you need some spot putty to fill the pin holes. you just dab it in there, let it dry then sand down and prime. But, quit while your ahead. The first scratch wont hurt as bad then.
you need some spot putty to fill the pin holes. you just dab it in there, let it dry then sand down and prime. But, quit while your ahead. The first scratch wont hurt as bad then.
Gary
96 FZJ80
93 W250 Cummins
yup 3M makes it. I guess its more referred to as a glazing putty.
http://3mcollision.com/products/fill...tty-05098.html
I usually buy it a Napa or Carquest
Gary
96 FZJ80
93 W250 Cummins
for suspension, consider running some 83-85 toy front leafs. they are i think an inch shorter than yjs, if not the same, and a much higher spring rate. i had a set of 4" lift that were slightly used, and they matched the height of the 2.5 ome's i had in front. used them to replace the ome's in back. way to soft, killed them on the way to moab with my week long camping load. those toy springs can be found used for very cheap, or new and cheap as well. i would run some yj's up front, without missing links for stability. but run 6 leafs. get em from trailtough.com for $89 a piece. stock height.
for traction aids. if you are planning on staying with zuk axles, a guy here in colorado is working on making a cable locker for the rear sami. he is on zukikrawlers.com, goes by geckocycles. here is the link, http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=39814. it is in the last couple pages. he does awesome work, contact him if interested. otherwise, i would run toys or d44's. the d44's will help with center of gravity for sure. and both have options for selectable lockers.
good luck
joe
1994 Montero SR. 32/11.5 Build in progress
I was trying to get this rig done before October for a Maze trip, but I decided to take the slow approach and do my best to make the body as clean as possible.
Grinding all the paint off today from the Samurai body to start with a clean slate. Also doing all the nitpicky touch up stuff to make it look good from 2-3ft, instead of ten. It'll never be quite perfect, but the slow approach takes the stress out of trying to finish it by October.
It was so long ago now I cannot remember the exact grit number. We got it to the smooth stage with no visible sanding marks. Possibly around the 120 - 180 mark. We then two-pot gloss coated it to a fine finish then used cutting paste and polish head for the final polish. These were open water cruising sailboats up to 42' long. This was from the water line up. Water line down was finished in antifoul so a gloss finish wasn't necessary.
Are you using an idiot board? Long lengths of sand paper remove a lot of material for a marginal increase in effort.
"Good roads lead to bad fishing".
Eric Wight, Maine game warden
For a high gloss automotive finish you go to 600.
Gary
96 FZJ80
93 W250 Cummins
on that paint job you ought to give that guy parker that you bought the wheels and tires from a call. he did mine and I had him use the rustoleum gloss black that way when I need a touch up I can get the paint in a spray can for an easy touch up. Looking great by the way. Oh and if your interested in getting to know lots more samurai owners here in utah I started a facebook group called UTAH SAMURAI OWNERS and we have 27 members so far.
Thanks for the painting ideas and advice. Probably another couple weeks before I can paint.
any updates on the painting? what color and paint have you chosen?