UJOR Build Thread

[mk216v]

Wow, what a trip! And he's a great photographer too! I guarantee he w/n have been able to get those wildlife shots if he had kids, grandkids, boyscouts (or maybe even wife) with him! Too noisy. Dont ask me how I know.:ylsmoke:

Yeah, he's very talented. Loads of inspiration right there.
Very difficult I'm sure. Impossible? Probably not.

 

[Abitibi]

Hey Chris

Need your help to decide. A good friend needs/wants to buy my fr & rr axles I built for my conversion. He'd pay what I already have in.

The front F350 '02 Dana 60, 4:10 gears and Eaton electric locker.
Rear F350 SRW '02 Sterling 10.5 with Detroit Locker.

I'd only consider if it'd be worth for me to upgrade to newer axles ('05) and 4:56 with same or better suited lockers. It's for my Ambo so I guess newer style would give me wider stance and larger brakes?

What you think?

Cheers
David

 

[ujoint]

Hey Chris

Need your help to decide. A good friend needs/wants to buy my fr & rr axles I built for my conversion. He'd pay what I already have in.

The front F350 '02 Dana 60, 4:10 gears and Eaton electric locker.
Rear F350 SRW '02 Sterling 10.5 with Detroit Locker.

I'd only consider if it'd be worth for me to upgrade to newer axles ('05) and 4:56 with same or better suited lockers. It's for my Ambo so I guess newer style would give me wider stance and larger brakes?

What you think?

Cheers
David

It will all depend on what suspension you plan to run. If you use my system then you'll have to keep those. If you go with the 05/up then you'll have to make everything for the 4x4 swap.

 

[Abitibi]

That was easy and my buddy is out of luck!

So how do newer vans get your conversion? Do you trade their axles for 99-04?

 

[ujoint]

We use the 99-04 on all of our kits! Most don't swap the rear so we leave it stock.

 

[ujoint]

Great week so far! Finishing up the 7.3 cargo build, adding a rear winch to an Aluminess bumper, put a Stage 2 Dana 60 together yesterday and our new Iron Worker arrived today for the fab shop! Super excited to have this ultra versatile machine here.

 

[mikracer]

Doing some R&D for an E36 kit?

 

[ujoint]

Doing some R&D for an E36 kit?

Ha, no! It will be staying at its current ride height

 

[mk216v]

Tell us more about your new Iron Worker friend.

Ha, no! It will be staying at its current ride height

Haha, he beat me to it! SAS? :sombrero:

 

[ujoint]

Edwards 55 ton, really cool machine. We'll be able to punch, shear and bend up to 10" with it. Moving all of the small part production here so we can lower lead times and have more control. Also free up my supplier to make new things like bumpers, etc.

 

[philos]

My pops is a retired machinist/die-maker. He thinks these are great, several machines in one big chunky box.


Sent via flux capacitor

 

[ujoint]

My pops is a retired machinist/die-maker. He thinks these are great, several machines in one big chunky box.


Sent via flux capacitor

Yep!

 

[ujoint]

VivaLaVida teardown. Going thru the axles, general maintenance. Also going to try a custom remote oil cooler, that should be fun.....

 

[tgreening]

Gotta shoot you some pics later Chris. I'm at the point of cutting the holes for the shackle bushings up front, but something doesn't seem to be quite right between my frame and the jig. The outside part of the hole guide lays flat against the outside of the frame, but the inside part of the guide has a big gap at the top. It doesn't lay flat against the frame at all. It's the same on driver and passenger side. I started on the passenger side and noticed that inside gap, so moved the whole thing over to the drivers side, and still an inside gap at the top. I'd say about 3/4" at the top. It's like the hole jig is too narrow for the frame and it's being spread open, leaving a gap at the top. I figured I better stop before cutting any holes and check with you.


Front hanger on the drivers side....

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Outside rear on the drivers side...

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Inside rear over view...

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Close up rear...

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Any thoughts??

 

[ujoint]

Are you using a plasma? If so that is fine, you're just using the jig as a guide. Once the main cut has been made you'll have to trim it a bit and just make sure the sleeves are level before you weld them in. We use a small magnetic level on the outside of the sleeve and tack them.

Sometimes the pass side frame horn will have a slight twist so that may be messing with you too.