Lake Eyre & Oodnadatta Track

Touring4x4

Adventurer
Lake Eyre & Oodnadatta Track

Lake Eyre and the Oodnadatta Track are in the desert regions of Northern South Australia. A remote and inhospitable place that is known for breaking vehicles and people but equally a beautiful arid area well worth visiting by adventurous people in well set up vehicles.

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This trip starts at Lyndhurst in the Northern Flinders Ranges and has always been the jumping off point for many outback adventures and the end of the bitumen. At least this used to be the case but there is now an intermittent bitumen road through to Marree, comprising five kilometre sections of bitumen separated by up to seven kilometres of good gravel road. Lyndhurst is the start of the Oodnadatta Track and is also the start of the equally adventurous Strzelecki Track.

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For those starting this journey from the Flinders Ranges or from Adelaide there is a well set up campground at Farina, midway between Lyndhurst and Marree. This is highly recommended as a stopover point and somewhere that is worth a side trip to explore the once sprawling town of Farina that is now nothing but ruins. For those with limited time continue on to Marree for your last fuel and supplies until William Creek.

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Marree is one of the major towns on the old Ghan line that has survived and flourished as a welcome oasis for outback travellers. Heritage icons on display in the town centre include several old diesel locomotives, one of Tom Kruses’ old mail trucks and a mosque preserved as a tribute to the Afghan cameleers that helped open up the area and gave their name to the Ghan railway.

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Other places worth visiting include the Marree Hotel, a sandstone two storey beauty, and the rather eccentric sounding Lake Eyre Yacht Club. Several charter planes in Marree will take tourists over the lake and to see other sights including the almost vanished infamous Marree Man.

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Approximately two kilometres West of town on the Oodnadatta Track is the short track to Hergott Spring. This was the original name for the town of Marree but was changed due to anti-German sentiment after World War One. Returning to the main track there is a well signposted road on the right, about three kilometres out of Marree, that takes you out to Muloorina Campground.

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This is a fifty kilometre drive on a well maintained gravel road, passing at one point through the Dog Fence, which brings you to the superb campground on the banks of the Frome River. Based around a permanent waterhole that feeds a large wetlands area this camp has a swimming area, a large choice of campsites and flushing well maintained toilets. For a donation via the usual outback honesty system this is a wonderful place to stay for a day or three.

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Day tripping from Muloorina its about a twenty five kilometre drive out to the shores of Lake Eyre South, on another corrugated but good gravel road, and then follow the shoreline North to the channel between the two lakes and eventually Lake Eyre itself at Level Post Bay.

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This last twenty kilometre section is rough and sandy in places but well within the capabilities of a four wheel drive vehicle. Level Post Bay is the spot where Donald Campbell set up base for his successful bid to break the world land speed record in his Bluebird car in 1964. When we visited in April the lake was dry as far as the eye can see. For bird watchers, nature lovers, outback visitors and photographers this location is a must see. Being in the SouthEast corner of the lake the views across its expanse are something to behold. While out here make sure you stay for a magnificent outback sunset over the Western side of the bay.

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From Muloorina you return to the Oodnadatta Track and can either make the three kilometre trip back to Marree to refuel and restock or turn right towards William Creek. Along this section of the track there are many remnants from the old Ghan line including bridges across flood plains, rail sidings and buildings at Curdimurka and Beresford, water towers and other relics.
 

Touring4x4

Adventurer
Approximately thirty kilometres from Marree is the eccentric, amusing, amazing Mutonia Sculpture Park best known by travellers as Plane Henge. This collection of recycled items turned into art has been put together by artist Robin Cooke and is now a must see on the trip along the Oodnadatta Track. The collection includes a Ghan water tank turned into a dog or dingo that can be seen from many kilometres away, a couple of light aircraft stood up on their tails and a dream catcher. Allow plenty of time to wander around the park.

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As you get close to Curdimurka from the East there is a large parking area that is well signposted and allows views across Lake Eyre South. Curdimurka itself comprises a building, water tank and demin tower. Camping is allowed however it’s a very exposed location so Beresford, further up the track, is a better option if wanting to camp away from the crowds at Coward Springs.

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Cowards Springs, however, is a well placed stopover between Marree and William Creek. It has excellent facilities including toilets and showers and, given it’s a locally run privately owned campground, is good value. Plenty of shady campsites and of course a dunk in the spring is welcome relief in this arid sparsely vegetated region. Railway relics are signposted along short walking trails. Local attractions include the mound springs a short drive away, the most popular being Blanche Cup and the Bubbler. Both are worth the trip off the main track.

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Last stop on this trip is the campground at William Creek. Where once we slept in swags behind the pub with its tin shed showers, nowadays it’s the newer area across the road with modern amenities blocks, still growing trees, power and running water. It may not have the rugged adventurer charm of the old area but makes up for it in other ways. The days of Cessnas firing up next to your swag while you’re still waking from a big night at the pub are now just a memory. Fortunately so is the mud and overcrowded mayhem.

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Using William Creek as a base, it’s a 140km round trip out to see Lake Eyre. The track is in very good condition and suitable for most vehicles when dry. There are two areas to access the lake from on this track. Halligan Bay and ABC Bay both provide good views and access with water usually coming into Halligan Bay first. Early morning or late afternoon The track to ABC Bay allows us to drive right next to the lake surface and makes for great photos.

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The scenery on the Halligan Bay Track is superb and its arid moonscape alone is worth the price of admission.

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For anyone considering an outback four wheel drive adventure the Oodnadatta Track and Lake Eyre region is a must do trip with good camp sites, scenery and facilities making it a comfortable remote area experience. As with any four wheel drive trip the basic precautions and necessities apply. Weather plays an important part here too with searing summer temperatures and unpredictable rain storms at any time of year. A few millimetres of rain onto these tracks and they have all the grip of an ice rink. TransportSA will close the roads and tracks after light rain so always be prepared and carry provisions to cover being stranded out here for a few days.




Accessing the region
From the North East – via either Birdsville or Innamincka
From the East – via Yunta and Arkaroola
From the South and West – via Port Augusta
From the Centre – via Finke or Coober Pedy through Oodnadatta




Essentials
Food and water with extra allowance for unpredictable delays
Rain can close these tracks for days
Flynet and insect repellent
Tools and spares
Tyres in good condition, including spare(s). Tyre repair kit
Well maintained vehicle, tools and spare parts
Sense of adventure
 

Rot Box

Explorer
Wow that is incredible photography :Wow1:

Looks like an amazing place thank you for sharing it with us!
 

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