Rango.....1942 Willys MB

[Metcalf]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...highlight=soni

That has some of the most current pics. If you need any info on it let me know. I still have the original article on it somewhere...

[jeepdreamer]

Oh.... Thank you SIR!!! Every time I see that thing I get a smile! And I haven't seen most of those pics even from the magazine article way back in the early 90s? You got more? Crack addict likey!

[Metcalf]

I just ordered my motor mount crossmember and motor mounts from Speedway.
Shipping was a little bit much at $30 for base UPS.



http://www.speedwaymotors.com/V6-Bui...ount,3272.html

I probably could have built something but I decided this would make things go faster and easier.
I'm fairly sure that the tube is going to be over the top of the front frame rails. This should make it pretty easy to make a little weld on bracket that slides over the tube and sits on the top of the frame rail. That bracket will then weld to the top of the frame.

I am hoping that I can use the welding table to set the engine/trans/t-case in the frame and shim everything up to the location I want then build in the front and rear mounts.

The engine is basically getting raised about 3" from where it was, shifted 1-1.5" forward for bellhousing clearance, and set at 1.25" offset to the drivers side from centerline.

I'm thinking for the D18 mount I am going to do a removeable crossmember BEHIND the D18 with a single bushing that mounts to the PTO cover plate bolts. Then for torque reaction I am going to use the factory torque arm bushing on the front D18 output section. Any ideas what to use for a bushing at each location?

Any other mounting ideas for the engine, transmission, t-case?

[Metcalf]

Oh.... Thank you SIR!!! Every time I see that thing I get a smile! And I haven't seen most of those pics even from the magazine article way back in the early 90s? You got more? Crack addict likey!

Its one of the coolest for sure. I can't wait till mine is done I hope it will be close to that cool!

I will have to dig around and see if I can find the original magazine article.

[Metcalf]

I started working on the rear bumper tonight. It seems little stuff like this takes a little more time....

I measured the rear crossmember and rear bumper a few times...like a dozen! Between the measurements from the frame and body I think I got a fairly accurate set of numbers for the rear bumper/crossmember.

Rear crossmember.
-The outside mount pair is 48" wide
-The inside mount pair is 16.5" wide
-The mounts are mirrored side to side as far as I can tell.
-In order to get the rear of the bumper/crossmember flush or just a hair past the mounts need to be at 1.125" from the rear surface of the bumper

I spent some time getting the rear mounts level again so I could try and find how much the rear crossmember drops from the top of the rear frame kick-up. So far it looks like the crossmember will have a 1.875-2" drop. I will probably measure that a few more times....

Here is the start of the rear crossmember....



Its a section of 2x4 box just like the frame. I laid out all the holes with some spray blue, scribed all the lines for locations, center punched and then drilled all the holes. I used holes a touch over .375 for 3/8-16 bolts with 9/16 heads.



The inboard mounting holes presented a problem since they are in the middle of the bumper and access would have been pretty hard no matter what. I really want the frame to be sealed when its finished. The tapered cuts on the end are going to get some simple strap caps that leave the outer mounting bolt exposed. I decided to make a little sleeve that integrated a mounting bung. I need to be able to weld up both sides so just a sleeve inserted from the bottom wouldn't work. I made two of these little bushings in the lathe really quick out of some 1" bar stock to fit into some 1" tubing I had in the scrap bin. The tubing was JUST big enough that I can insert a socket up the tube to get at the bolt head or nut.



I welded the inserts in the tubing and then turned down the bead on the lathe, faced the end, and put on a taper for welding.



I drilled both sides of the bumper with a 1" hole saw for the tube to pass through. This was a pain. I need to get some better clamps for my mini drill press. I ended up doing them with a hand drill in the vise standing on the table....



They will sit in the tubing like this. I might need to make a little jig to hold the top flush for welding and square up the bottom. Once they are welded I will sand them flush on the top.

That's it for now, more later....

[jeepdreamer]

No big surprise but its looking great sir! (We've come to expect greatness from you) heehee!
Not to muddy your thread but I wanted to give you some motivation. I was heading into work this morning (Grafenwoehr Germany) and about wrecked pulling into the parking lot. Sitting there quietly near the Post office was this! I managed a handful of poor cell phone shots and ended up late. I managed to trac the guy down during lunch and talked to him. Its a '49 and his father bought it in '53. Everything original too! So when your done with yours and have made it amazing it can be handed down through the family for generations!

[Metcalf]

Not to much stuff tonight.....

I welded in the tube sleeve things in the rear crossmember/bumper.....



Weld, flap disc, weld in hole, flap disc, chamfer hole....

I then test fit the rear bumper on the tub to make sure the holes lined up.



IT FITS! It went together pretty well. Some of the tabs need to be straightened out a bit but it all came together.

I REALLY need to buy a better camera....taking pictures in the shop is annoying me with the low light.

Finally I measured up most of the other body mounts that I need to build. I have four that are 1.5" offset, two that are 1.125" offset, and one small crossmember that needs to be 23.875" wide mounting holes and spread the entire frame ( still need to get a height on that one too! ). The last crossmember in the rear section is the 'machine gun' crossmember. I still don't really know what I want to do for that one....

[reece146]

The last crossmember in the rear section is the 'machine gun' crossmember. I still don't really know what I want to do for that one....

IIRC it has a really funky shape...

Maybe just cut it out and add something that will actually strengthen the frame? I forget if there is anything else in the same space that might interfere. With that x-member out of the way is there enough space to do some kind of under floor storage? More fuel? Sorry, been a while since I've looked over a flattie.

I tripped over the YJ frame a bunch of times today while working on other stuff. You'd think I'd remember to weigh it...

[jeepdreamer]

The last crossmember in the rear section is the 'machine gun' crossmember. I still don't really know what I want to do for that one....[/QUOTE]

maybe mount one of these?

[Metcalf]

IIRC it has a really funky shape...

Maybe just cut it out and add something that will actually strengthen the frame? I forget if there is anything else in the same space that might interfere. With that x-member out of the way is there enough space to do some kind of under floor storage? More fuel? Sorry, been a while since I've looked over a flattie.

I tripped over the YJ frame a bunch of times today while working on other stuff. You'd think I'd remember to weigh it...

I basically need to add something to take its place. I am thinking I might use a section of 1.5 or 1.75" tube and tuck it in the area where the rear floor makes it first step. Then have a plate for the body to sit on in the middle like stock. If I did it right that tube could have the rear shocks mounted to the ends. The interface to the frame could be pretty easy.

I also need to add a small crossmember to take the place of the 2 body mounting bolts where the K-member attached to the frame ( about at the axle level ). I think I can do that with some small channel or box tubing.

I will probably be mounting a small air tank under the rear floor. Some day I will probably build a nice aluminum fuel tank to fit under the rear floor, but things are REALLY tight with the low suspension and shifted axle position.