spark Plug Wires
Magnacor 8mm
Inventory # 80242
Note that the stock wires are 7mm, the extra mm gained from the 8mm wires is insulation which provides about 100 degrees of additional temperature tolerance for these wires, extending their life. These are highly recommended on all of the Land Rover forums and have proven to be a solid substitute for OEM wires.
Most online retailers have them for $100-$111, Magnacor sells direct to the public too and quoted $130 for the set before shipping.
I purchased my set from Apex Performance .com. They sell them for $85.90 and I used a 10% coupon code from a BMW forum, for a final price of $77.
This is compared to the dealership price of $45 per wire, $349 for the set of 8.

Installation took about 2.5 hours going very slowly, I wanted to be methodical and I was also just taking my time to enjoy the job. To do it again I could probably crank through it in an hour. I replaced all the plugs first and then disconnected all of the wires from the coil packs. I then found exact matches for the new wires using the old wires so I would have no issues with length. I numbered each of the new wires with a sharpie and used a diagram of the coil pack sequence to connect the new wires.
I also disconnected the battery while working on the coil packs just in case, I had no idea if I could be shocked or not so better safe. An added bonus to disconnecting the battery is that it cleared the soft codes and the SES light went out. So far I have two key sequences and about three miles with no SES light. The engine sounds great, back to normal with no sign of misfire.
-------------------------------

Good luck

Got my wires at the same place. If you have SAI, bank on it taking you longer than an hour.

On my 03 we did it on the engine stand, if we didnt, it would have taken me forever but I do have big hands...

-Sam
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
I really thought about changing my wires when I had the transmission out. With the trans gone and the engine tipped back, it would be easy to do from underneath. But, I was trying to resist shipfitter's disease and just get the job done.
 

Brian McVickers

Administrator
Staff member
Additional word of caution:

The manual says to access the coils by removing the air intake and throttle body.

The other way to do it is to lay on top of the engine and squeeze your hands back behind the engine to access the coils - this is what I did.

In the process I put pressure on and cracked a plastic nipple that goes into the throttle body.

For all the money I saved on the plugs and wires ---- that little nipple cost $45 at the dealer and was the only place I could find it! It is a pretty standard 1/4 inch nipple but ther is a 1/8 inch regulator hole on the inside that makes it proprietary! ---- So becarful laying on top of the engine.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,533
Messages
2,875,598
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top