Travel Trailer Conversion?

Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
Hi, new to this forum and I have been wondering about trailers. I have seen the bigger vehicle conversions, box campers, and I have not seen any larger trailers here. Why is that? Can't you convert a larger travel trailer, say 22/24 footer? Modify the wheel wells, suspension, larger wheels and tires, modify the departure angle, beef it up so to speak to drag it further off road? I have a utility trailer I might do some work to and pull that for some trips, but for a longer trip it would be nice to have more room...at least a 16 footer or so. Any ideas, suggestions or threads on this topic?
 
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Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
ABSOLUTELY!!!! Now that's what I'm talk'n bout! Thanks for the movie!

OK, what kind of trailer was that? And, since it's down under, it's probably irrelevant. The question I guess would be how do you modify a rid to make it like that? I'm not going into stuff like that, not so deep (lol) but it should be capable of following....

Looks like the different springs, shocks(?), do you raise the body? Most travel trailers seem to have about the same bones beneath them and ground clearence seems to be low, so something has to be done.

I'd like to take a longer trip and I got my fill of tents in the Army! Speaking of the Army, I had electronic equipment in a 5 ton M292 Van, it had expandable sides and due to the goodies inside, I had heat and A/C! Didn't take me long to figure out to set up my camp in my office! Wish I had that thing now...

So, don't get that so I'll go with a trailer if this is possible???
 

Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
Thanks! That was something too!

Well, guess it's not a new idea, lol! They have been pulling these things all over for a long time, that must have been the mid-50s. The guy at the beginning has my two arm chairs too! lol :ylsmoke:

What do you suggest to make them a little easier to pull through the muck and not bottom out?
 

MatthewThompson

Adventurer
Thanks! That was something too!

Well, guess it's not a new idea, lol! They have been pulling these things all over for a long time, that must have been the mid-50s. The guy at the beginning has my two arm chairs too! lol :ylsmoke:

What do you suggest to make them a little easier to pull through the muck and not bottom out?

Belly pans?
 

Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
Belly pan, yep, that might save a floor! Why wouldn't the axel just get knocked out of line if it hits something? Aren't they just bolted to the springs? Would a pan be angled down in front of the axel to lift the trailer before hitting the axel, allowing room for the axel to travel? Is that how they do it?
 

Jeep

Supporting Sponsor: Overland Explorer Expedition V
You would have to start out with something at least as good as an Airstream. The rest on this continent are just junk, I've wrecked 2 $26 000 trailers just on rough gravel roads.
 

chasingdreams

Adventurer
You would have to start out with something at least as good as an Airstream. The rest on this continent are just junk, I've wrecked 2 $26 000 trailers just on rough gravel roads.

I agree with you on the junk part...... Pick a travel trailer and look under it,.... "chipboard floor"... just turns my stomach to think about how much they charge and they can't even start with a good foundation.
 

Chuckles!

Observer
I'd like to take a longer trip and I got my fill of tents in the Army! Speaking of the Army, I had electronic equipment in a 5 ton M292 Van, it had expandable sides and due to the goodies inside, I had heat and A/C! Didn't take me long to figure out to set up my camp in my office! Wish I had that thing now...


27588700.jpg


These GovLiq links sometimes work.

If not, search for "Boyer"

Enjoy!
 

TBRV

New member
There are many great RV manufactuerers. Unfortunatly much of the RV industry is too price driven and cut corners in places you don't see.

To start taking trailers into more extreme roads conditions requires a number of items.

First you need to choose a product that has a decent frame with plenty of outriggers and the floor structure bolted (not tech screws) to the frame. The best floor structures are plywood screwed and glued to a aluminum or wood floor structure. I have seen a lot of manufacturers try osb or flimsy laminated floors that don't hold up.

Second you need ground clearance. Best to choose a unit on straight axles rather than the 4" or 6" drop axles that are comonly used. Larger tires will also help. Trailer floorplan also has a lot to do with clearance. The holding tanks are always under the washroom so units with rear bathrooms have poor clearance. Mid or front bath floorplans have great clearance.

Third You want an exterior that will hold up to some abuse. Filon (fiberglass) exterior seems the most cost effective. Aluminum exteriors like Airstream look great but one tree branch will a leave a lasting impression.

There are RV Manufacturers that build units intended to go off road but they don't sell that well. If demand for this equipment was higher they would build more.

The other factor is consumer expectation. Even the best constructed units have limitations.
 

bunduguy

Supporting Sponsor
As mentioned above, the issue in starting with a travel trailer is that most of them are junk! The floors are thin particle board, the cabinets the same, and everything is tacked and glued together. All that the extra suspension will do is let you get further into the forest before it collapses. It is all still going to rattle itself to death in short time, because what is on top of the chassis has not been changed.

One of the issues we have with our truly off-road camper trailers, is trying to explain to people what exactly the difference is between our and what is commonly available.
 

Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
So a belly pan around the frame should seal up that chip board floor, blow foam insulation between the pan and the floor. Move water lines inside if they are not. Belly pan couldn't enclose the black water tank?

As for the twisting, would an exterior cage beef it up? Going from the frame up the sides to a roof rack and attach the exterior walls to the exterior frame?

I guess that would mean a 16 to 18 foot cabin as anything longer would be too heavy for my F-150...probably, especially in the muck (but I did pull a 24 cuddy cabin boat).

That van would be something! I used an old '60s Army 5 ton, looked like the duce and a half, in the 70s. Bet they have changed since then...lol. While it would be great for the venture I have no place to put such a monster!
 

Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
Does anyone know if a torsion bar type suspension would be better than a solid axel? These are basically a flat steel plate that is attached to a hub and wheel that allows the wheel to go up or down with the plate being bolted to the frame, there is no axel running under the trailer.
 

njtaco

Explorer
Does anyone know if a torsion bar type suspension would be better than a solid axel? These are basically a flat steel plate that is attached to a hub and wheel that allows the wheel to go up or down with the plate being bolted to the frame, there is no axel running under the trailer.

Look through HERE on the Adventure Trailers site...there are a few threads here on ExPo about torsion axles too.
 

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