97 Suburban 2500?

aiko670

New member
Hello all-

I'm looking to build a full size overland vehicle for my family. I have a wife, a baby and two large dogs. I used to have a 1990 Suburban 1500 and absolutly loved it but it was only 2wd.

  • The first suburban I'm looking at is again a 1990 1500 4X4 with a 350. I know it has a solid front axel and manual locking hubs. It only has 77,000mi on the clock and is great condition for it's age. It barely has any rust but really could use a paint job.
  • The second is a 1997 2500 4X4 with a 350 and 4X4.

I haven't had an opportunity to go look at the 97 yet so my question is, does it have a solid front axel? Will stock 1500 axels be able to handle 35's with a locker?

Any thoughts as to which would make a better starting platform?

I'm not looking to make it extreme. I'd like to do a minimal lift with either 33's or 35's max. Eventually I'd like to add lockers of some sort, at least in the back.

Cheers!
Adam
 

dragogt

Adventurer
The '97 has ifs, I see no problems runing 35's on the '90 it "should" have a 10 bolt front and a Dana 44 rear..
 

bftank

Explorer
the 1990 1500 will have a 10 bolt 30 spline rear. gm never put a dana 44 in the rear of a fullsize.

the 10 bolt rear will handle a locker that replaces the housing and 35's. like an arb. the front not so much. the 30 spline axle is hard to find lockers for since they were only made that way a couple of years. every other 10 bolt prior to 1989 was 28 spline.
 

coreys88burban

Adventurer
suburbans had a solid axle until 1991 and in 1992 along with the body change they got IFS, if your looking for toughness and true 4x4 capabilitys a solid axle 3/4 ton (2500) is best NOT a 1/2 ton 1500 BUT my dad had a 88 1/2 ton on 35's and we took it places you wouldnt believe and never broke any axles just be carefull. also tbi motors are injected so better mpg most of the time but a lot of people say they are underpowered and i can honestly say i agree. IMO get a clean 91 or older with an overdrive transmission and plan on a few thousand into it for what you want
 

coreys88burban

Adventurer
in your case i think its more of a body style choice, whatever one you like the looks of better get that one. also the 97 is a better engine by a lot.
 

1leg

Explorer
The 90 if it has barn doors, you can always update to 3/4 axels later if you want. I test drove a 96 2500 and it rode like crap not that my 89 3/4 rides any better. Get what ever has barn doors the back.
 

aiko670

New member
The 90 if it has barn doors, you can always update to 3/4 axels later if you want. I test drove a 96 2500 and it rode like crap not that my 89 3/4 rides any better. Get what ever has barn doors the back.

It does have barn doors and that's what I prefer but I'm not following what that has to do with the axels.
 

1leg

Explorer
Barn doors are a must have. You can run 35s on a 90 1500 without a problem other then a 3-4 inch lift.
The 97 will need a Lift also not sure home much.

You can swap the 1990 1/2 to axels to 3/4 ton axels if you want to in the future if you need stronger axels. You can not swap front axels in the 92 and newer models.

Side note make sure you get a truck with overdrive transmission. Both truck in your post will have them.
 

xpndbl3

Adventurer
I love my 1 ton suburban, started life as a 88 3/4 ton and then I tossed in a dana 60 and 14 bolt full flloater rear out of a 2007 diesel pickup, so I have huge 4 wheel disc brakes all around now. I have the tailgate rear and much prefer it over the barn doors IMO. On a 6" lift with 35s, swapping in a 5.3L out of a 2004 avalanche this spring, just finished the wiring harness for the swap the other day. I think you'll be happier with the solid front end and 3/4 ton axles are $300 to buy used at the most for front and rear to swap in, will take a weekend to do it.
 

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