My trailer electrical system

[Jnich77]

Sooo I got bored after class today and built the electrical system for my trailer. I still need to add a battery, but I am going to wait until I need it to add one. I used generic parts from pep-boys and harbor freight, not like I am going to bash it off road or go through south america.. so I figured I could pass on the extra rugged parts that some people like to use. I ran a 10Ga wire from the truck battery to the bumper, and hooked it to the trailer to charge everything while I drive.


I got a 10Ga connector off Amazon for 9.00 shipped:





Added 4 switches and a fuse box. Also tossed in a 12V socket since it was rolling around in the tool box:






Got a very inexpensive battery monitor:




Screwed down a cheap crate from Big Lots to protect everything, and allow storage of small items.




Had to figure out a way to keep the fridge plugged in.. so I went with the KISS method:

[captblack]

That's a good looking setup, Jason. The money you saved on the less critical stuff will allow you to invest in a good battery. I like the nice, neat installation. I am going to redo mine because my wire runs could be a bit neater (I did one thing at a time and it shows).

In camp with no electricity, my battery runs my fridge and an inverter for my CPAP. I have set up both the truck and the jeep so I can have the fridge run off of them while driving - that way the battery is still fresh when camp is set up. Full battery should give me 2 -3 days, I think. In a primitive setup I still have the generator for charging back up.

Good idea, using marine connectors. I have the West Marine 12v and 120v and have had no moisture problems (well, at least not yet).

Keep the neat ideas coming ...

Bill

[Jnich77]

That's a good looking setup, Jason. The money you saved on the less critical stuff will allow you to invest in a good battery. I like the nice, neat installation. I am going to redo mine because my wire runs could be a bit neater (I did one thing at a time and it shows).

In camp with no electricity, my battery runs my fridge and an inverter for my CPAP. I have set up both the truck and the jeep so I can have the fridge run off of them while driving - that way the battery is still fresh when camp is set up. Full battery should give me 2 -3 days, I think. In a primitive setup I still have the generator for charging back up.

Good idea, using marine connectors. I have the West Marine 12v and 120v and have had no moisture problems (well, at least not yet).

Keep the neat ideas coming ...

Bill

Thanks Bill, I spent like three days looking at it to figure it out.. and two hours wiring it...lol

I still have to install a small battery charger and plug so I can easily hook my generator too it. Next comes reverse lights and the wiring for the 12v pump for the Zodi shower I ordered yesterday. I also still have to get around to making new Kayak racks that don't stick up 2" off the trailer...lol.

[Token]

Been starting to think about wiring on my trailer again lately.. Hadn't though about it much but how much draw would the back battery really need..?? I was expecting to just use the 12v point on the 7 pin connector to keep the battery up and going.. Not sure what the 7 pin aux puts out, but I have popped the 30amp fuse on a compressor with it, so I'm guessing it's good for at least that much..

If a battery were down to it's last 25% and it was put on a charging source, what kind of draw would it be trying to get to recharge..??

[Jnich77]

Been starting to think about wiring on my trailer again lately.. Hadn't though about it much but how much draw would the back battery really need..?? I was expecting to just use the 12v point on the 7 pin connector to keep the battery up and going.. Not sure what the 7 pin aux puts out, but I have popped the 30amp fuse on a compressor with it, so I'm guessing it's good for at least that much..

If a battery were down to it's last 25% and it was put on a charging source, what kind of draw would it be trying to get to recharge..??

The only consistent draw my battery will have is the fridge, I don't remember what the power requirements are for it.. but they are not much.

[captblack]

Fridge usually runs around 2 - 7 AH, depending on the temp you set and how hot it is outside. It makes a difference in shade of if it has a cover. A good deep cycle battery will let you take it down to 20-30% (although 40 is probably better) before recharging.

Be sure to get a smart charger ...

[Utah KJ]

So a 10AWG wire is the main charge wire connected to the vehicle's charging system? That's a fire waiting to happen if so.

I recomend an isolator, 4AWG wire and proper fusing at both the front a rear. A 10AWG wire will burn before a 40A fuse blows. I've been in two car fires that were cause by improper wiring... one while I was on the freeway... it's not fun.

[Jnich77]

So a 10AWG wire is the main charge wire connected to the vehicle's charging system? That's a fire waiting to happen if so.

I recomend an isolator, 4AWG wire and proper fusing at both the front a rear. A 10AWG wire will burn before a 40A fuse blows. I've been in two car fires that were cause by improper wiring... one while I was on the freeway... it's not fun.

Well, I feel that a 10G will do fine... all its running is the fridge, or charging the battery from running the fridge. I though of going thicker, but with such a low amperage draw I am not too worried. Since I will always start out with a fully charged battery, and can use the generator to top it off if need be.. it will really only have to maintain the battery.

[orangeTJ]

Very nice. I first found those marine style connectors about 13 years or so when I was working for a power inverter manufacturer. They are very nice - pretty much the best ones out there.