M101a1

Newtac11

Observer
I have found a M101A1,(not bought yet) and was wondering if anyone has tried converting/upgrading one for EXPO. Would it be too large to even consider as a respectable trail trailer?

The only real post i have found so far is this on IH8MUD http://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/238699-m101-a1-trailer.html

I figure if it is too heavy, I could take the box off the frame and do some size tweaking. (read that...have a fabricator do it...I'm awful with a blow torch/ welder)

Soooooo...would it be worth investing a couple hundred bucks?
 

MIhunter

New member
It is slim picken's on trying to find a build on one of these. I have been searching for the same info, but have come up empty handed. I also own a M101A1, but am not doing a full blown expo rig. I have searched around a bit and "aquired" some idea's from other M416 builds. I just plane to do it on a larger scale. I am working a axle, wheel and tire swap on mine as we speak.
 

Newtac11

Observer
Thats what I was afraid of. These things have been out since 68...really wasn't thinking that a few of us would be pioneers in the M101 mods...Please post pics when you get a chance, I'de like to see what you've done.

Anyone else have some ideas or post mod pics?
 

teotwaki

Excelsior!
The M101A1 is supposed to be 1300+ pounds. The M416 class of trailer is maybe 800 pounds and more suited to offroading on jeep trails. Some folks swap out the M101A1's axle to something less burly plus add in electric brakes.
 

nat

Adventurer
I have a M101A2 and love the trailer. It tows very nicely behind my FJ55.

They are heavier, but they have much more usable room, which is great for those of us that have wives who are obsessed with motorcycles and bicycles :bike_rider:

There is another thread:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53738

Unfortunately and fortunately, we are pioneers in making the 3/4 ton trailers expedition worthy.


My goals:

Make the trailer into a popup campershell type OR make a rack and attach a RTT to it.

Add batteries, water, extra gas tank, etc.
 

MIhunter

New member
I say do a one off build and steal your ideas from other builds. People complain that they are too heavy. They are the ones that own POS jeeps that won't pull a 4in tree stump. In all seriousness, the 416 is just to damn small. They fill up quick and don't leave you with much room. The M101A1/A2/A3 series are more options and a tail gate
 
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Skookumchuck

Observer
I am looking to get a M101 or a Sankey to pull behind the Rover. I want to decki it out to be my mobile kitchen and carry all the supplies and extra gear. The back of the rover is where we plan to sleep.
 

JPK

Explorer
The data plate pictured looks like it is from an M101A2, which weighs about 120lbs more than an A1. The A2 and A3 have the surge breaks and also have eight lug hubs. The A3 or converted A2's have the wider(?) drop axles to accomodate the Humvee wheels/track/height.

Thanks for the photos Teotwaki, good to see someone else has done something similar to what I want to do.

I plan on outfitting an A2 this coming spring for camping/fishing/hunting. I'm looking at a bed slide, hard top and rack to accomodate a RTT. I've worked out a way to put fuel (for my Jeep) and water tanks under the trailer too. I think that for carrying the spare and one or two propane tanks for cooking, a diesel can or two for heating a pair of ~50"l x 14"w x 18"h "baskets" would work great; one bolted with backing plates to the front and one fitted to a swing away spindle to clear the tailgate.

As far as hard tops, a reasonably wide selection of pick up caps will fit, especially the aluminum versions. Also, Renegade ladder racks will bolt on, with or without a hard top.

Going "off the shelf" will keep costs down I think.

JPK
 

Newtac11

Observer
I think the A2 or A3 would be better with the break assist. I was also thinking of chopping the bed from 8'x6' (I believe those were the dimensions) to about 6.5'x4.5' would still give me a large bed, but would also allow a hump-less box interior (getting the wheel wells out) Also, the fuel mounted to the outside would not protrude. A 20GL water tank would fit easier on the front of the trailer.

I will be tugging it with a Tacoma. Trying to figure a way to make it a bit lighter/nimble on the trail. Although I think swapping out the axle would lighten the trailer base weight, I think it would raise the center of gravity to much for my liking, and I wouldn't want to loose the break assist. Dunno, what do you think?
 

MIhunter

New member
Don't rely on the surge brakes of the M101A2's and A3's. They suck on snow and ice and are fricken dangerous. Trust me, if you want brakes on these trailers, do the axle swap and get electric brakes. I spent quite a few years hauling them around. I have run my M101A1 with no brakes for years. I have overloaded them and never had an issue with a full size truck.
 

afesler

New member
Have been thinking about this too...

New to the forum, but have been thinking about this a lot -- have a family of four and we like to camp beyond the pavement and are busting out of our 91 Range Rover.

But I think I'd keep the frame and axles, etc... and remove the bed, which is ridiculously over-built for the amount of stuff any of us would ask the trailer to carry. From what I can tell, the bed alone is 600 or 700 lbs, and unbolts from the chassis, so was thinking about getting rid of the bed, and using just the frame, so you have a stout chassis frame with brakes and pintle hitch to start with. (The m716, the flat-bed version, is 740 lbs in A2 form, and still has that heavy flat bed mounted on the frame, so I think the frame alone must be 100-150lbs less than the 716.) That would make just the frame with axles, brakes and wheels around 650 lbs.- heavy, but not totally over the top. It would also be a little narrower, as the bed is wider than the wheels rin-to rim. Supposedly the wheels are just under 6' outside-to-outside, about the same width as my classic Rover, though the track is probably actually a little wider.

Then anyone with some woodworking or welding skills can build whatever you want on the frame -- from an offroad teardrop to a Campa or Conqueror-style trailer, all for about the same weight as the original cargo box. The total trailer could be 1300-1500 lbs in the end, which is too much for technical trails, maybe, but not bad for rough-roading.

As money came in, I thought about swapping axle and springs, but to start, might just remove a couple of leaves to soften the springs up a bit. I like the strength and reliability of the mil-spec axle and leaf shackles.

But to start with that frame, axle and chassis for $400, it's tough to beat. To have that built custom would cost 5x that. Even if you could weld your own frame, the axle, springs, wheels, tires, hitch, brakes, etc... would cost a lot more.

Thoughts?
 

677 Sahara

New member
I have been using an M101 for about 12+ years. They are great for behind a full sized rig. I used a chevy K2500. Mine was a generator trailer so it come with a 20 gal tank mounted over the axle, cleaned it up and installed a 12v pump to transfer fuel. Under the back I mounted a 80lb Lp vechical tank and piped LP to the four corners. It has a 18 gal water tank under the front. Used 50 cal large ammo boxes for cabinets under the sides. With the bows a 12' x 16' tarp covers the bed for shelter. Made fold down tables on each side out of expanded metal. Kitchen sets up on either side. I use two hydraulic jack in the rear corners and the front jack to level it up. Basically it will go more places than the tow vechical can. Now I have down sized to an 05 TJ and a M416, time to start over.
 

dieselcruiserhead

16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
I had a M116A2 that I loved but it was admittedly big. The biggest thing is its fairly wide (about that of a full size pickup) and I think it's good for a full size pickup like a Ford Superduty or Cummins 3/4+ bare min. Otherwise, too big and too heavy. I mostly used it as my "pickup truck" which was nice once in a while.

thanks,
a
 

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