Small Garage, Big Project

Tom Foolery

Adventurer
Next, I started work on the side steps. I wanted them to be strong enough to actually be able to hold some weight, so I made them beefy. The back step sides would have to be strong enough to hold a 20lbs. propane tank. I used 2"x 2"x1/8" square tube for this part. The main frame was done with 2-1/2"x 2-1/2"x 1/8" stock. My plan was to later fill the side step with #9 expanded metal.


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Tom Foolery

Adventurer
After welding the side steps on, working in my MICRO GARAGE became a bit of a trick. But I managed to snake around in there to get things done. Once I got the axle on I could just roll her outside but I was waiting on parts for that as well as getting $$$ together for that part.


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Tom Foolery

Adventurer
I'm not a sheet metal worker so I didn't have access to a brake for bending. Also, I wanted to have my side boxes with a little extra strength, (Bear proof), well, maybe not??? . So I made an internal frame for the side boxes just like the main box. I used 1"x 1" x .063 square tube for this part. After framing up the side boxes, I would have 16 gauge sheet metal cut a little over size and I would grind to fit the needed size.

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Titanpat57

Expedition Leader
Your cutting, welding and layout skillz are magnificant.

Very nice travel lodge also...the stove must come in handy on those nippy nights!

40 lbs of propane is a a lot to carry in the outback..not to be nosey but do you use several gas appliances?

Thanks, and great work!

Pat
 

Tom Foolery

Adventurer
I was originally going to use 10lbs propane tanks, but found that the standard 20lbs. tanks are much more common and easier to refill. Here in California you just trade in your tank for another one which will be full. Most Home Depot's and Walmart's do that for the 20lbs size only. Also, its nice to have a good supply of propane in case of emergencies ie: earthquake, floods, etc...
 

Tom Foolery

Adventurer
To fill in the side steps I used 3/4" #9 Steel Expanded Metal. I made some cardboard cut out patterns and cut the expanded metal with a 5" cutting blade. Bending the metal was not as easy as I'd hoped it would be, but after a few failed attempts I finally got it right and could be welded on later as I continued.


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RabidRover

Observer
wow ... that is a functional piece of art! I think you have inspired me to try making my own. I doubt it will be anywhere as nice as yours though. Thanks for sharing. :Wow1:
 

Tom Foolery

Adventurer
The doors for the side boxes and back of main box were my next task. For the side boxes I used 3/4"x 3/4"x .063 square tube. This would allow enough space for weather stripping foam and the skin itself which was made from 16 gauge sheet metal. I also used a 1-1/2" x 1/8" piece of strap for something to apply the weather stripping to and to channel the water out and away from leaking inside the box.



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Tom Foolery

Adventurer
I wanted to make the doors removable so I used aluminum threadserts to mount the heavy duty piano hinges to the box and doors. I was able to find a cheap enough threadsert gun and threadserts (6-32 thread) at Harbor Freight.


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Tom Foolery

Adventurer
For the back doors I used 1-1/2"x 1-1/2" x .063 square tube for the framing and 2" x 1/8" strap for the backing area for weather stripping. The doors were mounted by 1/4-20 bolts and threadserts and heavy duty piano hinges.



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