M101A2 Expo camping trailer

Diesel YJ

Observer
I have had some difficultly locating any info on anyone using this trailer as a expo trailer or any camping trailer but others have converted the military generator trailer and the older 416 series trailers which are very popular. Here is my project and I would like to hear any suggestions or ideas the community here has to offer.

The goal: To free up space in my tow vehicle for my significant other and the 2yr old and I am sure will be a dog down the road. So with that said the camping gear and anything else either needs to be roof rack mounted or in the trailer. I am in the process of converting and building my 1983 Grand Wagoneer for long term excursion duties only but in the mean time my 2000 WJ will be filling in.

Rig: 2000 WJ, I6, 223K miles, 4'' RC Lift, 32'' MTR's.

Trailer: 1990 surplus M101A2

I just purchased a ARE aluminum contractors utility cap. I drove a 100 miles with the M101 to get it and put it on top and drove back at normal speeds with it through the mountains of western MD (I know they are small but its what we have here) and with high winds, I was surprised at how well it towed in all conditions and with little effort. 10 years Army so far but towing with a WJ vs HMMWV is like night and day.

The utility cap has 4 individual locking compartments on the outside that are hydro lift doors for easy access to what will be a kitchen area (stove, sink, ect) and not sure with the rest of it yet. It has a ladder rack on the top and dual barn doors at the rear. The doors will need to be trimmed a little to fit the trailer depth and the trailer modified to fill the open space at the tail gate but other wise a near perfect fit.

I will be adding a RTT to the top of this utility cap after I build a boxed cage to tie the trailer to the cap and provide a heavy duty frame to attach the RTT. I just don't think the aluminum ladder rack is up the the task of the weight. Anyone think this will be too tall? the cap is 36'' above the lip of the trailer and all other weight will be at the base of the trailer which is already kinda heavy, so I don't anticipate any issues yet. There will also be a fuel and water storage tanks mounted to the floor of the trailer (later on for long travel capability).

Other items to be installed propane stove and tank, dual optima top batteries (already have and not used) with solar recharge capability. LED lighting inside trailer, cabinets and roof top parameter lighting. Ect, ect, ect, I have been reading up on here and other sites and you all are a great wealth of knowledge and experience that is giving me so many ideas to tap.

Thanks for reading and sorry I will get some pictures up soon and will update as I progress through this build. The plan is to go to the Grand Tetons later this year and pass through Yellowstone. I am so use to backpacking and going so very light that with the extra distance, longer camping duration and not wanting to go for supplies all the time and with extra people and a child I needed to rethink my space and equipment, hope this works.
 

shogun

Adventurer
One of the reasons you see less about the (US) 101 is it is a little too much trailer for small jeeps and pickups. The 416 is light and very nimble, easy for tight trails, and very tough. Keep in mind that usually mil trailers gross out before they bulk out, thus they tend to be overloaded easily. The conservative load ratings are due to the off-road nature of the beast (axles and frames are overbuilt compared to road trailers).

I would not use it for off-road towing with a jeep or light pickup. There are those who will disagree, but they may have something invested in their opinions. I have both 416 and (US) 101. Other than transit (empty) I wont use the 101 for lengthy off-road.

Upgrade the springs by adding a leaf to increase load, but it doesnt really change rating due to axle/bearings/tires/wheels/frame. I have overloaded the 101 to 4000 lb, but that is on highway, nearly stopping for turns or tracks, it is about 1" from the bumps. Niagra Military Parts is your go-to guy for parts.

I would be careful to stay within the rated load on anything but highway driving, and your vehicle is gonna hate you. Too much trailer.
 

Diesel YJ

Observer
Very good points and your right it is a larger trailer but not bad behind even my WJ now this is not via trails has I haven't done anything with it yet in that aspect. The primary vehicle that I am building this for is a full size 83 grand Wagoneer with a 6BT and 1ton axles so it should handle much more weight then my WJ. I am also considering converting the military axle to a lighter civilian version with electric braking and remove the hydro brake system from the trailer. The trailer is also only very slightly wider then my WJ and I haven't measure it to my Wagoneer yet but its either the same or smaller.
 

Diesel YJ

Observer
Wow, I thought there would have been more comments on this either crazy or cool idea or something. I will get some pics up this weekend and see where the project goes.
 

JPK

Explorer
I own an M101A1 and an M101A2. I like 'em!

I pull with with either a Suburban or a Hemi JKU and you forget they're back there.

Big trailer for tight trails, but plenty of room and capacity for a camping trailer. I almost went aluminum cap and over head ladder rack for a rtt on my M101A2 but decided on a tear drop trailer in the end.

BTW, I'm from MD and I think the M101 would be fine trailer for where I've seen that we can oull a camping trailer in the MD parks and forests.

JPK
 

96XJ0507

New member
I have a m101A2 that I am cutting down, re-axling, and welding back up for an expedition type trailer. I found about 240lbs of weight can be removed by cutting out the bed bracing and welding the bed directly to the trailer. Also by removing the hydraulic brakes and jack leg.

Here is where mine sits right now, waiting on an axle, wheels, and some tubing to fab up rock slider/brush deflectors before putting the box on and finishing it up.

I'm also planning to weigh the axle and brake/hub components to see what I'm saving with a new axle.
 

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Diesel YJ

Observer
Awesome guys, I was talking with my GF's father who has been the master of camper motor homes for years and he thinks he might have a light and better axle for my trailer. I have thinking the last few days about removing the hydro brake system for an electric brake setup. He also thinks I should go to 6 lugs over the 8 it has now. I have no real preference but with the plan for 1 ton axles on the tow vehicle (once fully built) I would think my only real option is 8 lug but I guess I can change them over or rethink my axle options. I have also been thinking of cutting the trailer to either reduce weight and or lower teh center of gravity and lower the over all height.

JPK where in MD are you? I am am Thurmont but always in Frederick or Reisterstown as well.
 

96XJ0507

New member
Depending on what you are pulling it with and where should dictate what you do to it. I would have left mine alone if pulling it with a tahoe or truck, but for a jeep up narrow canyons I wanted something small enough to go there.

I ordered 4" LED lights and now am thinking they may be a little big. We'll see when they show up this week.
 

TerryD

Adventurer
The trailer sounds like a good idea to me. You'd be taking it off to ride any real trails anyways.

As for the 6lug vs 8 lug, depending on tire size, you may want to consider having the trailer's wheels/tires match your Wagoneer's. Gives you an extra spare if the Waggy and trailer both carry one spare (or two on the trailer) and could be handy. I have considered a trailer to carry my camping gear as both of our off-road SUV's are two doors. Having 3 kids EATS space in them when we go somewhere and carrying my tools, spare tires, and general truck spares takes alot of space. A trailer I could just leave stuff like the tent and camping grill and chairs in would be nice. I'd probably have it match the tire size and lug count of the K5 since it will be going the more extreme places.

Just a thought. :coffee:
 

96XJ0507

New member
The trailer sounds like a good idea to me. You'd be taking it off to ride any real trails anyways.

As for the 6lug vs 8 lug, depending on tire size, you may want to consider having the trailer's wheels/tires match your Wagoneer's. Gives you an extra spare if the Waggy and trailer both carry one spare (or two on the trailer) and could be handy. I have considered a trailer to carry my camping gear as both of our off-road SUV's are two doors. Having 3 kids EATS space in them when we go somewhere and carrying my tools, spare tires, and general truck spares takes alot of space. A trailer I could just leave stuff like the tent and camping grill and chairs in would be nice. I'd probably have it match the tire size and lug count of the K5 since it will be going the more extreme places.

Just a thought. :coffee:

x2

Also, make sure if you do this that you get the same back-spacing for the trailer wheels as for your tow vehicle.
 

JPK

Explorer
Awesome guys, I was talking with my GF's father who has been the master of camper motor homes for years and he thinks he might have a light and better axle for my trailer. I have thinking the last few days about removing the hydro brake system for an electric brake setup. He also thinks I should go to 6 lugs over the 8 it has now. I have no real preference but with the plan for 1 ton axles on the tow vehicle (once fully built) I would think my only real option is 8 lug but I guess I can change them over or rethink my axle options. I have also been thinking of cutting the trailer to either reduce weight and or lower teh center of gravity and lower the over all height.

JPK where in MD are you? I am am Thurmont but always in Frederick or Reisterstown as well.

I live in Chevy Chase and get up toward Thurmont once in a while to fish or to Fredrick to shoot.

If you go straight axle then you'll drop the bed height. The M101A2 has the dropped axle to accomodate the 37" Humevee tires. Of course if you still have the humvee wheels and tires, smaller tires will drop the bed height too. I would stick to eight lug hubs to have the option of matching wheels and tires to the Wagoneer with the one tons.

I think I have a couple of eight lug wheels and tires off my M101A2. I replaced them with original hummer wheels and tires which had gone missing. You're welcome to them if they'll do you good (and if they're still in the warehouse.)

JPK
 

96XJ0507

New member
I live in Chevy Chase and get up toward Thurmont once in a while to fish or to Fredrick to shoot.

If you go straight axle then you'll drop the bed height. The M101A2 has the dropped axle to accomodate the 37" Humevee tires. Of course if you still have the humvee wheels and tires, smaller tires will drop the bed height too. I would stick to eight lug hubs to have the option of matching wheels and tires to the Wagoneer with the one tons.

I think I have a couple of eight lug wheels and tires off my M101A2. I replaced them with original hummer wheels and tires which had gone missing. You're welcome to them if they'll do you good (and if they're still in the warehouse.)

JPK

Not quite, M101A2's have 33" wheels I think they are 265x75-16.5 if I remember correctly. M101A3's have 37" wheels and look huge next to an M101A2. M101A3's also have a slightly wider bed between the wheel wells than the older A2 and A1. The A2 will also likely have a more reinforced bed over the A1, not sure about the A3.

Also, A2's have a straight axle, A3's have what amounts to a straight axle that raises inside of the spring mounts to give an extra 3-4" of clearance down the center without raising the trailer. A1's and A2's have a traditional straight axle so putting larger tires on an A2 will give the same look as the A3, just not as much clearance.
 

JPK

Explorer
Not quite, M101A2's have 33" wheels I think they are 265x75-16.5 if I remember correctly. M101A3's have 37" wheels and look huge next to an M101A2. M101A3's also have a slightly wider bed between the wheel wells than the older A2 and A1. The A2 will also likely have a more reinforced bed over the A1, not sure about the A3.

Also, A2's have a straight axle, A3's have what amounts to a straight axle that raises inside of the spring mounts to give an extra 3-4" of clearance down the center without raising the trailer. A1's and A2's have a traditional straight axle so putting larger tires on an A2 will give the same look as the A3, just not as much clearance.

Thats funny; I have a trailer sitting in my yard that has the M101A2 plate on it, the drop axle and the same frame as the thirty or so year older M101A1. Moreover, every A2 that I have seen has the drop axle. though I may have seen photos of some with what appear to be straight axle, and quite a few come from the military with the 37x12.5x16.5 humvee tires and the bead lock rims on them. Mine did, the dealer who sold it too me told me they took them off and sold them seperately; they also had another A2 for sale still with the 37" tires and beadlocks, but it had a deposit on it when I called.

You're right about the spring mounts, and, thinking of it, changing the axle wouldn't drop the bed height.

Every M101A3 I have seen has the drop axle, but also the wider exterior steel wheel well "flares." As I undersatnd, the only differnces from A1 to A3 are landing pad/brake/lunette asembly, axle, tires and width of the steel wheel well flares; diiference from my A2 as it came from the militery to A3 are wheel well flare width only. From the spec sheets I have found on line, bed dimmensions are the same for A1-3, no difference between the wheel wells in the bed. Do you have an M101A3 to measure? IIRC the measurement is ~45 1/2" on my A1 and A2. The between the wheel well spacing on the A1 and A2 is as wide as the frame allows; the interior of the well, when looking at it from underneath, is flush with the outside of the frame. For the A3 to have more space between the wells in the bed the frame would have to be wider, and I don't believe it is.

The relative size between my M101A1 and A2 is similar. Of course the dimensions are the same, the only significant differences are the brake/landing leg and the tires, with the M101A1 having 34"x9"x16.5" military tires on 5 bolt bud two piece rims on it and the A2 having the 37"x12.5"x16.6 Goodyear MT DOT approved military tires on first generation humvee 8 bolt bead lock rims - the stud pattern being eight bolt but the bead lock also being eight bolt instead of the later twelve bolt. The tire difference leads to a ~1.5" height difference. Even with 33" tires in liue of the A1's 34" tires the height difference with the 37's would only be 2".

Is it possible that you are confusing the M1101 with the M101A1-3's? The M1101 is the successor to the M101 and specifically designed to be towed by the humvee, though the bed is aluminum the weight is greater, the length is longer and the width is significantly wider. They do look huge next to the M101's.

JPK
 
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96XJ0507

New member
no, when I picked up my 2- m101a2's there was an m101a3 parked next to them and it has the 37" tires. At first I thought it was a M105 just by the height difference until I checked the plate on it and a couple others like it at the DRMO yard.

Both of my A2's have the 16.5" rims with 33" tires with a straight axle. The best that I can tell is that the A2's have Surge brakes and later A2's got a more reinforced cargo bed with corner lift points.

If you have A2's with the 37" wheels on them, chances are they were changed out before the sale or by a motor pool with only 37's to throw on.

I don't have an A3 to measure, but every site I came across when deciding whether to get an A2 or A3 mentioned that they were just over 48" between the wheel wells.
 

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