Tacoma or 4Runner axle/3rd

[AlexJet]

The long story short.
I have 2005 4Runner with 4:56 and RD132 rear.
Locker is leaking oil and so far nothing helps. Sounds like need rebuild. I may look at getting new gears as well, as I don't like the ones I have now.

Question. Is it worth to pull my 3rd out and rebuild the locker and swap new gears or get custom build 3rd and swap 3rd, then see if I can get something for mine or leave it as spare.

Another option which came to me this afternoon.
I found used '05 Tacoma axle at the local shop. The owner upgraded to Currie Dana60. I know that Tacoma has 8.4" diff which is bigger that 4Runner has and should be much stronger. Tacoma axle comes with drum brakes. I was wondering if I can swap my disc brackets from 4Runner to Tacoma axle? Then I'd need to re-weld all brackets for the links, shocks and coil seats...

Just some ideas thrown on the table. No mater what option I'll go with something has to be done this Spring.

Which one is most worthy?
1 - Rebuild my current setup (4.56 + ARB)
2a - Get new 3rd with 4.56 and ARB and sell the one I have.
2b - Get new 3rd with 4.56 and ARB and use old as spare
3a - Get Tacoma axle and rebuild its 3rd
3b - Get Tacoma axle and 3rd with 4.56 + ARB or other selectable

[zidaro]

I would just have your current third rebuilt and the ARB gone thru just to freshen it up, if it has seen alot of use. The 8" will handle the v6 and 35" fine unless you have a foot made of lead and the brains of a neanderthal.
the cost/benefits of upgrading to the 8.4 are not there unless you REALLY wanted to spend alot of dough with all your bracket work. Might as well upgrade to a Diamond if your going to all that trouble.
I am assuming you will be paying to have this work done? If doing it all yourself, the Taco housing may work out ok $$. I would save the money unless you are having issues breaking gears.

[TangoBlue]

Where is it leaking oil at? At the location where the air line enters? Sometimes that seal can be damaged - it would be a shame to incur such a huge expense for the cost of the replacement of a rubber O-ring.

[AlexJet]

I would just have your current third rebuilt and the ARB gone thru just to freshen it up, if it has seen alot of use. The 8" will handle the v6 and 35" fine unless you have a foot made of lead and the brains of a neanderthal.
the cost/benefits of upgrading to the 8.4 are not there unless you REALLY wanted to spend alot of dough with all your bracket work. Might as well upgrade to a Diamond if your going to all that trouble.
I am assuming you will be paying to have this work done? If doing it all yourself, the Taco housing may work out ok $$. I would save the money unless you are having issues breaking gears.

I'm not heavy on foot. Just exploring possibilities and options of my current situation.
Most of the work I'm doing myself anyway. I just go to friends garage and pay him for use and ask for second pair of hand when needed, so yes there will be some cost associated with that option, but not as big as I would of paid someone to do it.

[AlexJet]

Where is it leaking oil at? At the location where the air line enters? Sometimes that seal can be damaged - it would be a shame to incur such a huge expense for the cost of the replacement of a rubber O-ring.

The locker leaks oil to the air line into the solenoid at compressor. Simple O-ring change didn't fix it, so I assume, I need to rebuild the locker as well as change all bearings to Koyo (have Tomken, as Koyo wasn't available at the time of initial build). Will check gear condition and may be change to a new set.

[zidaro]

I assumed you looked into your problem.

Have you checked your diff breather? Is it working. Pressure buildup in the diff. will cause backflow into your arb line.

Are you saying you checked the o-ring on the outside of your diff housing where the airline connects or the internal one? It is the internal oring that can cause this small leaking. Caused by improper alignment on build of diff. Bad O-rings will take on oil when locker solenoid de-pressurizes. Best way to test is clear oil from lines using air, then drive it for few days without engaging locker. If no oil appears in line, engage and disnegage locker several times and see if oil is drawn into the line when solenoid depressurizes.

ARB sells a solenoid breather kit for this problem, but is not the solution- just cures the symptoms.

I would not waste $ on anything before finding out why your diff. is leaking.

[TangoBlue]

The locker leaks oil to the air line into the solenoid at compressor. Simple O-ring change didn't fix it.

Good, you ruled that out.

I assumed you looked into your problem.

Have you checked your diff breather? Is it working. Pressure buildup in the diff. will cause backflow into your arb line.

Are you saying you checked the o-ring on the outside of your diff housing where the airline connects or the internal one? It is the internal oring that can cause this small leaking. Caused by improper alignment on build of diff. Bad O-rings will take on oil when locker solenoid de-pressurizes. Best way to test is clear oil from lines using air, then drive it for few days without engaging locker. If no oil appears in line, engage and disnegage locker several times and see if oil is drawn into the line when solenoid depressurizes.

ARB sells a solenoid breather kit for this problem, but is not the solution- just cures the symptoms.

I would not waste $ on anything before finding out why your diff. is leaking.

Agreed.

[AlexJet]

I assumed you looked into your problem.

Have you checked your diff breather? Is it working. Pressure buildup in the diff. will cause backflow into your arb line.

Are you saying you checked the o-ring on the outside of your diff housing where the airline connects or the internal one? It is the internal oring that can cause this small leaking. Caused by improper alignment on build of diff. Bad O-rings will take on oil when locker solenoid de-pressurizes. Best way to test is clear oil from lines using air, then drive it for few days without engaging locker. If no oil appears in line, engage and disnegage locker several times and see if oil is drawn into the line when solenoid depressurizes.

ARB sells a solenoid breather kit for this problem, but is not the solution- just cures the symptoms.

I would not waste $ on anything before finding out why your diff. is leaking.

I worked out possible causes.
Changed breather, clean lines, changed O-ring on the locker, install ARB purge kit. Nothing helped, still have oil in the air line.
Its no mater of using or not using locker, oil gets to air line under normal driving. Purge-kit just moved oil-out point from solenoid to drain line.
Second issue which goes out of the first is that engaging the locker takes up to 5 minutes and disengaging as well another 5 (air has to push all oil out to the diff again).

[zidaro]

I worked out possible causes.
Changed breather, clean lines, changed O-ring on the locker, install ARB purge kit. Nothing helped, still have oil in the air line.
Its no mater of using or not using locker, oil gets to air line under normal driving. Purge-kit just moved oil-out point from solenoid to drain line.
Second issue which goes out of the first is that engaging the locker takes up to 5 minutes and disengaging as well another 5 (air has to push all oil out to the diff again).

I would have the third rebuilt, as well as a thorough go thru on the ARB, have it done by a reputable co. that will back their work.
ARB's are not rocket science but must be built correctly to maintain a seal, yours sounds like it leaks like a siv. Sorry youve had such tough experience with it.

[AlexJet]

Have anyone heard of East Coast Gear Supply?
They are closer to me and I'm thinking asking them to build me 3rd member.