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Thread: In search of the "perfect" camper frame

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    New Orleans
    Posts
    156
    Nice! Looking forward to seeing how this turns out!

    Tempcoat is another insulation product you might want to take a look at. I haven't played with it yet, but one of their distributors is in the next building from my office. From what he's told me its a silica based product added to paint. Used on the interior of a home it looks just like house paint and can be painted over if you want but adds another 5% or so of insulation. A bit more insulation for virtually no weight addition seems like a good idea. Not very expensive either... $60 for 5 gallons, IIRC... I've been toying with the idea of doing the underside of my roof in the attic (after I replace the roof in the next year or two).

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    North Idaho
    Posts
    627
    Thanks. Im glad Im at a point of actually doing something.... something more than collecting parts and drawing fun pictures anyway.

    On with the bed, the plasma cutter came in handy this evening.

    I cut the tops of all the screws off, and removed a good deal of junk from the bed. The rear apron, the under body boxes, and started removing the long runners under the bed.
    This bed looks like it was originally built for a truck with much narrower frame rails than my F250. These will be removed, in favor of some sturdy 2x3 square tubing, at the proper width.
    The pivots will attach to the 2x3 square tubing

    And unless I want to stand upside down, with sparks landing on my head for an hour, I think Ill flip the entire bed over to finish with the bolts






  3. #93
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    North Idaho
    Posts
    627
    Pushing on...

    After all of the old screws were removed, all holes were welded up.



    The bed was then relocated outside to make room for the truck in the shop.
    Still lots of grinding to do on the bed, but that will wait until the pivot frame is fabricated.



    Truck back in the shop, rear tire and spare removed, more cleaning....
    It looks like I have a couple generations of electrical "hacks" to wort out with the rear wiring.
    Everything was working, but I think I have numerous duplicates, and nothing was done with heat shrink or friction tape.



    Next up is to work out the rear pivot...




  4. #94
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    1,441
    Quote Originally Posted by IdaSHO View Post
    Pushing on...



    Nice old 80's Subi in the back there. That thing looks like it is in great condition.

    Good luck with the truck. I will be watching!
    "Do you know what a soldier is, young man? He's the chap who makes it possible for civilized folk to despise war." -Allan Massie

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    North Idaho
    Posts
    627
    Thanks! Yes, the little GL is REALLY clean.... and lifted a bit too.


  6. #96
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    1,441
    Wow, it sure does look nice!

    I have always liked the idea of a lifted subi. I recall seeing one that had a three inch lift and snorkel. It was for sale here a year or three ago.

    Great looking car, congrats on keeping it so nice.
    "Do you know what a soldier is, young man? He's the chap who makes it possible for civilized folk to despise war." -Allan Massie

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    North Idaho
    Posts
    627
    Was able to get a good deal of fabrication done today. The front mount is done, just waiting on some custom U-bolts.

    The entire thing will be insulated from the frame by hardwood





    Im no pro, but I can hold my own. And not too bad considering ALL of the steel used for the front mount was salvaged (FREE)



    The side rails were also fabricated. 1x3 square tube, sandwiched with fish plates. Then 1-3/4" holes bored to accept the rubber bushings.

    These bushings are actually "axle pivot bushings" used on the front end of this truck. They should do great.

    Bolts for all bushings are 9/16" Grade 8





    Lots more to do...

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    North Idaho
    Posts
    627
    A bit more...






  9. #99
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    UT
    Posts
    1,441
    So are you going to go with a single pivot mount at the rear, or will you use springs to hold the rest of the bed on?
    "Do you know what a soldier is, young man? He's the chap who makes it possible for civilized folk to despise war." -Allan Massie

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    North Idaho
    Posts
    627
    Rear pivot, and rubber snubbers are in the plans right now.

    Here are some more pics...

    After lots of cutting, the old bed was fitted over the new subframe



    It was a royal PITA to cut all of these true....



    A look at the rear pivot mocked up. This will be reworked considerably.



    One of my not-so-professional, but good enough welds.



    And what it looks like so far... It is now sitting 2 inches lower than before


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