'10 Tundra CrewMax

zidaro

Explorer
Here is what is available for the 2nd gen Tundra

Front and rear 4.88 Gear Change Package for 07+ Tundra with 5.7L:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/GPTUNDRA5-7-4-88-p/gptundra5.7-4.88.htm

Rear Auburn LSD for 10.5:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/AG5420134-PRO-p/ag5420134-pro.htm

Rear ARB Air locker:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/ARB-RD146-p/arbrd146.htm

Front ARB Air Locker
http://www.justdifferentials.com/ARB-RD151-p/arbrd151.htm

Carl is THE man, is a wealth of knowledge, and they have a sick 2nd gen Tundra that has been built and is a test platform they work with.
 

cwvandy

Adventurer
Great build and tutorial!!! Thank you. Looking forward to hearing how this all works out for you.
I was inspired.
Placed my order today:
4.88 Nitro gears
Rear Auburn LSD (decided this rather than ARB for practicality reasons)
Front ARB Air locker.
 

zidaro

Explorer
Great build and tutorial!!! Thank you. Looking forward to hearing how this all works out for you.
I was inspired.
Placed my order today:
4.88 Nitro gears
Rear Auburn LSD (decided this rather than ARB for practicality reasons)
Front ARB Air locker.

Sickness!!
you will be stoked. Lets see it on the board
 

Tatted

Adventurer
love this thread, has given me tons of inspiration for mine, question, Fiance and I are getting ready to buy a slide in camper, did you ever put a tie down system on your sliders?
 

cwvandy

Adventurer
Will get this thing put back together today. Very excited to give it a test run once I get some hours on it.
Had a several day delay. Had to send the Auburn unit back as the internal splines were bad on one side and the axle would not fit in. One side fit like a glove. The other would not slide in. I didn't want to try and force it and the internal splines are just too hard to get to. Sort of a bummer to have to take everything apart, clean it up, send it back and start over with a new unit. Plumbing the front locker into my on-board air system and wiring the value/switch set up today.
I was wondering what sort of a break in process you used for when you first drove it>
 

zidaro

Explorer
I have always babied my gears on breakin!

mild driving for first hundred, mellow driving for first 500. No towing or hauling first 500. change gear oil out at 500.
first 4 drives- 10-15 minutes then let cool for 20min. between each. that should get to your first 100.

front is tougher, getting a 500 mi. breakin could take quite awhile. I have a lot of dirt roads close, so easy to get the first 100 in, and since its no crawler i am not whomping/flogging on it in 4wd for this year and it will then be broken in by end of summer.



for the CAMPER TIEDOWN question Tat!

I never changed it from the straps on the front. They have worked great and i think they actually work better than a fixed solid tie system cuz they allow the camper to flex and shift around a tad in the bed when i get a little loose on my travels :) My buddy is now running his the same and he's loving it that way as well.
 

Tatted

Adventurer
not being too dumb:peepwall: , but how do you have your straps hooked? I don't have the camper yet, so I'm trying to figure it out....thanks in advance
 

zidaro

Explorer
originally i just had the strap running between the cab and body down to the frame.
When i added the sliders, i welded a hook onto the slider at the frame. the strap attaches smoothly in an area that now has no abrasion possibilities. Still runs between cab and bed and attaches to the campers jacks, i feel this pulls the camper forward and keeps it centered well.
 

Tatted

Adventurer
Thanks for the info. Ordering sliders today and we purchased a slide in on Saturday Ready for summer
 

cwvandy

Adventurer
Just returned from 10 days in Death Valley testing gears and lockers. Magnificent changes. Gears make towing much easier and seems to handle all the weight better. Traction difference over wheels-in-the-air terrain dramatically better. Broke the gears in for about 400 miles before taking off. I took it easy in 4 wheel drive for a couple hundred miles and all seems good. Thanks again for the tutorial and inspiration. I highly recommend this others.
 

Mccool

Observer
Just returned from 10 days in Death Valley testing gears and lockers. Magnificent changes. Gears make towing much easier and seems to handle all the weight better. Traction difference over wheels-in-the-air terrain dramatically better. Broke the gears in for about 400 miles before taking off. I took it easy in 4 wheel drive for a couple hundred miles and all seems good. Thanks again for the tutorial and inspiration. I highly recommend this others.

Zidaro, great looking truck!

As a fellow tundra owner, I'm curious why both of you decided on the auburn limited slip for the rear as opposed to the arb air locker?
 

motrhed

Observer
Zidaro, how are your Icon upper control arms holding up in the snow/slush/mud/dirt? In the winter, do your area highway crews use salt on the roads? I live and work on the eastern slopes of the Rockies and have been considering uniball style control arms but have heard that they squeak, groan, and wear prematurely in day to day use under these harsh conditions. Your insight on this would be appreciated.
 
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abakker

New member
Here's my first post on this board - I have the Icon UCAs and have been driving them in multiple different weather situations for the last 4 months. So far, they aren't squeaking at all. Where I have had the most squeaking was the old rear shackles, which seem to creak/groan no matter how much grease I put in them. I went with the tubular ones, rather than the Billet ones, since I didn't like the pinch bolts on the rear heim joints. At 2.5 inches of lift, its worth noting that with the Tubular Icon UCAs, I still can't get Caster within spec. I'm fine with that, and haven't had any problems from it, but you probably won't get a perfect alignment on Camber, Caster, and toe. With the lift and wider tires, you want to sacrifice Caster. If you go with the Billet, you will probably be able to get Caster correct, but I worry about extra eventually loosening or failing. If you want more than 2.5 inches of lift, I can't say whether the Billet ones would be necessary to get camber correct as well.
 

zidaro

Explorer
Zidaro, how are your Icon upper control arms holding up in the snow/slush/mud/dirt? In the winter, do your area highway crews use salt on the roads? I live and work on the eastern slopes of the Rockies and have been considering uniball style control arms but have heard that they squeak, groan, and wear prematurely in day to day use under these harsh conditions. Your insight on this would be appreciated.

Sorry i missed this!

Thanks for the post abakker, and welcome to the forum! Throw up some truck photos, if not a thread, then just in the Tundrabirds Thread.

So, No noise or wear in my uniball UCA's noted as of now. As in, they do not squeak at all. The billet cover over the uni works amazingly well and has a rubber oring to seal out moisture coming in the top.
Don't have Salt on our winter roads, but they did put down some strange spray treatment this Fall that makes the snow melt- may have a salt-like effect but i hope not. I do have correct caster with my alignment and my pinch bolts are extended out (but not dangerously)- been beating on them mildly for 4 years and they are not loose or causing any worry as of yet. I check on them often enough.


Oh, might add- LOVE the Auburn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Bushwacker Inc.

Supporting Sponsor
Nice, thorough build thread and a good looking truck. I've got a few friends with nicely built Tundras, including a co-worker here.

- Andy
 

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