What to look for in a 4x4

[4x4dreamin]

As some of you may know I am looking at buying a new truck. I decided that I am going to go with a 2001-2005ish silverado or sierra 4x4. Now I have not owned a 4 wheel drive and when I go to look certain trucks, what should I be looking for as far as the condition of the 4x4 drive terrain? Like what would be signs that the four wheel drive on the truck has not been taken care of or used properly? And is it bad if it is lifted, because I had hear that sometimes lifts can ruin the cv shafts if not done properly. Any input would be great, Thanks!!
One more question, is there much of a difference other than a skid plate and shocks between the z71 and regular 4x4? And is the 6.0L engine a lot worse on the gas mileage than a 5.3 might be?

 

[AchillesBogart]

The easiest indicator if it has been abused or hasn't been taken care of is the condition of the underside. I abused my first car off roading and it showed, dented metal, bent rods, broken parts, etc. Look for mud in the engine bay. Also look for new parts, if you see a lot of fresh parts that may be an indicator the rig you're looking at was abused and fixed up to sell. Profile the person. Do they have other 4x4 rigs around? If so what kind of shape are they in? Take a quick look at the owner's manual for how to shift into 4wd and if it doesn't work or the owner says you have to shift it a certain way for it to go; walk away. Also test drive it in 4wd. Personally I prefer a manual 4wd shifter as opposed to the electronic variety. I don't know what would happen if the 4wd selector went out, but I drove a vehicle with dual gas tanks and when the tank selector switch went TU it just cut all fuel off to the engine. It depends on the lift kit. It has something to do with how much of an angle the lift causes the CV joint to be at.

 

[Hill Bill E.]

The easiest indicator if it has been abused or hasn't been taken care of is the condition of the underside.

This!! Granted there are guys who use thier rigs, but take care of them, and have some signs of it underneath.

If there are big dents, bent crossmembers, deep gouges, walk away.

It depends on the lift kit. It has something to do with how much of an angle the lift causes the CV joint to be at.

If you're buying a lifted rig, check it over very, very carefully. There are many that are not done properly, and can be unsafe in more ways than just wearing out the CV joints.

If the lift is a small one (what they refer to as a "BB" or Budget Boost-usually 2"-3") it may not be bad. Stay away rom anything lifted 6+ inches if you want to use it as a daily driver or for long trips.


I'm not saying that a truck lifted 6+ inches can't be safe or comfortable, just that most I've come across are neither.

Ask for maintenece records, wether the person does there own work, or brings it in, most guys keep some sort of log on the oil changes, parts replaced, etc.

And as mentioned, definately engage the 4WD, both HI and LO range.

Make sure to drive in reverse a bit while in 4WD, listen for odd noises. ou'll have some clunks/jerkiness becuase of it being in 4WD, but they shouldn't be really bad.

And if it's a newer rig, spring for a CarFax report, I think they're around $35.

ETA: Grab a copy of consumer reports, and see what problems there were for the year of truck your looking at.

 

[HenryJ]

The 6.0L is worse on mileage. The 5.3L feels a little lacking on power. The 6.0L will be hard pressed to maintain low teens at best. The 5.3 will do low to mid teens on a good day. Both can suffer from intake gasket problems. '04-'05 might have the brittle wiring and throttle control issues. (easily solved) Gaskets run $80 , the wires can be repaired with some heat shrink and solder.
All the 1500 stuff with the auto tranny get the problem prone 4L60E transmission. Treated right they can do ok, but plan on a rebuild at some point. That will run $1700 . Smell the fluid and examine the color. Black and burned means it will need help soon. Slipping or stutter shifting is a bad sign.
The open differentials had issues with poorly tempered axle gears. Slack when reversing can be an indicator. Those with the G80 have been less problematic as long as someone serviced it properly and used the correct fluid. $800 for a decent axle assembly, or rebuild with new parts and upgrade.
Watch for stuck caliper slide pins on the brakes. uneven pad wear or heating. Plan on $500 or so to go through and replace those if needed.
Ball joint failures are common. Watch for tire wear to indicate that. $100 each.
The fuel pump, starter and the low amp stock alternators all seem to need help around the 120k mile mark. Plan for them to be rebuilt and replaced as needed. The fuel pump assy needs to be replaced as a module, expect to invest $300 in that, $125 in a starter, and $220 to upgrade the alternator to a DR44G if it doesn't have one.

Keep in mind that those price estimates are just for parts. Installation is above that.

If you have a good local mechanic, have them look it over for you. They know what to look for and can give you some good advice.

 

[OTR]

I would look at a Tundra if I was you reading these remarks.

 

[HenryJ]

Don't let me scare you off. I have a dozen in the fleet and own an Avalanche. Every vehicle has its problems. Some worse than others.
Fore warned and eyes open.
Domestics insurance costs are cheaper. GM parts are less expensive than most since they interchange readily and are mass produced.
I have great confidence that the GM 1500 platform can be a very good vehicle. ( :fingers crossed: )

 

[4x4dreamin]

I have a 99 silverado and it runs like a champ, 162,000 city miles on it and no major problems, minus the clear coat pealing off. Other than that and the fact its a 2wd its a great truck! And I'm stickin with GM paltform trucks, always loved em and always will!

 

[4x4dreamin]

Also something to keep in mind is that I do live in orange county, a lot of the 4x4 trucks here that are lifted are built for show rather than to actually use them for their inteded purpose! Seems a bit ridiculous to me. Now even though these trucks may be built for looks rather than performance, a lot of the lifted ones do have lift kits from quality brands or so I've heard they are quality. I guess I'm just trying to say that most of them will not be bashed up, or ruined. And what would I look for to tell if the lift kit is done properly?

 

[Rot Box]

GM did a pretty good job of placement when it comes to the 5.3 and 6.0. Typically the 6.0 came in the heavy duty trucks and the 5.3 came in the lighter models and I would make your purchase accordingly based on your needs.

While I personally have not owned either I have been around them a bit throughout the years. I have seen some 6.0's that couldn't get out of their own way with lots of random problems and some that pulled a lot of weight (within factory tow ratings) reliably for many miles on end and received decent fuel mileage while doing so--same goes for the 5.3. Both motors seem to be very hit or miss from my experience. The 5.3 will get better mileage for the most part, but the 6.0 will work harder more reliably and for some people (including myself) that is a payoff--again it just depends on your needs.

As far as 4wd wear I agree with looking closely at the undercarriage, tire wear/wheel alignment. I feel the 3/4-1tons will handle lifts and larger tires better (larger/more durable suspension components)than 1/2 tons but that said I would look VERY closely at anything that has 3 times or larger than stock tire size. I prefer heavy 3/4-1tons because of all the upgraded, cooling, transmission, axle combo's and you usually get the best of everything available, but that isn't always practical for some... I don't think the Z71 package is a deal breaker by any means and it all boils down to price. Shocks and skid plates can be added on at any time but thats coming from a guy that prefers fleet models for their simplicity...

Best of luck.

Andrew

 

[Storz]

Buy a 100% bone stock truck!

 

[chasespeed]

Hmmm, what to look for in a 4x4?? A money printer built in... because, it'll cost you money, mostly by choice....

Anyway, also, look closely at the rims... cracks, gouges, hard scrapes, can also be indicators of potential issues in axles, joints, and diffs...

Chase

 

[TurboChris]

99% of the trucks in OC have never been off a dirt road. Stay away from the "Bros" trucks as they are much more likely to have been ran fast in the desert or jumped in the sand. Buy from someone older, ORIGINAL owner if possible..it makes a difference. It's not hard to find a quality, non abused, lifted truck. But DON'T limit your search to OC. Check out Riverside as well. Riversides is more rural, so more trucks.....more trucks means lower average price. As far as lifts...it should be easy to find out how installed it. Its not rocket science so as long as it wasn't done by the owner...you should be fine.

Also something to keep in mind is that I do live in orange county, a lot of the 4x4 trucks here that are lifted are built for show rather than to actually use them for their inteded purpose! Seems a bit ridiculous to me. Now even though these trucks may be built for looks rather than performance, a lot of the lifted ones do have lift kits from quality brands or so I've heard they are quality. I guess I'm just trying to say that most of them will not be bashed up, or ruined. And what would I look for to tell if the lift kit is done properly?

 

[Rot Box]

Also check the transmission dip stick and try to get some history on how often the fluid was changed. If you pull the stick and the ATF looks burnt it could be a sign of a neglected transmission.

Anytime I buy a vehicle with an auto one of the first things I do is get the trans fluid pumped out and replaced with new because you never know what it might have suffered through. I don't care for the chemical/additive flushes that many shops recommend so I make it a point to them that I don't want it.

 

[twisted]

i have had several of these trucks, i currently have a 05 2500hd with a 6.0 lifted 6" with 35's.
gas mileage sucks on this, 10mpg on highway about 9 in town.
the 5.3 is much better at about 18mpg highway.

the speedo's are very problem prone. and about $375 for parts and another $80-$150 labor for programing it depending on your shops labor rate. must be a GM dealer though.

engines run for ever. 4l60e not a bad trans but they go out in the area of 175k

if your looking at a lifted truck check ball joints. when these are lifted they tend to be VERY hard on ball joints.

transfer cases have very little issues except the electronic shift motor.