Rango.....1942 Willys MB

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Just saw that issue at the local B&N over the weekend and wondered if that was you.....congrats!!

Todd Z.

Thank you very much. Those pictures for the article where just over a year old now. That was RIGHT when I got the new transmission and transfer case installed but before I had the 5.38s and done all the prep for the 2000 mile trip.

The little guy is still evolving all the time. I just got done with an engine refresh and total cooling system rebuild.
There will be more coming soon as I might have to prep for the 2014 Utlimate Adveture that 4wheel&Off-road puts on every year :)

http://www.fourwheeler.com/ultimate...4-ultimate-adventure-the-final-12-applicants/

If I don't get accepted into that I will be going back to my original plan of driving to the Rubicon and back this June.
 

jscusmcvet

Explorer
Just got caught up on your thread. Really enjoy your build and ideas, for simplicity without being so married to "how it was" that you are using what will work best for your purpose. Thanks for a good review on the engine rebuild. Way beyond what I will ever likely do, but fascinating to see it broken down.

John
 

locrwln

Expedition Leader
Great job on catching us all up. Hope the minor issues are easily fixable. Still a great little rig and you do some amazing work. The overflow/catch bottle is brilliant.

Jack
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Just got caught up on your thread. Really enjoy your build and ideas, for simplicity without being so married to "how it was" that you are using what will work best for your purpose. Thanks for a good review on the engine rebuild. Way beyond what I will ever likely do, but fascinating to see it broken down.

John

Thank you very much. I tried to go over some of the engine stuff but really I don't have the patience to document it all. Honestly if the chassis wouldn't have been built to use the old 225 I would have changed it out for something more modern. I'd really like to build another one with one of the new 4.3 marine based longblocks that are pretty affordable now. The engines are NEW not remaned, 220+hp, good heads, roller cam, roller rockers, etc. They are designed to run all day at extended rpm's.


Any chance of making it to Moab this year?

I'm heading over the 17th-20th of April for the last part of EJS.


Great job on catching us all up. Hope the minor issues are easily fixable. Still a great little rig and you do some amazing work. The overflow/catch bottle is brilliant.

Jack

Thank you very much. I like re-purposing stuff like the overflow bottle. I've been trying to bring up the detail work on my fab lately.....just basically taking a little more time and investing in a few more tools ( or making them! ).
 

skibum315

Explorer
Thanks for the updates ... I'd been wondering what happened with this build. I'll second those that said it's one of the more interesting threads to read ... I know how much time it takes to document the detail you've put into this level of build, so thanks for taking the time.
 

G Beasley

sawzall surgeon
So I spent most of todays rain shower mandated down time reading this thread , and the whole time I kept thinking to myself why does this look so familiar ? I thought maybe I had seen it in the Durango area when I was working , or even in Moab but I just couldnt place it until I saw the cover of JP while I was in the "office". And whats on the next page of this thread ? The same cover , congrats on making the cover of JP thats a nice and well deserved honor . Hands down this is my favorite build thread I have ever read , keep up the good work .
 

bishopdunn

Observer
I stretched mine eight inches just behind the curve and did the same with your frame design. This will let my 6'2" frame sit comfortably without messing the line of the Willys up too bad. Just a little shorter than a CJ6.
 

VanIsle_Greg

I think I need a bigger truck!
Looking awesome... still one of my fav flat fenders out there.

Congrats on the mag cover shot and writeup, just downloaded my copy the other day to read!
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Moab EJS roadtrip report....

I drove the little guy over to Moab for a long weekend, wheeled it a bit, and drove it back home. My hope was that the new engine would get through its break in miles on the trip.....

The only odd thing that happened was the day before my trip my Wideband gauge decided to give up the ghost. It flat would not turn on? It is only 2 years old and I am not impressed at all. Innovate issued an RMA for it but there is a $45 service charge to look at it? What the heck. I am very tempted to just replace it with an Autometer unit. They have always taken care of me very well.

Anyways, somewhere during the weekend my rings finally decided to finally get fully seated and I picked up about 3" of idle vacuum. With the larger cam I am pretty happy to be at 16-17" of vacuum at idle.

The new engine seems to like 3000rpm a LOT more than the old one! There is definitely a sweet spot about 3000-3100rpm which was what I was hoping for with the new cam. That engine speed allows me to travel 55-60 on the highway now with no big issues. I let the engine run up to 3500rpm on some downhills and that seemed ok, but that would be about 67mph and it felt fast than I wanted to go really.

I have been trying to not give it full throttle till the rings broke in all the way, but I have run it up to 4000rpm a few times. It seems to pull nice and strong to that point. There is more power out of this new engine for sure.

Low end trail performance seems to be the same as before, maybe even a little better. I did have the float level reset itself at one point on the trail? I am thinking the only real mechanical thing that can do that is a fuel pressure change. I should probably add a fuel pressure regulator. Once I bummed a quarter ( Thanks Tim ) and reset the float level all was back to normal.

Mileage for the trip was 17.3 on the way down with the fresh engine and 17.6 on the way home, uphill, once the engine was broken in a bit more. I am WAY happy with that for highway mileage, no overdrive, pushing a 35" tire. The vacuum on the highway is about 12" running down the road at 3000rpm. This should be fully off the power valve and on the main jets only. I had to guess on jetting. I ran 47s down to the bottom of the big hill north of Montecello. Then I changed to 49s for the week in moab. Once back in Montecello I switched back to 48s for the rest of the way home. Mileage was just fine. I could probably drop back to 47s but decided to play it a little safer since I didn't have the wide band with the new engine.

Cooling system. The new system seems to be working really well on the highway. Temps are staying 180-200 on the highway and it doesn't seem to matter if I am going up any hills or not. I pulled the hill going up to Montecello at 3000rpm fully on the power valve and it never got over 200F.

On the trail the cooling system runs between 180-210. Depending on vehicle speed the system goes up to about 210 before the high speed of the fan kicks on, it runs for a bit, the temp drops back to 180, and then the cycle starts over.

My only complaint is that my fan has a vibration on the high speed setting. It is annoying enough that I may look for another unit. Low speed is just about silent if the vehicle is running, high speed you can hear and feel the vibration.

I also REALLY need to fix my rear main seal again. Anyone got any tips for doing that in the vehicle. I think the seal itself is good, I think the side seals and mating surfaces are leaking. I do NOT want to pull the engine again.

And in another installment of 'How short is it'



H1 hummer? I think they are about the same height.....
 

locrwln

Expedition Leader
Awesome update and great mileage.

Did you try "offsetting" the two halves of the rear main seal? I know that some people suggest off setting the two splits slightly from the main caps and using a little rtv (I use the "Right Stuff") on the ends to help seal against the leaks. The thought is to mis-align all of the splits much like you do with a piston ring and for the same reasons (only not as drastic).

I just did that with my Jeep (typical 4.0 RMS leak). So far I have 100ish miles on it and no leaks or seeping so far. I have a slight road trip out through the desert this coming weekend to break in the gears, so we will see how it goes after a couple of hundred more miles on it.

Jack
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Awesome update and great mileage.

Did you try "offsetting" the two halves of the rear main seal? I know that some people suggest off setting the two splits slightly from the main caps and using a little rtv (I use the "Right Stuff") on the ends to help seal against the leaks. The thought is to mis-align all of the splits much like you do with a piston ring and for the same reasons (only not as drastic).

I just did that with my Jeep (typical 4.0 RMS leak). So far I have 100ish miles on it and no leaks or seeping so far. I have a slight road trip out through the desert this coming weekend to break in the gears, so we will see how it goes after a couple of hundred more miles on it.

Jack

I will try that when I have it apart again. Thanks for the tip.
 

shortbus4x4

Expedition Leader
Awesome update and great mileage.

Did you try "offsetting" the two halves of the rear main seal? I know that some people suggest off setting the two splits slightly from the main caps and using a little rtv (I use the "Right Stuff") on the ends to help seal against the leaks. The thought is to mis-align all of the splits much like you do with a piston ring and for the same reasons (only not as drastic).

I just did that with my Jeep (typical 4.0 RMS leak). So far I have 100ish miles on it and no leaks or seeping so far. I have a slight road trip out through the desert this coming weekend to break in the gears, so we will see how it goes after a couple of hundred more miles on it.

This and also make sure you have the seal installed the correct direction, both halves of it. You should be able to do it without pulling the engine as long as you can get the pan off. Also use some good RTV on the bearing cap, just because a little bit is good doesn't mean a lot is better either when it comes to RTV on your seal halves and bearing cap.
 

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