IHDiesel73L's WVO filtration system

IHDiesel73L

Adventurer
As promised, here is my WVO filtration system. There are many ways to skin this cat and this is just one-look it over, get some ideas, make some improvements (but do me a favor and let me know so I can copy them :D), etc... I'll go over the main points first:

Collecting oil - I prefer to collect my oil in the containers that it's sold in. Basically, I ask my sources to drain the oil from the fryer back into the empty container it came in which is typically a 4.5 gallon plastic jug known as a "cubee." They look like this:

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What I like about collecting in the cubees is that I don't have to deal with sucking oil out of a dumpster and they're easy to carry. The main issue with cubees is getting rid of the empties. Luckily my county has a recycling dump where you can take as much recyclable material as you want. So now that you've got oil it needs to be filtered.

Rough filtering - This was always the biggest pain in the rear for me. I filter my oil using a centrifuge (more on that later) and the centrifuge will filter out particles less than 1 micron, but the oil going into it must be filtered to at least 200 micron (about half the size of a grain of sand) to avoid clogging the jets. After straining oil through t-shirts (they clog quickly and don't work well with cold oil), pumping through small whole house water filters (they only work marginally better than the t-shirts), and other ill fated ideas, I settled on a pre-heating barrel (I pour dirty oil into it, bits and all, and heat it using electric hot water heater elements), a low pressure medium volume pump, and a heated industrial filter cartridge housing. The idea here is to always be filtering warm oil. This eliminates the problem of trying pump very thick cold oil through a filter which will usually collapse it, causing crud to get past the filter to places where you don't want it. Here are some pictures of the pre-heating barrel and filter housing:

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Here are the heaters which are suspended in the barrel:

Centrifuge003.jpg


The oil is pumped via the blue pump on the left into the filter at about 10 GPM. You'll see later that I wrapped the filter housing with a pipe heating cable (the kind you use to guard against pipes freezing)-this combats a problem I was having filtering in an unheated garage. I would pump warm oil through the filter and then a week later find that the filter was plugged with cold partially hydrogenated oil and fats. With the heat cable I can liquefy the cold oil prior to filtering. Then its into the filtration barrel:

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The filtration barrel consists of the barrel, the centrifuge, a heater to bring the oil up to 160 degrees, and a pump to operate it all. Here's a better view of the heater pipe here:

Centrifuge009.jpg


This is a direct copy of SunWizard's famous system which can be found over at the Infopop forums here:

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/2001011761

Basically the idea is that you pump oil into the pipe which has hot water heater elements screwed into both ends via tees. When the oil comes out of the other end it's much hotter than before and then goes into the centrifuge. The oil recirculates, heats up, and gets cleaner with each pass through the centrifuge. The main components of my system are a Dieselcraft 0C-20 centrifuge, a Haldex hydraulic pump to drive it, a 1/2 HP electric motor to drive that, and some braided stainless steel lines to guard against blowouts.

Here's an overview of the whole thing:

Centrifuge_II001.jpg


The final component is the fill pump. I used to use the centrifuge pump as the fill pump via a manifold, but that got old really fast-the centrifuge pump is high pressure low volume-1 GPM to be exact, so a 60 gallon tank took an hour to fill. Therefore I upgraded to the 10 GPM pump in the picture along with a filler nozzle I picked up at a yardsale. I plumbed a bypass into it so that the nozzle can click off and not overload the pump or burst the hose. I didn't cover everything in this post, so if you have questions, post away...
 

Terrainist

Explorer
Cool. Do you have a photo of the centrifuge?

I asked the cook at a grill I go to, he said they use hydrogenated. The impression I got, he was busy, it was a bar - the impression I got was that he got it in a solid form.

Know anything about hydrogenated oils for fuel? I don't even know what that is, but think I read somewhere not to use them. Know anything?

And thanks for posting up your filtering set up!!!
 

IHDiesel73L

Adventurer
Cool. Do you have a photo of the centrifuge?

I don't really have a closeup of mine-I'll try to take one today. Again, I pretty much copied SunWizard's design. The kit from Dieselcraft consists of a pressure gauge, some tees, and a ball valve. Some folks operate the centrifuge by using the ball valve as a throttle-they close it little by little until the pressure gauge reads 90 psi which the rotor needs to spin up to 8000 rpm. Depending on how much the pump flows, you may still be getting a lot of oil bypassing or just a trickle. The problem with the ball valve is that it requires frequent adjustment. When the oil is 100 degrees and you have the valve closed a certain amount, you might have 90 psi-once it gets to 120 degrees the oil thins out more and the pressure drops so you need to close it a bit more. SunWizard ended up using an adjustable pressure regulating valve from McMaster-Carr (the part number is in his centrifuge thread) that you can dial in to 90 psi so that once you close the valve completely the valve will regulate the pressure.

I asked the cook at a grill I go to, he said they use hydrogenated. The impression I got, he was busy, it was a bar - the impression I got was that he got it in a solid form.

I would guess not-it's probably partially hydrogenated. As long as they are making lots of wings, fries, mozzarella sticks, etc...they need liquid oils. Partially hydrogenated oils (PHO-yet another term you'll see thrown around) can be used as fuel, its just that they are nearly solid (more like jello) at room temperature and will freeze solid below 20 degrees or so. When you look at a container of oil that is partially hydrogenated oil you'll see the dark clear oil sitting on top and the PHO (whitish or beige) on the bottom with a very clear line in between. The dark oil will pour easily at room temp-the PHO will pour very slowly. This layer also tends to have the fats from whatever was fried in the oil too. The first pain with working with oil like this is filtering it-its tough to filter when it doesn't want to come out of the container-then getting it through some kind of filter without totally plugging it can be difficult-that's why I came up with my pre-filter barrel so that I can heat even the nastiest PHO and get it through a 150 micron filter with no problem to get the large particles out and send it on for fine filtering.

As for PHO as fuel it all depends on how much heat your two tank system has. If you are trying to blend WVO with diesel or anything else PHO is a bad choice simply because no matter what you blend it with, at a certain temperature it's going to drop out and settle to the bottom of the tank causing issues from plugged filters to fouled injectors. With a system like the Vegistroke there is more than enough heat throughout the system to keep PHO completely liquefied from the time it leaves the tank until it reaches the injectors. As long as you're going with a good quality two tank system there's no need to fear PHO.

And thanks for posting up your filtering set up!!!

No prob-ask away! One more note about asking for oil. Stick to small places-I like pizza places because while their main business is pizza, they often serve fried foods too, but not at the volume that a bar or fast food joint would (note-the big fast food chains won't deal with you, so don't bother), so they usually don't produce enough oil to interest the large rendering companies, but if you have 3 or 4 in your area, you can usually pick them up once a month and get enough fuel for 4-5 weeks depending on how much you drive. When you go in to ask-buy something, and go when it's slow and the manager/cook isn't running around like a maniac trying to serve customers. Those two things have helped me immensely.
 
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D

Deleted member 12023

Guest
Slick looking set up! I can't tell from the pictures but you should have the bodies of those clearwater pumps grounded. I have the same pump and I get some WILD static coming off of my pump....it jumps from the pipe to your hand at about 6". Mostly in cold weather though.

Where does everyone purchase their centrifuges? I would love to get one but have not found any for a reasonable price.

Also how fast can you heat a barrel of oil with the two heater elements?
 

Darwin

Explorer
l

Where does everyone purchase their centrifuges? I would love to get one but have not found any for a reasonable price.

Also how fast can you heat a barrel of oil with the two heater elements?

WVOdesigns.com is where I got my bowl style centrifuge.

I have a dieselcraft centrifuge I would sell for $350 comes with gear pump already mounted on bottom of food grade 55 gallon drum on a roller cart. It's an OC-20 with pressure relief valve, pressure gauge, and temperature gauge. I dragged it all the way to mexico and back last winter so it's somewhat portable.
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It's not nearly this clean any more since the photo's were taken right after I built it.

I switched to a bowl style centrifuge from wvodesigns and I believe it works much better for my application.

PM if you are interested.
 

lam396

Adventurer
Thanks for the info. Do you think you will leave it as is or do you have some tweaks or changes planned?
 

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