how in depth is it to convert to 4x4?

bldeagle10

Explorer
Body off the frame:
First, disassemble the front clip (grille, core support, inner/outer fenders and all) this will get you to just having to worry about lifting the cabin area portion of the body. Easiest way to do it is a four post lift (if you are lucky enough to have access to one!). Of course, you have to disconnect everything that runs between the body and the frame (unbolt all body mounts, steering and transmission linkages, all the wiring needs disconnected, etc).

I can tell you exactly how I would think to do the removal but, I have never done it so, it would be theoretical! :coffeedrink:

I am sure somebody here has so, they'll chime in!

If your frame is in good shape, I would be very tempted to just pull it out and modify it. After all, most of the drivetrain that'd be ideal under a Burb never came under one anyway!!! :sombrero:
thank you good sir, i havent really looked at the frame but if i can i was thinking of just adding plating to it to strengthen it the whole length, kinda like how you strengthen the unibody/frame on an xj cherokee. im going to try and make everything as bulletproof as i can without going over the top so when i start ill have a ton of questions about how thick i should go with any steel i use to fab up mounts and such.

EDIT: there's one other thing I forgot to add to the list of things you need- a steering box area frame re-inforcement weld on patch! The frames of fullsize GMs like to tear apart at the steering box, so add a weld on frame patch! ORD and many others make them, I got my frame patch and box brace from ORD.

Buy another one that's a 4x4 and swap bodies woudl be the easiest way to convert it to 4wd..

And.. If you're gonna beef up the rear to D60, don't whimp out on the front with a D44.. Put a D60 up front as well.. A D44 won't hold up very long on something that big if it gets wheeled any.. Personally.. GM 14 bolt with a 10.5" ring gear in the rear, D60 (9 3/4" ring gear) up front..

i was turning over the 10bff/d60 idea but i wasnt sure. i was thinking the d44 would do the job but i guess you have a point. i dont want something that does the job, i want something that makes it seem like the "job" really isnt a job at all!
 

jdinevens

Adventurer
correct me if i'm wrong but lets pretend that you'd want something like this:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27847

4x4 burb w/ a ctd 12v/ nv4500/np205/60/14ff and 4 inches lift

the only thing in addition to what you would do to add those items is put on shackles/hangers for the front suspension and probably have to modify the transmission tunnel on the burb a little bit for the MT because you'd have to:

-replace the engine crossmember for the diesel
-all the issues between engine/tranny/TC could be solved by buying the correct versions with the correct input/output shafts
-rework spring perches from cucv axles(60/14ff) to burb
-crossover steering would be done anyway

reason i'm asking is that 2wd 2500 burbs seem to be more common and generally are less likely to be abused because they are highway queens

i'm probably forgetting something, let me know.....

edit: you'd need driveshafts obviously, could be pulled from any 4x4 chevy truck from that period right?
 

87GMCJimmy

Adventurer
correct me if i'm wrong but lets pretend that you'd want something like this:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27847

4x4 burb w/ a ctd 12v/ nv4500/np205/60/14ff and 4 inches lift

the only thing in addition to what you would do to add those items is put on shackles/hangers for the front suspension and probably have to modify the transmission tunnel on the burb a little bit for the MT because you'd have to:

-replace the engine crossmember for the diesel
-all the issues between engine/tranny/TC could be solved by buying the correct versions with the correct input/output shafts
-rework spring perches from cucv axles(60/14ff) to burb
-crossover steering would be done anyway

reason i'm asking is that 2wd 2500 burbs seem to be more common and generally are less likely to be abused because they are highway queens

i'm probably forgetting something, let me know.....

edit: you'd need driveshafts obviously, could be pulled from any 4x4 chevy truck from that period right?

DING! DING! DING!!!

Exactly what I am saying!!! Why bother going to the expense of buying a 4wd Burb when it still doesn't have the best stuff under it! Plus, he already has the 2wd Burb (unless I read his posts wrong???). He'd be throwing away his money! Might as well just assemble the exact drivetrain he wants and throw it under his existing Burb, instead of spending money to buy a drivetrain that is gonna eventually get swapped out later down the road. Do it right=do it once!!!

Heck, here's an example from my junk: my Jimmy started as a 4x4 already and now has none of the original drivetrain remaining other then the stock TBI and its computer! :ylsmoke:

On the driveshafts- that would depend on what he decides to run drivetrain wise, what size lift he wants (driveshaft angles) and what u-joint sizes he wants to run. He could, if he plans accordingly, run some standard GM shafts.
 
Last edited:

bldeagle10

Explorer
my over all plan is to run a 6.0 from a 2000 yukon may turbo for fuel economy. i know for what i plan on doing a diesel would be better. id like a cummins but i know nothing about diesel motors. and i can get a 6.0 dirt cheap. debating between 4-6" of lift. my uncles burban has 6" of lift i havent seen it in a few years so when i get a chance im going to take a look and see if its something id want, i may end up choosing 4-5" to keep the COG lower. tires would be 35-37's im guessing depending on lift. so 4.56 gears? i kind of want a manual transmission. as far as tranny and tcase ill need to do some research. the extent of my off road experience revolves around my cherokee so my knowledge is limited to the 4.0/aw4/np231/c8.25/hp d30 combo.

just looked. im thinking 6" is good for me. maybe a 4" lift and 2" body lift to avoid having to re-tunnel the body to clear for 4x4
 
Last edited:

bftank

Explorer
the longer brakelines of your 2wd in the front will work on the d44 or 10b front as extended brake lines.

if you are going the 6.0 route, the nv4500 manual would be a good choice coupled with the np241 for the lower gears. 4.56 gears are a good choice.

for the 35-37" tires unless you are planning on serious rock crawling with it the d44 will be much cheaper and more effective than the dana 60.

the front diy4x b52 swap is a good idea, the 52" rear gm springs will give you a 4" lift and be really flexible, combine these with good shocks and you are golden.

for the shackle flip i wouldn't do more than a 2" and then use the 6" shackle to get four inches of lift.

and your trans tunnel issues can be resolve without a body lift. a 4wd bolt on transmission cover will fit on a 2wd trans hump. holes need to be drilled for the bolts to go through the floor pan and the 2wd tranny hump needs cut out while leaving a lip for the 4wd cover to be bolted to.

i wouldn't do a 6" suspension lift for what you are trying to do. just trim the fenders
 
Last edited:

bldeagle10

Explorer
thank you sir! i will have to take a look at that in the morning. alot on my little mind. literally just had my dream girl present herself to me pretty much on a silver platter and i had to decline due to moral objections...sounds like a good time to go work on cleaning up the burban...
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,908
Messages
2,879,441
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top