F250 4x4 engagement clarification

SFROMAN

Adventurer
I own a 2007 F250 4x4 and would like some clarification on something. When I engage 4x4 on my truck I press the botton on the dash. I have been stuck in
2wd and pressed the button and gotten right out of anything. That means that when I press the button the the transfer case is engaging the front diff?
If that is the case then what is the point of having manual hubs?

The reason I ask is becauase a few weeks ago I saw another f250 launch into a long mud pit and eventualy got stuck. When he started spinning his tires only the rear were spinning. A guy standing next to me said "he must have not locked his hubs".
So What is the point of having an electric button feature to engage 4wd from inside the cab if you still have to get out and turn the manual hubs?
Also, If the hubs do need to be turned to engage, how the hell have I been getting out of some deep stuff by only pressing the 4x4 button and not turning the hubs?

I hope I was able to explain my question well enough. Maybe its as clear as mud? HAHA
 

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
Push button 4x4 systems have their place, though I don't prefer them. Manual systems have less electric parts to fail and often work better for longer.

For decades it has been suggested that the well traveled and forward thinking should lock their hubs well before reaching an obstacle and possibly needing 4WD. In addition, locking the front hubs/axles gets everything turning, lubricated, and warmed-up before being put under a load.

When I start driving on a dirt road I lock my manual hubs so I can engage 4WD when I wish. I often will use 4WD not because I need it, but because I want it to reduce shock-load and slippage from the rear axle on washboard roads, and/or reduce the wear on the roadway.

Leaving my home heading west for the infamous Donner Pass when it's snowing and 4WD is likely to be needed, I lock my hubs before leaving my driveway. When/if 4WD is needed I pull my manual transfer-case lever and engage 4WD. When no longer needed, the T-case is shifted back into 2WD. I'm never in a hurry to stop and unlock the hubs at the side of the road in snowy, possibly dangerous conditions, the hubs can be unlocked the next time I stop.

Many vehicles don't even have 'locking hubs' these days, the front axles are always turning, the current Jeep JK is one example.
 

McZippie

Walmart Adventure Camper
I own a 2007 F250 4x4 and would like some clarification on something. When I engage 4x4 on my truck I press the botton on the dash. I have been stuck in
2wd and pressed the button and gotten right out of anything. That means that when I press the button the the transfer case is engaging the front diff?
If that is the case then what is the point of having manual hubs?

The reason I ask is becauase a few weeks ago I saw another f250 launch into a long mud pit and eventualy got stuck. When he started spinning his tires only the rear were spinning. A guy standing next to me said "he must have not locked his hubs".
So What is the point of having an electric button feature to engage 4wd from inside the cab if you still have to get out and turn the manual hubs?
Also, If the hubs do need to be turned to engage, how the hell have I been getting out of some deep stuff by only pressing the 4x4 button and not turning the hubs?

I hope I was able to explain my question well enough. Maybe its as clear as mud? HAHA

Ford has two types of front hubs:
1. Manual Lockers
2. Auto Lockers with a Manual option.

You have #2.
Mud-Pit stuckie probably has #1

Auto lockers have the manual option in case the auto locker don't engage properly.

As is the case in my Truck. When I need 4wd, turn the dash switch to engage the transfer case and because my auto lockers don't work anymore, I must switch the hubs from auto to lock.

It's just a question of time before your auto lockers will give you problems, so it's important to keep the hub selector working freely by turn it back and forth once a month or so.
 

chasespeed

Explorer

Not really true. My former Super Duty HAD the manual/auto hubs. The auto function didnt work, and I eventually found out a broken vacuum line to one of the hubs, was the culprit. I never used the auto side anyway... but, if the wife had to drive it on the beach for any reason, I wanted her to be able to do so without thinking......

So... keep an eye on those...
 
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Regcabguy

Oil eater.
My neighbor owned a 1999 F-250 Superduty with electric dash activated 4wd. His first trip to the Imperial Dunes was a bit eventful. He hit the switch,button,I'm not that familiar with the Fords. 4wd light came on and he promptly buried the truck. The transfercase never engaged. Relating the account to the Ford techs resulted in a lesson on how to manually engage the transfercase in the event of another failure. He never had another issue. I ordered my truck with a manual transfercase. I just wish Dodge offered manual hubs for those of us who don't trust a switch/servo to take the place of a human being.
 

Hill Bill E.

Oath Keeper
.... I just wish Dodge offered manual hubs for those of us who don't trust a switch/servo to take the place of a human being.

In the '90's, Dodge had 'unit bearing' fronts on thier 3/4T's, with an axle disconnect on the long shaft side.

The CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) was vacuum operated, and prone to failure.

Now days, they are 'live axles', meaning no hubs, manual or auto. (axle shafts and driveshaft always turning when moving, even in 2WD)

Once you engage the T-case, the truck is in 4WD.


To the OP, all trucks (with a HI and LO range) have the T-case shift inside.

Hubs depend on the particular set up.

I do like Redline does, and engage my hubs before I think I'll need them.

In the winter, I lock them in when it starts to snow, and leave them in until spring, using the T-case to shift between 2 and 4WD.

As long as the front end is in proper working order and the driveshaft is balnced, it hurts nothing to drive around with the hubs locked in (in 2WD)

Many new vehicles have the 'uni bearings' in the front, and the front end is turning all the time. (Jeep XJ's and TJ's for example)


If you have the Auto/Manual style, keep them in good shape, and make sure they are working properly before heading out on an exursion.

HB
 

Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
Hill, Bill E.;784797]In the '90's, Dodge had 'unit bearing' fronts on thier 3/4T's, with an axle disconnect on the long shaft side.

The CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) was vacuum operated, and prone to failure.

Now days, they are 'live axles', meaning no hubs, manual or auto. (axle shafts and driveshaft always turning when moving, even in 2WD)

Once you engage the T-case, the truck is in 4WD.



I had some of these. 1989 Dodge 1/2 ton, didn't care for it then but it worked most of the time... Then again on a '95 3/4 Ton Cummins. Between I had a much better, '93 W350 w/ manual hubs and New Process 205 T-case.



To the OP, all trucks (with a HI and LO range) have the T-case shift inside.

Hubs depend on the particular set up.

I do like Redline does, and engage my hubs before I think I'll need them.

In the winter, I lock them in when it starts to snow, and leave them in until spring, using the T-case to shift between 2 and 4WD.

As long as the front end is in proper working order and the driveshaft is balnced, it hurts nothing to drive around with the hubs locked in (in 2WD)


YES! I sometimes do this too, more now that the old F350 is not a daily driver, and if needed/wanted in the winter it's often for the 4WD.


Many new vehicles have the 'uni bearings' in the front, and the front end is turning all the time. (Jeep XJ's and TJ's for example)


My '05 Rubicon and '06 4Runner both use this set up (4Runner is full-time 4WD too) and I much prefer this to any type of 'auto' hub or axle disconnect system. I'm still deciding if I prefer a constantly turning front axles to manual hubs but they are at least in second place. There is certainly something to be said for the lack of complexity with something that needs to be engaged or can be broken off on a trail (manual/external hubs).

I guess the it depends on how much dry highway the truck sees where manual/unlocked hubs make the most sense. I also prefer manual hubs (not auto feature) because I can easily (and carefully) use 2WD low-range (hubs unlocked) for the lower gears when moving (backing) trailers at low speeds to save the trans or clutch.
 

chasespeed

Explorer
My '05 Rubicon and '06 4Runner both use this set up (4Runner is full-time 4WD too) and I much prefer this to any type of 'auto' hub or axle disconnect system. I'm still deciding if I prefer a constantly turning front axles to manual hubs but they are at least in second place. There is certainly something to be said for the lack of complexity with something that needs to be engaged or can be broken off on a trail (manual/external hubs).

I guess the it depends on how much dry highway the truck sees where manual/unlocked hubs make the most sense. I also prefer manual hubs (not auto feature) because I can easily (and carefully) use 2WD low-range (hubs unlocked) for the lower gears when moving (backing) trailers at low speeds to save the trans or clutch.

My Ram has the CAD... one of the fist things I did to it was a Posi-Lok. Now, the CAD is cable actuated. Which, as mentioned, allows me to keep the front axle dis-engaged, and be in low range, moving trailers, etc.

Just another option.... and cheaper than the Dynatrack Spin Tech kits, etc...

Chase
 

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