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Thread: Rango.....1942 Willys MB

  1. #691
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwest Colorado
    Posts
    2,584
    Yes, I bought full 180 degree mandrel bends and then cut them to the angles I needed. I made a little cheat sheet paper template to mark cut lines for every 5 degrees of bend. That helped a lot. I purchased the bends from Summit Racing. They where the low cost versions...I think I paid about $20 per $180 degree bend. I think I did my entire exhaust with 3 180 degree bends total and just used the tails on the bends for straight pipe. I was a touch short on straight pipe but ended using some .120 wall, 2.5" tubing for my crush resistant exhaust tip and that gave me enough tubing. I totally lucked out......


  2. #692
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Bakersfield, California
    Posts
    30
    Thanks, what did you make the rubber hangers out of? They don't look like normal exhaust hangers.

  3. #693
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwest Colorado
    Posts
    2,584
    I used these for the isolators. They seem to be in the universal parts section of most auto parts places for less than $5

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=110789_0_0_

    The hanger was just round rod I bent to shape.

    Then I used a pin from the hardware store welded to the frame, a washer or two, and a quick clip pin to hold it all together.

    All in all it worked really well. So the exhaust system is great. I get a little 'off-throttle' pop from the glasspack, but I like the sound overall. Its not too loud.....or too loud for being in a 70 year old open top vehicle with a super aggressive tires.

  4. #694
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwest Colorado
    Posts
    2,584
    Made a friend today.....









    I entered the Willys in the local fathers day car show......

  5. #695
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    currently, Vilseck Germany
    Posts
    1,352

    Default Coolness!

    That's freakin' awesome seeing you parked next to its new friend. Guess yesterday was a good day for MB spotting... I stumbled across this as i was headed to the shop to work on my XJ...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #696
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwest Colorado
    Posts
    2,584
    I'm not very happy with my SM420, custom adapter, and D18. Its a cool one off piece....but I tend to worry about the one off parts in the long run. I have a persistent leak with the adapter also.....

    So if I replace the existing transmission and transfer case what should I replace it with?

    Shorter is better
    Keeping my existing GM bellhousing would be nice
    clearance for a 1310 front output yoke is a must

    SM465, T18, T19, NP435, ???

  7. #697
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    currently, Vilseck Germany
    Posts
    1,352
    Nothing is shorter than the 420 brotha! Is there no way to adapt it differently or use a Dana 20 or 300? I know you'd lose the rear offset but its kinda 6 one way, half dozen the other? The 465 and 435 are both physically a good deal larger transmissions. The T-18/19 maybe a little less so. Without going super right field and losing strength and gearing I don't have much to offer. Even a 'yota or Sami trans/tcase would be difficult/expensive due to the engine needs...

  8. #698
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwest Colorado
    Posts
    2,584
    The SM420 really isn't THAT short once you stack an adapter on it. My custom 1/2" long adapter is a one off and causes more issues than it solves. The SM420 also has the reverse bulge on the passenger side that creates a lot of front driveshaft issues.

    So far a T18 is winning. I loose a little gearing ( 6.32 vs 7.05 1st gear ) but the overall length is only about 2" longer than what I have now. I can use a factory input gear to the D18 ( overdrive and/or TeraLow gearset ) and a regular size 1310 yoke on the front output. I can get the T18 modded to bolt up to my existing bellhousing also.

    I could do a normal SM420 to D18 adapter but that adds 4" to the length. It doesn't really solve my front driveshaft issue all the way either.

    I need to keep the t-case outputs offset I think. No D300 or D20. I would love the front wheel drive capability but it doesn't fix the transmission issues really. I don't mine the D18 transfer case. I just want to be able to run a normal 1310 front yoke and all factory parts in it...no one off custom parts to break.

  9. #699
    I have used the AA 420 to D18 adapter it is listed as 4" long. I fit a 1310 yolk on my front shaft with some grinding to the tranny case. Novak lists there adapter at 4.4" which might allow a 1310, or at least require less grinding than I did. Look carefully at what is included in each kit as i think the Novak includes parts you have to buy separate with the AA kit.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

  10. #700
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Southwest Colorado
    Posts
    2,584
    Thanks for the info. I'm not super attached to my SM420 at this point. A T18 seems like such a better fit in the chassis. No worries about the 1310 front yoke and you can even run a normal diameter front driveshaft for the most part. The SM420 reverse bulge is still going to be in the way even with a longer adapter. This thing sits so low even the nose on the starter is an issue for driveshaft clearance.

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