Adventure Bicycle retrofit?

Dale

Adventurer
My wife and I are planning on cycling from Pittsburgh, PA to Washington, DC along the Allegheny Passage, hauling our own gear. We both have older mountain bikes and road bikes from the '90s.
Of course the mountain bike is designed to be strong and nimble in the woods and the road bike is built for speed. I purchased cyclocross tires for the road bike but they didn't fit so I am trying to retrofit both mountainbikes for long multi-day travel? I have yet found any worthwhile literature (books or websites) on this subject and the local bike store adrenelline junkies are no help. Thanks for any insight you can provide.
 

chris_the_wrench

Fixer & Builder of Things
Dale,

Your road bike most likely will be able to handle a 700 x 25c tire, possibly a 28c. I would then put something like a 26 x 1.5 on the mtb. I've done a fair amount of touring and setting people up for touring, so if you have any specific questions drop me a note.

-Chris
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
Nothing "wrong" with using older bicycles to go touring!
I learned the "hard" way... therefore here is what I would see as a must:
puncture prove tires (Schwalbe Marathons)
waterproof panniers (Ortlieb)
a good quality 4 season tent (storm and rain proof)
wheels and hubs that can handle the weight!

Anything else, like clothing and camping gear can be improvised... to a point LOL

Enjoy!
 

Christophe Noel

Expedition Leader
Much of this is relative to the amount of gear you'll be hauling. If you anticipate your loads being on the larger side, fitting panniers to a traditional road bike can be a challenge. At any rate, I bet Bike Mech would agree, the more specific you can be about your current bikes, your anticpated loads, and the nature of the trip, the more specific the we can be with suggestions.

Just off the cuff, this might be one of those perfect scenarios for a B.O.B. trailer. Just a thought.
 

alexfm

Explorer
I've been considering the same thing, as I have an early 90's Trek MTB that Im looking to build into a touring bike. It handles a lot better on the road than my FR suspension bike. :snorkel: My plans so far are:

Slightly less aggressive tires
Front and Rear Racks
Seat Bag
Third Bottle Cage (maybe)

Its a heck of a bike, and I put about 400 miles ( nearly all road miles) on it last year, so I know its up for the task. I just have a hard time splitting money between this bike, upgrading my FR bike, and add ons for my Jeep. :Sombrero:

Sorry for the hijack, just sharing my 2¢.
 

spacer

Observer
Most road bikes are a bit narrow in the stays for aggressive tires. The frames to look for are cyclocross and touring bikes. Probably for your purposes, the rigid mountain bike with inverted tread tires would work as well as anything. I used to use such a setup for an urban assault bike. Tough, inexpensive (as decent bikes go), and I could take it on a gravel road if I wanted without having to worry whether the tires were right.

I like old road bikes, but the racing models are pretty specific in their design. I wouldn't hesitate to use 'em for light touring (credit card or vehicle supported), but prefer something more suitable for self-contained touring.
 

dieselcruiserhead

16 Years on ExPo. Whoa!!
This is a very cheap and easy to find from the 90s that is steel, very simple, super reliable, and beefy as hell but with heavy duty 700c wheels. I own one of these in our fleet for me it is hands down the clear choice of what I would take for any distance riding. It also has all of the mounts in the right place and the positioning in general is very comfortable. The best part was mine was about $25 at a thrift store just a few years ago. Mine has graduated to cruiser and local hauler from the grocery store, etc...

Here is a pic of one from the Internet:

4051990248_6dc6f90d5a_b.jpg


The only drawback of this bike is its slightly heavy, and it needs a seat and some handlebar changes, but these are all minimal...

Here are the tires I run. It can hang on groomed trails but can also hang on the pavement and are remarkably fast particularly with higher inflation. They are a fat 700c tire but not quite at 29er levels.
http://www.bicyclebuys.com/tires/TiresRoad/0608152

It also has a great gear set which is huge for heavy loads and anything mildly steep, way lower than anything you'd find on a roadie, but still a very fast fast as well...

I hope it helps...
 
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96discoXD

Adventurer
I'm building a hybrid touring bike myself utilizing an old Trek 820 steel frame, the first MTB I owned. I could have bought a decent touring bike for what I'll end up putting into this one but this has sentimental value since it was my first MTB and second bike I ever bought. My first was a lugged columbus tubed road bike that I still own and ride.

I'm only using the frame and rigid fork, both have been powdercoated and dropped off at the LBS today to have the headset/races faced and installed.

For a bit of background the bike frame is approximately 21-22" and I'm about 6'3" and weigh around 235 although I'm intending to really hit the training and drop to about 205-210 by mid-summer.

I'll be using it mostly as a training alternative to my other lugged road bike and also as a backcountry explorer for two tracks and gravel forest roads mixed with asphalt where I don't need my 26er or 29er for the terrain.

I'll be building the bike up with the following components:

Easton 46cm ergo road bars
Easton 6-degree 120mm stem
Cane Creek brake levers (linear brake compatible)
Shimano 8-speed bar end shifters
Cinelli tan cork wrap for bars
Avid linear pull brakes front and rear
Shimano UN54 68mmx127mm square taper bottom bracket
Shimano RSX triple road crank 175mm arms (had laying around)
Vuelta Zero Lite wheelset 26" (two sets)
IIRC Smoothie 26x1.25 for asphalt (handle up to 95psi)
Nashbar no-name semi slicks for gravel roads or more aggressive tires I have laying around.
SRAM 8-speed 11-28 cassette for street
Shimano XT 11-30 cassette for gravel or more heavily laden touring
Shimano R453 triple front derailleur
Shimano LX MTB rear derailleur
Pletscher front rack from Rivendell Bike Works
Delta rear rack
Full front and rear fenders (don't recall the brand at the moment)

Still deciding on some other small details, but I expect that this bike will be a better touring bike than my road bike, slightly more comfortable geometry, beefier hubs and components, and far more flexible in terms of use just by swapping wheelsets and/or tires depending on the intended mission.
 
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Dale

Adventurer
Thanks for all of the info. I'll post some pics and more details soon.
BTW, Panniers seem a bit expensive especially since I have to buy two sets. I have several Seal line waterprof bags, have any of you seen a homemade rack to support these?
 

96discoXD

Adventurer
I've not seen anything specific for using bags like that without panniers. I think it could be done if you know someone that can TIG aluminum tubing/rod so you can keep the weight down.

I've purchased a trunk and panniers from nashbar, they were very inexpensive but it seems like a crapshoot whether they'll hold up or not.

I don't plan on using them alot so I figured I would take a chance on them.
The panniers are smaller so I'll probably end up using them on the front rack if needed and get some better/larger panniers for my rear rack.
 
S

Squatchout

Guest
I've done a bit of bike touring both on and off road(rail trail). I'm also an ex bike mechanic. All of my bikes are '80s-90's vintage. One plus to that is they are not the theft magnets of newer stuff.

Most modern early '90s on road bikes here in the US are very sport (Race) oriented unless you have a true touring or hybrid bike. Not enough clearance for tires in the frame or brakes. Also they are short and get squirrely with a load.

For touring you need comfort and durability and the ability to haul gear. Everything else is fluff. Older mountain bikes with triple chain rings and 7 speed rear cogs are very durable and give you the low gears for climbing hills with weight. Make no mistake on a loaded bike you will be going up like a Semi truck. Slowly in a low gear.

I suggest a 1.5 to 1.75 tire for mixed road and light trail use. Talc (baby powder) the inside of the tires and the outside of the tubes so they seat perfectly. It's nice inside your shorts as well to keep down chafing.
Make sure your rim strips are in good shape with no spokes protruding.
Get your bike well tuned and make sure your wheels are tight and true.
Carry chain lube and spare tubes and a patch kit. Also just a few tools and some way to inflate your tires more that once. Pump, several quick fills.

Front racks should be low rider style to keep the weight as low as possible. The lower the weight the better the bike will handle.

I like a sprung seat like a Brooks Champion flyer. Pure luxury!
http://www.wallbike.com/brooks/saddles/brooks-champion-flyer-special-saddle
That site sells a good bit of nice touring gear.

You want a handlebar that gives you mutiple positions.
I like old school Grab-On brand grips or maxi pads. They don't move when glued on and are cushy and grip well in the rain.

Make sure you have good heel clearance on your rear paniers and that the racks are designed to hold the weight you put on them.

Upgrade your brake pads to some good sftermarket pads like kool stops or Aztecs if you are usings '90s vintage MTB brakes.

A little bit of reflective tape goes a long way for safety while climbing slowly on busy roads.

Hope this helps some. Remember your not racing on a loaded tour. Enjoy the ride. Be comfortable.
 

kmacafee

Adventurer
Expedition Bicycle

As a shop owner and experienced bike tourist, there are a few things to consider. Older bikes with freewheels might be durable but replacement parts, especially 7 speed freewheels, will be hard to find on the road. You'd be better off getting a new rear wheel built with a 9 speed cassette.

We do a lot of old bike retro fits in the shop. In many cases, the owners spend almost as much as they would buying a used Surly Long Haul Trucker with modern components. A new one, equipped with racks and bags would cost less than $1500 retail, less used or on sale.
 

96discoXD

Adventurer
As a shop owner and experienced bike tourist, there are a few things to consider. Older bikes with freewheels might be durable but replacement parts, especially 7 speed freewheels, will be hard to find on the road. You'd be better off getting a new rear wheel built with a 9 speed cassette.

We do a lot of old bike retro fits in the shop. In many cases, the owners spend almost as much as they would buying a used Surly Long Haul Trucker with modern components. A new one, equipped with racks and bags would cost less than $1500 retail, less used or on sale.

Good point on the cost of building versus buying. I am building mine only because I will have the freedom to tailor it to my specific desire and intended usage, and because I prefer the resiliency and ride of steel to aluminum for a touring bike that will potentially see some gravel road/two track use as well.

I'm running an 8-speed cassette on both wheelsets for my touring project, mainly because I had them laying on the shelf as well as a pair of shimano 8-speed bar end shifters. I do agree on jumping to a 9-speed if purchasing all the components. I just purchased a shimano 9-speed cassette for my 29er with a 36-tooth large cog on the back that would be killer on a laden touring bike in hilly country, you could probably do away with the need to run a triple crank altogether with that setup.
 
S

Squatchout

Guest
Good point on parts availiblity. Part of my post was for the OP who already has a bike that could be used for what is not a super long tour. Firm believer in using what you have if it works. Especially in tight times for reasonable length trips. Not really advocating freewheels though I own some still and like them. The current cog #s wars to sell new product drives me crazy. Offer something new each week to make the old stuff obsolete. Bikes are getting as bad as electronics. Lot of mountain bikers I know are complaining about how fragile and expensive the new stuff is. Several are seeking out older parts. More cogs + narrower and potentially weaker chains and possible wheel dish issues. Whatever you choose to ride have a great trip! Sure beats watching someone else do it on TV!
 

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